Noob.. need some help for a rather interesting issue
Hello everyone,
my my name is Brad. I am a noob to the Technical aspect of a Honda, but have owned a few in the past. I recently picked up a 2000 Honda Civic EX with 140,000 miles for a fairly cheap price. At around 5000 rpm I noticed that the car would hit what seemed like a rev limiter and had to lift my foot before it would shift.
I decided to hook an OBDII reader up to it to see what kind of codes I may have had. Upon checking I had a VTEC malfunction code. (Forget what the exact code was. I’ll look it up if it’s important) I decided to go check the vtec Solenoid and the wiring to it and what not. Well... upon checking I saw a plug dangling and no vtec solenoid was to be found.
Now im no expert, but I feel that this car likely had a VTEC engine from the factory and was likely swapped at some point in its life.
The car runs great and I could assume that there wouldn’t be much of an issue with running it the way it is, other than that lack of extra power and ability to go above 5000 rpm (correct me if I’m wrong).
Now I want to know a few things:
1. Could the rev limiter at 5000rpm be related to the VTEC malfunction and the ECU is just limiting it?
2. Could I just swap a VTEC head on the car and get it back that easily, or is a full engine swap required?
3. Assuming the 5000 rpm rev limiter is due to VTEC malfunction, is there anyway to trick the ECU into allowing my car to rev higher. Maybe jumping a wire on the plug or something (maybe that’s not recommended or potentially dangerous to the ECU or engine). Perhaps an ECU swap with a non vtec motor.
I sincerely thank you all for takin the time to review my concerns and look forward to our future communication!
-Brad-
my my name is Brad. I am a noob to the Technical aspect of a Honda, but have owned a few in the past. I recently picked up a 2000 Honda Civic EX with 140,000 miles for a fairly cheap price. At around 5000 rpm I noticed that the car would hit what seemed like a rev limiter and had to lift my foot before it would shift.
I decided to hook an OBDII reader up to it to see what kind of codes I may have had. Upon checking I had a VTEC malfunction code. (Forget what the exact code was. I’ll look it up if it’s important) I decided to go check the vtec Solenoid and the wiring to it and what not. Well... upon checking I saw a plug dangling and no vtec solenoid was to be found.
Now im no expert, but I feel that this car likely had a VTEC engine from the factory and was likely swapped at some point in its life.
The car runs great and I could assume that there wouldn’t be much of an issue with running it the way it is, other than that lack of extra power and ability to go above 5000 rpm (correct me if I’m wrong).
Now I want to know a few things:
1. Could the rev limiter at 5000rpm be related to the VTEC malfunction and the ECU is just limiting it?
2. Could I just swap a VTEC head on the car and get it back that easily, or is a full engine swap required?
3. Assuming the 5000 rpm rev limiter is due to VTEC malfunction, is there anyway to trick the ECU into allowing my car to rev higher. Maybe jumping a wire on the plug or something (maybe that’s not recommended or potentially dangerous to the ECU or engine). Perhaps an ECU swap with a non vtec motor.
I sincerely thank you all for takin the time to review my concerns and look forward to our future communication!
-Brad-
The ECU expects the VTEC to work when it tries to engage it. If it does not, a VTEC code is thrown-- and when any code is active, the ECU enters "limp mode" which imposes a rev limiter.
As you said, either swap to a non-VTEC ECU or a VTEC engine.
Also look for a knock sensor not hooked up above the alternator. I think only the VTEC engine had that. That is a difference in the block which complicates the idea of just switching the head.
As you said, either swap to a non-VTEC ECU or a VTEC engine.
Also look for a knock sensor not hooked up above the alternator. I think only the VTEC engine had that. That is a difference in the block which complicates the idea of just switching the head.
Get a DX trim ecu and call it a day. If you’re wanting to do any type of swapping it will cost you major $$$ as I’m assuming that you’d need to pay someone else to do the job.
just swapping the ecu is not an answer, op will need to convert to 3 wire iacv. if his car is auto, an ecu swap is out of the question, unless he sources a trans from a dx/lx
Am I missing something? What relation does the ecu have to an auto Trans besides the lockup function and shift point engagement?
indeed you are. tcu is integrated, y7 trans is different than y8, which is obviously different than the cvt on the y5. drivability issues abound when swapping ecu's on 96-00 a/t cars. 92-95 all used the same auto trans, and therefore didnt matter.
thank you for the insight. Indeed, my experience with automatic civics ended with the 92-95 series.
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op- check what block the car actually has in it. if its a y8, no problem to slap a head on and go. if it isnt, you have bigger issues, as the y8 ecu looks for a knock sensor which most other d series blocks do not have.
transmission has the same vin plate as the car.
you are stuck here. a swap to the correct ecu for the engine will make the auto transmission malfunction. if you need to pass any kind of emissions/inspection, you're equally screwed. not only is the car going to run poorly with the knock/vtec missing, but you're using 240cc injectors on an engine that only normally uses 190cc. your options to correct this are as follows: 1- find a d16y8 engine, swap it in. 2- find a dx/lx auto transmission of your rear range, swap it in, as well as the computer for said car. 3, and the best IMO- find any 92-95 manual transmission and convert to manual. doing this will allow you do accomplish two very important things. first being the ability to run the right computer for the engine, and second ditching the slushbox and making your car instantly 10 times more fun to drive.
if youre asking about swapping a vtec head onto a dx automatic and go race the answer is no.
if youre asking about swapping a vtec head onto a dx automatic, swap in ex ecu, and go race the answer is no.
if youre asking about swapping a vtec head onto a dx automatic, swap in ex ecu, swap in 2 wire iacv and go race the answer is no.
if youre asking about swapping a vtec head onto a dx automatic, swap in ex ecu, and go race the answer is no.
if youre asking about swapping a vtec head onto a dx automatic, swap in ex ecu, swap in 2 wire iacv and go race the answer is no.
Auto LX and auto EX both have a 3 wire IACV. It's only if you want to go to / from manual EX to non-VTEC or auto that the IACV is an issue. (unless you start talking HX, which is entirely different).
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