I have an H22 swap 95 Civic Ex Coupe and I have a no crank issue that I have diagnosed to be an ignition switch fault, But I am too broke to afford a new one for the next 9 days. I depend on this car for daily use, BUT...
I do have plans for RHD conversion and I do have an EG6 clip that I have torn down already, I attempted to install the full lock cylinder/ig switch assembly from the clip but the collar on the JDM switch is about 1/4" too small, but all the plugs and wiring match.
My question is does anyone know if Id have an issue installing the full steering column assembly from the clip into my LHD EJ1?
ps I can deal with the turn signals/wiper switch being reversed for the time being.

 

The collar is too small due to your LHD having SRS while the RHD EG6 didn't. I don't know why but SRS columns in North America are different. I know this because in Canada we also got non-SRS and I've seen the different sizes. So, yes you can swap the steering columns, no I don't know if it's going to interfere with the SRS setup somehow. I don't frankly see how it would, but Honda doesn't engineer things for extra $ for no reason. Typically.

Also you can swap over the LHD turn signal and wiper assembly too, so it all works properly and you basically have a permanent solution.

 

Thank you for answering. My SRS reel has been broken for years anyways. Now with the JDM column that just has a shoehorn my horn should work now?

 

Anybody know if the jdm column will be plug and play as far as the horn? My SRS is broken anyways.

 

What steering wheel do you have? Just the stock SRS one? Shoehorn only works with 3-spoke OEM steering wheel, which is non-SRS. Aftermarket non-SRS wheels use the shoehorn too.

 

Not in a LHD configuration...

 

My EG6 clip came with a 3 spoke OEM non SRS wheel actually. What can I do to have my horn working after installation of JDM column and wheel?

 

Basically do i need to tap into a certain wire in my chassis to have a functioning horn?

 

Plug the cables in the back side of the LHD turn/wiper stalk holder part, then use the shoehorn prong thingy from the JDM RHD turn/wiper stalk holder part and put it on the LHD one (I don't think they're different from RHD to LHD??) A pic of the one you have would be handy. There's a DIY on this site of how to do it, pretty much, but it uses a shoehorn prong from a 4th Gen Civic.

Oh wait, yes I forgot. There's a BLU/RED wire that goes into the SRS wiring for the horn, that goes up to the cable reel. THIS is the wire you need to extend up to your light switch. Extend it from under the dash before it turns into the grey wire and connect it to the light switch / turn signal stalk. On the bottom side of the stalk you'll see where the horn prong plugs in on it. You are lucky as you can compare to the JDM setup before you pull it all apart.

 

Thank you Deschlong,
I will most definitely be doing this this weekend. In the meantime, since roll starting my car solo is a massive pain in the ***, ive been trying to "hot wire" it. I have the key turned to run to avoid the column lock and i keep touching a pair of pliers to the White battery wire and the black/white starter wire but the starter just clicks once, same as trying to start it normally. I have 12.5v at the battery wire so I dont understand why the starter isnt turning over.
like i said previously the ig switch is the issue it only shows 7 or sometimes 10v at the black/white starter wire when i turn the key. Also sometimes i get lucky and itll start normally right after Ive been driving and sometimes not.
do i need to use a thick gauge wire or something when trying to jump the battery wire to starter wire? Or am i doing it wrong completely?

 

Might it be the starter? You've definitely eliminated it as the problem? Give it a few whacks.
Does the car start every time with the JDM ignition setup? (Can you even use it without it being mounted?)

 

I tried hooking up the jdm ig switch and had the same results. All contact points good except starter wire only showing 10v when turning the key. The starter itself is only 2 days old. It just clicks even when I apply power directly to the solenoid terminal so I am exchanging it. Man I hope this solves this problem. The part thats worrying is that both ig switches only show 10v when turning the key. Ive tested both repeatedly.

 

The previous starter was only in the car 3 or 4 years. Maybe this is a harness issue? Could a short in my engine bay charge harness keep killing starters?

 

Less harness, more "bad ground", possibly? Or bad connection at the battery due to corrosion? Clean the connections with one of these:

 

My battery is less than 1 y/o and the terminals are clean, i have these big solid copper terminal connecters as well and they are clean on the inside. My neg battery cable and 2 valve cover stud grounds are 2 gauge. I will check and clean all my grounds though. Its crazy how everytime I leave work it turns right over but then Ill drive home and immediately try to restart and get a click. I'll check my G101 ground and look up where all the others are.
this is probably unrelated but sometimes after driving and stopping at a red light it will idle super low at like 600 rpm. This only happens on hot days.

 

Maybe I can rule out the ig switch? Of course when I left work she fired right up and once i got home I tried starting again and she turned over full strength, so i grabbed my multimeter and put it on the starter wire on the ig switch and turned the key and she turned over again full strength but showed the same 10.5V from all the times it clicks. I tried starting once more and saw 10.5V again but just got a click. I am exchanging the starter again today even though my gut says it isnt the problem. When I try jumping the solenoid terminal from the battery it jusy clicks but all I have lying around is 12g speaker wire ive tried 2 together side by side also the angle is too difficult to jump the 2 starter terminals with a screw driver on the H22 starter. I just get repeated clicks, but once i went straight from there and turned the key and it turned over.... Im totally lost here on what to do next. Do i need to start a new thread about this issue??

 

I watched a video on youtube and i was jumping the starter wrong. The spade terminal is what makes the gear jump out and that was the clicking noise i heard when applying power to it. The other terminal thats covered with a boot is what makes it spin. When i apply power to that it spins the starter gear. So starter is ruled out. My ig switch and the jdm one show 10.5v when I turn the key oddly but as I mentioned that is what it shows during times that the engine has started as well. My battery is good obviously, i tested it anyways though. This has to mean the problem is the wire in the harness to the starter engine bay side, Correct? I have tested the spade terminal where the black/white wire goes on the starter a few days ago and I was only getting 7v there but I wasn't sure if it was the solenoid being screwed up making it show that voltage. I replaced the starter. I dont have anyone around to turn the key for me to check the voltage at the spade terminal right now or since i replaced the starter.

somebody please help me here! I can't even sleep this is irritating me so much. Ive always been able to fix every problem this car has ever had on my own and this is making me feel retarded.

 

trace the power source if your fusebox is getting 10volts you need to know why.