got the notorious oil pump o-ring leak so i'll be going in to replace that
and other other seals while i'm in there. any hints/tips/tricks about the process?
ordered up the felpro gasket and am curious about the extra (plastic?) parts included.
anyone know what they are ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Oil-Pan-Gasket-Set-Fel-Pro-OS-30630-T/192176586840?epid=235398864&hash=item2cbe9e0058:g: OREAAOSw4RZbIJ6z:sc:USPSFirstClass!64029!US!-1

 

ok got the gasket today and it looks fab.
nice and rigid with a metal frame in the middle.
the upper gasket even has precise textured areas to apply
rtv to that will help to keep it in place.
the plastic pieces are called snap ups.
screw one into each corner thread and they compress to
allow you to push the gasket and pan into place
and then snap back to hold them up while you do the other bolts or nuts. genius!
looks like the hondahabit gasket has been bested, we'll see.
i'd still recommend their oil pan stud and nut kit.
the felpro rtv looks decent but i'm going with toyota rtv since folks rave about it
being the best.

 

they twos into the block and then you push oil pan into them they are holder pins just put that gasket on my b18b1

 

although it has good reviews the fel-pro gasket didn't work well for me.
they need to dump the squishy silicone that's used in the other craptastic gaskets.
got another hondahabit gasket and while a bit drippy they still win the day.
fwd to: fel-pro hq :lol:

 

 

Nothing beats a good o' GENUINE gasket from Honda. Gaskets, seals, and water pump are stuff I don't care for, aftermarket wise.

 

Unless the OE gasket has been updated since the 90's, the original parts are fairly crap especially when used with old pans. I replaced my B18C1 oil pan gasket 10 years ago at 270,000 miles, and some years later it started leaking again. I'm finally about to replace it again at 365,000 miles along with the car's 5th timing belt, water pump and tensioner pulley. I just got in a Fel-Pro Permadry gasket a few minutes ago. Quality looks excellent and the little plastic pins to aid installation are pure genius since I'll be doing it from under the car this time (engine was out last time).

 

I might have to look into one my self if I pull the pan for a turbo drain, although I have heard of people tapping there pans with the pan still attached to the car with little to no shavings inside using grease on the drill bit.

 

Don't do it! Just pull the pan off and make sure to clean it up after. You don't want any shavings in your oil pickup.

 

Right you are!

 

Yeah really, the rod bearings are like right there. A spun bearing right after a new turbo install would suck!

 

I'm used to putting hondabond in the area where the oil pump meets the block and just attaching the oil pan and gasket, locktite on nuts and bolts and torque to spec. The oem gasket has worked for me for many many yrs, no problems here. to each their own.