Mechanic Work Quote
I've been going through the service history of my Civic for when my wife owned it, checking what was done as well as everything the mechanic suggested be fixed and wasn't. Out of the following are any of the below particularly difficult and that I may be better off having done by a mechanic? I'm a beginner when it comes to repairs and move slowly so don't want to end up with my car off the road for days on end ideally:
- Replace oil pan gasket
- Engine timing belt with water pump
- Engine valve cover gasket set
- Minor engine oil sweat (not really sure what a 'sweat' is and what I can do about this?)
- Rear trailing arm bushings bushings cracking
- Replace oil pan gasket
- Engine timing belt with water pump
- Engine valve cover gasket set
- Minor engine oil sweat (not really sure what a 'sweat' is and what I can do about this?)
- Rear trailing arm bushings bushings cracking
I've been going through the service history of my Civic for when my wife owned it, checking what was done as well as everything the mechanic suggested be fixed and wasn't. Out of the following are any of the below particularly difficult and that I may be better off having done by a mechanic? I'm a beginner when it comes to repairs and move slowly so don't want to end up with my car off the road for days on end ideally:
- Replace oil pan gasket
- Engine timing belt with water pump
- Engine valve cover gasket set
- Minor engine oil sweat (not really sure what a 'sweat' is and what I can do about this?)
- Rear trailing arm bushings bushings cracking
- Replace oil pan gasket
- Engine timing belt with water pump
- Engine valve cover gasket set
- Minor engine oil sweat (not really sure what a 'sweat' is and what I can do about this?)
- Rear trailing arm bushings bushings cracking
Go to a different mechanic.
See the link below for a discussion on what sweating might mean, and why, while probably improper usage in this case, it has a semi-reasonable explanation. Amazing what 30 seconds on Google can do for you.
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdv..._sweating_oil/
Oil pan gasket is pretty easy, though can be time consuming for your first time.
Timing belt/pump are not as fun, and the oil pan gasket is more easily done while this is done. Check out write-ups.
Valve cover gasket is cake, but since it has to come off to do the timing belt and pump (if you have the original belt covers), it may not be cost effective to do yourself.
Rear trailing arm bushings are a pain. There are write-ups, take a look and consider carefully. Do this regardless. When I had a shop replace a trailing arm bushing they installed it upside down, because no shop (in the states) seems to know or care about old Hondas anymore.
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdv..._sweating_oil/
Oil pan gasket is pretty easy, though can be time consuming for your first time.
Timing belt/pump are not as fun, and the oil pan gasket is more easily done while this is done. Check out write-ups.
Valve cover gasket is cake, but since it has to come off to do the timing belt and pump (if you have the original belt covers), it may not be cost effective to do yourself.
Rear trailing arm bushings are a pain. There are write-ups, take a look and consider carefully. Do this regardless. When I had a shop replace a trailing arm bushing they installed it upside down, because no shop (in the states) seems to know or care about old Hondas anymore.
I was able to torch my old RTA bushings out then used a hacksaw to cut the bushing collar off. I then used a big f***ing hammer and beat the new RTA bushings in. Keep in mind, if you haven't done any other bushings these cars are getting to the age where it might be cost-effective to buy a whole kit. I used the PIC/Sonem kit, but I'm not sure if they make them anymore. Hardrace is another good option. I'd stay away from Energy suspension if you have any hopes of daily driving/commuting.
Better option: Honda sells a special tool for the rear trailing arm bushings. Having that tool would have saved so much time. You also need to mark the angle the current bushing is installed at, and how far the bushing is seated.
Bonus: If you choose hard rubber, a panzy alignment tech might not want to align the car for you. I had a shop try to sell me a rear toe adjuster kit, with a $1k markup, citing alignment concerns. I took it home and toed both rear adjusters all the way in with a crowbar and had them try again. They never said a word.
Better option: Honda sells a special tool for the rear trailing arm bushings. Having that tool would have saved so much time. You also need to mark the angle the current bushing is installed at, and how far the bushing is seated.
Bonus: If you choose hard rubber, a panzy alignment tech might not want to align the car for you. I had a shop try to sell me a rear toe adjuster kit, with a $1k markup, citing alignment concerns. I took it home and toed both rear adjusters all the way in with a crowbar and had them try again. They never said a word.
. Amazing what 30 seconds on Google can do for you.
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdv..._sweating_oil/
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdv..._sweating_oil/
OP
The timing belt and all the others require special tools and knowledge to perform. Even with the knowledge, might not be cost effective to do them on your own, if you have to buy the tools.
The only feasible diy on that list is the valve cover gasket kit, but I don't imagine that's driving up the cost much, since it has to come off for the timing belt job.
The oil pan gasket is not hard either. Hard* being a relative term. Do you have means to raise the car and remove the manifold. And the means to break free rusted bolts?
I say get 2-3 quotes and go with the guy that makes you feel comfortable.
These are all long life items so it's not like you'l be doing these every year.
I would recommend if you are new to mechanics, make sure you have the right tools. For the oil pan gasket, you really need a torque wrench if you are going to do it right and expect no leaks. It certainly does not require a torque wrench but no leaks is the goal there. "Sweating" is a term used to describe fluids are are not actually drip-leaking but have slightly moved past the gasket seal - could be a hose or flat surface. In many cases, a retorque of the bolt/fastner will fix it. It is something to monitor for a more serious leak. The timing belt can be done but I would only recommend that to you if someone you know has done one.
Reality is these repairs would cost a good bit to have a professional mechanic do because they are mostly labor costs. So, take your time and jump in.
Reality is these repairs would cost a good bit to have a professional mechanic do because they are mostly labor costs. So, take your time and jump in.
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