K-swap costs
so ive found a k24 with gearbox, linkages, cables and driveshafts, and k series to dc2 engine mounts.
what else would I have to spend money on to make this happen?
Im planning to sell my original motor and box of course (b18c7)
what else would I have to spend money on to make this happen?
Im planning to sell my original motor and box of course (b18c7)
It's probably double your estimate.
If you have a stock gear box, shifter cables, and shifter... that stuff is trash. No LSD, those cables stretch, and the stock plastic box is garbage. I would replace all those items, plus a kpro, wiring harness, upgraded axles, mounts, intake, header, exhaust fab, tune, fuel lines, cooling, etc... It just snow ***** to do it right. I would figure 10,000 usd easy. And that isn't even cracking into the block to make real power. I'm sure you can get by on some stock components but that stuff is junk and in my opinion the hack way to go about it. ITR deserves better. I'm in the middle of my kswap build and I'll be atleast 15k deep when I'm done and that isn't even going extreme with ITB's or FI.
If you have a stock gear box, shifter cables, and shifter... that stuff is trash. No LSD, those cables stretch, and the stock plastic box is garbage. I would replace all those items, plus a kpro, wiring harness, upgraded axles, mounts, intake, header, exhaust fab, tune, fuel lines, cooling, etc... It just snow ***** to do it right. I would figure 10,000 usd easy. And that isn't even cracking into the block to make real power. I'm sure you can get by on some stock components but that stuff is junk and in my opinion the hack way to go about it. ITR deserves better. I'm in the middle of my kswap build and I'll be atleast 15k deep when I'm done and that isn't even going extreme with ITB's or FI.
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That had an extremely wide range of prices depending ion budget, purpose of the car, and power output desired. Few people rebuild OEM if nothing is wrong. If you want more power, you will certainly spend less than even a budget k-swap, especially if doing this yourself
What he said. :-)
Before it was over, my '00 ITR #110 had a DC5 ITR motor in it, great tune, LSD, modified gearbox and shifter, and a list of things that is so long I cannot even remember.
Yet, every once in a while on the track, I'd find myself thinking that the original B18 was a little more fun, typically.
In the right hands, my ITR would easily turn H1 times...but the owner (me) was not having all that much fun driving it.
Be careful!
Before it was over, my '00 ITR #110 had a DC5 ITR motor in it, great tune, LSD, modified gearbox and shifter, and a list of things that is so long I cannot even remember.
Yet, every once in a while on the track, I'd find myself thinking that the original B18 was a little more fun, typically.
In the right hands, my ITR would easily turn H1 times...but the owner (me) was not having all that much fun driving it.
Be careful!
That's not very good video, but that 's what the car sounded like fully tuned. You'll do better with a full exhaust, even if you're on the track all the time. The valves seem to need a tiny bit of back pressure to give you what you want.
What he said. :-)
Before it was over, my '00 ITR #110 had a DC5 ITR motor in it, great tune, LSD, modified gearbox and shifter, and a list of things that is so long I cannot even remember.
Yet, every once in a while on the track, I'd find myself thinking that the original B18 was a little more fun, typically.
In the right hands, my ITR would easily turn H1 times...but the owner (me) was not having all that much fun driving it.
Be careful!
Before it was over, my '00 ITR #110 had a DC5 ITR motor in it, great tune, LSD, modified gearbox and shifter, and a list of things that is so long I cannot even remember.
Yet, every once in a while on the track, I'd find myself thinking that the original B18 was a little more fun, typically.
In the right hands, my ITR would easily turn H1 times...but the owner (me) was not having all that much fun driving it.
Be careful!
Even the harmonics, although similar, just don't sound the same. It's like Going to your favorite restaurant that created an entirely new dining menu, w/ a the new chef . Sure, the building is the same, you may get your food faster, even though it's slightly more expensive, but the sights and smells, and customer base are completely different, and give you a different experience that you may not actually like.
When it comes to the "fun factor" , too many people put an emphasis on more power and torque, and create a correlation that more power = more fun. Yes, or CAN be that way, but not always.. Just because of the fact that it has more power than the other , doesn't mean that it's necessarily a better car to drive.
You compensate with the suspension and your driving techniques.
But one things leads to another, leads to another, leads to another....
Before you know it, you need aerodynamics, a very expensive racing suspension, and R comp tyres that do not last more than one season of sprint sessions. You begin to turn lap times that cause concern, and before you know it the interior's stripped and you've got a full cage with NASCAR bars.
:-)
You're pulling high G in the corners even when you're sliding, and it's all going to end up being quite a hand full if you're not careful!
The stress on you physically is going to be more than you're anticipating, I guarantee you, if you go all the way with this.
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