I made a video of what the car is doing now;

I've recently replaced the distributor, TPS and cleaned the throttle body and IACV out real well with carb cleaner. I've checked all vacuum lines probably 10 times but still can't figure this out. I really need some help.

Here's a complete run down of everything done to the car;
Motor
JDM H22 w/ LSD Transmission
Clutch Master Stage 3 Clutch and Flywheel
Innovative Motor Mounts
Innovative Alternator Relocator Bracket
OEM JDM H22 Type S Red Valve Cover
Billet Aluminum Spark Plug Cover
Chipped P28 ECU
B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge
Removed Power Steering
Unorthodox Racing Alternator and Crank Pulley
Optima Yellow Top Battery OPD51R
Battery relocated in trunk
Password JDM Reservoir Covers
OEM JDM ITR Oil Cap
Hondata Heat Shield Gasket
Spoon Magnetic Drain Plug
Yonaka Radiator
Mugen Thermostat
Mugen Fan Switch
MSD SCI Ignition Control, Blaster SS Coil, Black Super Conductive Wires, Modified Extreme Honda Cap, Rotor
Apexi World Sport Exhaust
AEM Cold Air Intake
AEM Dry Filter
AEM Fuel Rail
Forbidden Motorsports True Short Throw Shifter

Exterior
Nissan G35 Silverstone Paint
JDM Thin Mouldings
Shaved Antenna (replaced with interior antenna)
Shaved Trunk Key
JDM Style Fenders with Side Markers
Mugen WWRS Style Front Lip
Black Spoon Style Mirrors
DOHC VTEC stickers
JDM OEM Fog Lights
JDM Amber Corners
Seibon Carbon Fibre Hood
Window Tint
Black Muteki Open Ended Lug Nuts
Benen Tow Hooks

Interior
JDM Center Console
JDM ITR Shift Boot
JDM ITR Shift ****
Alarm System with Power Windows, Power Locks and Power Trunk
Alpine DVA-9861 Deck

Suspension
Tein Super Street Dampers with Pillowball Upper Mounts
205/45R-16 Bridgestone Potenza RE-01R
Motegi Traklite 1.0 Wheels
Eibach Anti-Roll Kit
Energy Suspension Black Bushing Kit
Skunk2 Lower Control Arms
Skunk2 Front Camber Kit
Aspec Subframe Reinforcement Brace
ITR 5 Bolt Brake Conversion
AEM High Performance Brake Pads
Mugen High Performance Front and Rear Brake Rotors
Mugen Micro-Mesh Brake Line Set
Brake Calipers Powder Coated Black

 

Opened the distributor and found this. Throwing Code 15. New distributor ordered.

 

I want to remove the MSD ignition and return to stock.

What all does that entail? Do you just cut the box out and plug and play a stock distributor? I've always had nothing but issues with this MSD setup but always been afraid to remove it because I don't know how or what I'm doing.

 

REMOVE the MSD stuff and put back the stock ignition parts. Honda ignitors are fine, if they are in good working condition.

BTW, you're not supposed to wire the ignition box inline with the stock ignitor coil wire. Don't ask me how I know. LOL

 

Is the stock ignition system just all in the distributor? I don't really know how this MSD is wired into the car but I'm being told that all I have to do is get a stock distributor, plug it in and go. I've always dealt with the MSD because everyone always made it seem like it's so much work to return to stock. I have a brand new stock TD-60U distributor on the way. I obviously have to get new spark plug wires as well because the current setup is the cap is male and the wires are female. Whereas, the stock setup is the cap is female and the wires are male. Is there anything else that needs to be done to return to stock? Is there a stock ignition box like the MSD? Or is that just all built into the stock distributor and all I have to do is plug in the 8-pin & 2 (or 4, I can't remember)-pin connectors into the wiring harness and I'm good? I really just want to put it back to stock because I'm almost positive that 90% of my ignition issues come from this MSD.

Thank you very much.

 

On my ex-gf's turbocharged Civic EG coupe, I installed a MSD 6AL in it along with the SS blaster coil. MSD doesn't mention anything NOT hooking up the stock ignitor. Once I removed the stock ignitor, it cranked right up without issue. 3 months later, the damn SS blaster coil died while we were stopped at a traffic light. Had the car towed home and removed all the MSD crap off, reverted back to stock. Started right up. Honestly, I wouldn't touch any of MSD stuff ever again, not even their spark plug wires. THEY ARE GARBAGE.

I can see the butt splice connector in the pic. Make sure you solder the wire back and cover with heatshrink tubing. Get some NGK spark plug wires. Always had great results with them.

From what I recall, JDM H22s are internal coils. Just double-check for the correct ignition spark plug wires.

 

I am a fan of the MSD SS Blaster external coil... I have used them personally for years without any issue. The advantage is simply to remove some HEAT from inside of the distributor housing. I do agree with NVturbo when it comes to using a MSD 6 box of any type... they are completely un-necessary and have a history of failure. Why do you think NASCAR cars had TWO of them in every car ???

 

I got the stock ignition to work with the car and it starts up fine with the MSD completely removed from the car. However, the car is still running very sluggish and rich. Any sort of part-throttle and it drives pretty wonky but if you put your foot into it, WOT is fairly smooth. I'm thinking I gotta have a vacuum leak somewhere but I cannot find it for the life of me.

Before all this happened, I would take the vacuum line off the MAP sensor and the car would basically idle and run like how it is running now. Well now, when you take that vacuum line on and off the nipple on the throttle body, the car doesn't change at all. Maybe a bad MAP sensor? Maybe O2 sensor? Dead injector?

 

No codes but when I jump the plug to read codes it gives me 5 & 7. MAP & TPS.

 

I cannot see your MAP sensor from your pic/video. I do see the vacuum line coming off the throttle body port/nipple and routing back toward the firewall and downward... and then it disappears. So, where is the MAP sensor mounted and what are the wire colors of the three wires in the plug that is plugged into the MAP sensor ??? Same for the TPS... wires colors and is it set correctly ???