I'm now finding my motor is 96 obd2 and I have obd2 ecu, but underdash harness my be obd1 and I know for sure fuse box inside is obd1. How much trouble am I into... please be honest not mean, I've a hard time for over a month with this beautiful girl but, some mechanics are just @$$holes and some are not understanding we can't all pay a $90hr shop fee.
also think Custer is obd2. Not sure how to check that.

 

What year and make is the car/chassis?

If you have a OBD1 chassis or pre 96 year, to install a OBD2 engine and ECU is very straight forward all you need is a few conversion harness, you will need a OBD2 to OBD1 ecu conversion harness there dirt cheap online and for the engine its self I believe you need another conversion harness to connect the OBD2 engine harness to the OBD1 shock tower harness. As long as you have the correct engine harness for the engine your using and the correct ECU for that engine which it sounds like you do, you should be golden. Research on google on OBD2 swap in OBD1 chassis you will find everything you need don't use hondatech search engine its confusing.

 

It's a 94 DC2 all numbers match except engine and trans, but it's a b18c1 and 5th gear is 4k at 75mph ECU is P72 A02,

 

Engine harness is obd2 also... there is a plug for every sensor, they're still wrapped so I would guess not spliced.....bit inside fuse box is obd1
9

 

Left strut tower plugs pic will be first, right side after

 

This is just too pretty to let go...oh and I guess I forgot to mention I have an ITR ZFRONT CLIP waiting for all the mechanical stuff to be fixed

 

You should be able to swap in the engine and use all the OBD2 parts on the engine like alt, injectors and distributor, everything should plug right up the the shock tower plugs, if you use the obd2 gsr ecu use a conversion harness for that, other than that all you need to do is wire up the vtec from the vtec solenoid to the ecu but they sell harness for that to make it easier. Just research that part I never did that but theres tons of writes up online on how to wire the vtec when swapping in a Vtec engine in a non vtec chassis.

 

the Vtec works when its running right.... that's why I was wondering about the older fuse box... my door locks, windows, sunroof and little bell that says I left something on quit working and I replace the relay but it did not fix that problem.
I'm about to take the high flow cat off and while under there look at all the grounds you spoke of earlier in the other thread.

 

Someone put some time in on changing it over, but one wire in the wrong spot or a bare one touching metal can make all that time worthless...
I mean if the firewall didn't have the matching chassis # I'd swear they just put a 96 or newer front end on.

but mad props for your help and patience
keep on hondaing!

 

So im still confused, are you having performance issues other than the interior lights and electrical stuff not working? How does the engine run?

 

When I bought it the temp sensor was bad.... changed it it ran fine for a few weeks.. not fine it was freaking awesome! But then I took a trip about an hour away and I noticed it felt weird every once and a while.. thought maybe I got some crappy gas somewhere cause even 93 probably isnt always 93.. but then it started doing it just normal driving and it has progressively gotten worse.

ok get ready, I'm going to try to list everything I've put on it in the past 3 weeks...

new dizzy (complete)
map, knock, IAC, NGK laser iridium plugs and wires also have a set of platinum plugs. Timing belt and water pump of course. New lower motor mounts, all new hoses, fuel filter, fuel regulator, AEM fuel rail with remanufactured Honda injectors.(money quickly dwindling away) new diaphragm on other end of rail. I think that's it other than some suspension parts because of course they half assed that too.
and intake temp sensor, pretty much only sensor I haven't changed is the purge valve because as you can imagine I'm slightly frustrated and that thing is $230