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P72 would only be beneficial to you if you wanted to retrofit a knock sensor. A P28 or any VTEC converted ECU would work fine.
Use OBD1 distributor and alternator with appropriate adapters or re-pinning.

 

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P28 or P72 makes no difference once it's chipped, with the exception of P28 not offering knock sensor or intake air bypass control (which is never used anyway).

 

hmm, it's good you are refreshing the block. Some of the things listed for the engine, won't make any extra power. If you have a pretty much stock B16A, adding type R cams don't really make any more power. A type R intake manifold will actually lose power up until 7000rpm, then make maybe a couple extra hp after that to red line.Type R springs and retainers are pretty much the same thing as what the stock B16 comes with. A larger throttle body also doesn't add more than 1 or two hp.

Perhaps things about investing your money in other area's that would be more effective. Personally, i would source out a B18C bottom end for bigger CC, that would make more power all the way across the board.

 

He says he's using CTR pistons, so it's nowhere close to a stock B16A any more.

Type R style intake will not lose that much power down low.

ITR has dual valve springs with different tolerances than B16, which almost every trim of that engine has single valve springs. Along with the cams it will be a well suited upgrade.

IMO his engine build makes perfect sense and will yield good results for an OEM rebuilt 1.6L.

 

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I know youre trying to keep it era correct, but use modern injectors. The Bosch EV14 injectors like sold by Injector nation, deatschwerks, injector dynamics, etc. are going to give you better fuel economy and a better idle quality than any old disk injector.

 

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Should be Hondata S300 v1, I had it on my EM1 up until earlier this year (sold the car) and Hondatas current software had no issues working with it & neither did my tuner. Of course it doesn't have as many features as v3 (bluetooth, ethanol content, etc...) it stills works just fine and I didn't have to run any additional controllers or sensors, other than a wideband O2. I can't remember which ECU it was in, I do remember it didn't have a board for the knock sensor, but we just turned that off in the tune.

They can be converted to be a vtec ecu, however I am not knowledgeable enough to know if yours has been converted or not.

 

That ECU has been VTEC converted. The big mosfet (IC14) that is sort of bent downward, is what switches the VTEC solenoid.

So you are good to go. That setup will run your car well. The only reason you would want a newer version of the s300 would be to datalog additional sensors, or to support digital flex fuel sensors and serial wideband input. Other than that they work the same.

 

 

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My old old set up was a b16a2 with 12:1 (might have been a bit higher, its been awhile) with skunk2 pro 2 cams, appropriate bolts ons, etc...on 91 octane and my tuner had no issues what so ever tuning it and it made decent power for what it was. The build that replaced it was the same bottom end with a top end refresh skunk2 tuner 2 cams, skunk2 ultra street intake & a 70mm TB, etc... tuned on 93 octane and we made more power throughout the powerband and once again not a single issue tuning.

If you have a good tuner they shouldn't have too many issues getting your set up dialed in, I just provided my tuner with everything he requested, injector dead times, set my fuel pressure where he wanted, etc...Every tuner is a bit different.

From what I remember the tune file is based off of the smanager software (what is actually used to tune, datalog, etc...) version, not the S300 version in the ecu itself. As long as you have a copy of the latest version of your tune file you shouldn't have any issues, however there may be some more info on Hondatas website about that.

 

As long as you have the tune saved on a laptop with the latest version of Smanager, and before uploading it to the new Hondata you have the firmware up to date, it should be good to go. The problem lies in trying to download the calibration from Hondata if you don't already have the tune saved elsewhere. This is what I ran into, and I ended up at square 1 with my tune because of a dying V1.

Hondata calibrations do not do well being uploaded and downloaded between different versions of the software on different ecu's.

 

1989 Civic Si

I have two of these.

 

I got one too, white but needs paint badly... its neat to see what it might look like once its freshened up

 

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