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Whatever its for i broke it the idiot i am i thought it was the drain plug for the transmission. Anyway i use a breaker bar to get it open big mistake.It ripped the side off and yes transmission fluid leaks like crazy from the funnel to the ground. Here a picture of what im talking about whats that plug for and can i seal it for good with jb weld or something similar check out the streaks
Lol it almost look factory atleast that what i thought at first
Can't see that well but that does't look like the transmission drain plug, or a drain plug at all. I think the drain plug is right above that. Also, JB weld sounds like a temporary fix for that issue. Maybe remove your casing and have it actually welded back on? Or a new casing?
I was wondering whats that plug for the one i circled now i know where the fill hole and correct drain plug is now .But still there another plug where a socket wrench go in same way the drain plug do. I'm curios whats that for that's the one i broke trying to unscrew it.See the image yeah that's a line running always though where it broke in two the plug is whats holding it in place. See the rectangular part down at the bottom that's where i was losing lines of fluid bu i got some jb weld on iy for now And thank you for your reply
On the manual transmission, the other plug is for access to open a snap ring inside to take the transmission apart. The case will not come apart before releasing the snap ring, so it has to be reached from outside.
Thank you mk378 for answering my question and you too mr.rubixx but a new casing sounds expensive i might weld it later on in the future.But now i have a new problem with the used motor i just put in it runs like crap its like it gets too much air acceleration is sluggish in first and second gear it just crawlsi didn't even bother to try third fourth and fifth but reverse speed is fine and the cooling fans wont come and i tested them with 12 volts and they work so there good and i already tried another temp sensor.no luck.So for now i just jump the temp sensor plug to keep the fan running..Temp sensor i guess that the right name the sensor on the thermostat housing that's the one im talking about.Ok now for another question ok the replacement engine i got is a d15b7 from a 94 civic now the original engine i had was a 93 d15b7 Both engines look identical except the 94 d15b7 has a map sensor on the throttle body and my original one had it map sensor near the firewall close to the fuel filter..they both work but the the one nest to the firewall seem to be better..But i wonder if i replace the whole intake manifold with my old one would that make a huge difference im thinking it wouldn't because right now it runs fine but drive like crap and my fans aren't working someone said maybe it need my old intake manifold with all its sensors
JB Weld is actually the best epoxy to use on cast aluminum. It's exactly what JB Weld original was designed for, cast aluminum and cast iron. The transmission case is cast aluminum.
The biggest concern is that the area and parts being epoxied are perfectly clean and with cast, don't sand as it's already perfectly rough at the break for the epoxy to have maximum hold strength.
The downside is if you epoxied the snap ring access screw plug..... That transmission isn't ever coming apart again without breaking the case at that plug.
JB Weld is actually the best epoxy to use on cast aluminum. It's exactly what JB Weld original was designed for, cast aluminum and cast iron. The transmission case is cast aluminum.
The biggest concern is that the area and parts being epoxied are perfectly clean and with cast, don't sand as it's already perfectly rough at the break for the epoxy to have maximum hold strength.
The downside is if you epoxied the snap ring access screw plug..... That transmission isn't ever coming apart again without breaking the case at that plug.
Thanks tomcat39 for your reply Yeah that jb weld is working pretty great and im still not having any leaks. But the snap ring plug is still ok i still can tighten it or loosening it so im thinking im pretty safe
As far as the MAP sensor goes just unplug the connector from the one mounted on the firewall and plug it into the one on the throttle body, both work the same but the firewall mounted map isn't doing anything without a vacuum line to the throttle body.
As far as the transmission goes, get a case, it's a small bearing D-series DX/LX transmission, they're worth next to nothing, especially if there's something wrong with it. The snap ring that holds the countershaft up goes where that crack is, that's not going to stay together with JB weld
As far as the MAP sensor goes just unplug the connector from the one mounted on the firewall and plug it into the one on the throttle body, both work the same but the firewall mounted map isn't doing anything without a vacuum line to the throttle body.
As far as the transmission goes, get a case, it's a small bearing D-series DX/LX transmission, they're worth next to nothing, especially if there's something wrong with it. The snap ring that holds the countershaft up goes where that crack is, that's not going to stay together with JB weld
What do you mean by snap ring that holds the countershaft wont hold with jb weld there's no jb weld inside just the outer casing. And as far as leaks I drove around for a little bit with no problems until i found out my clutch was burnt.I just don't see how applying jb weld to the outside casing can effect the inside.
Just fo to the junkyard and grab another transmission. Take it home and gut ot. Transfer your gears over and be worry free. Or run as it is and still be concern about it. Whether it will break again down the road, at the worse time like being far away from home. Then it WILL be an expensive repair. Your choice.
The transmission is cracked right where the snap ring goes. JB weld is fine in an area where there is no force applied to the case, but there's a lot of force applied to that particular area of the case when driving. Chances are that's going to let the countershaft move around a bit inside the case when the JB weld lets go (which wont take long) when the happens the gears will pile up destroying themselves in the process. You can buy complete transmissions for these things for basically nothing if there's something wrong with them. Even if there isn't they still aren't worth much.
The transmission is cracked right where the snap ring goes. JB weld is fine in an area where there is no force applied to the case, but there's a lot of force applied to that particular area of the case when driving. Chances are that's going to let the countershaft move around a bit inside the case when the JB weld lets go (which wont take long) when the happens the gears will pile up destroying themselves in the process. You can buy complete transmissions for these things for basically nothing if there's something wrong with them. Even if there isn't they still aren't worth much.
Good point, totally forgot that is a shaft bearing pocket....... Way to much force for mere epoxy.
That's messed up lol i just got the motor and it runs fine and now i hear the transmissions no good and jb weld wont work I wonder how long would it last if i drove anyway to work and back about 15 minutes to and from. lol i got to get the money to get a another transmission first. I just wonder how long would it last.and when is the danger most expected when shifting gears or is it how fast your going ? And can it be professionally welded back on ? Once again thanks for the help guy's
Thanks tomcat but im going to see if its possible to get this welded if not ill run it as is if the tranny go up ill just junk the car and get another..Because where im from its 3 to 4 hundred for a tranny and even higher on ebay and to me its not worth it.
what is this drain plug for
the idiot i am i thought it was the drain plug for the transmission. Anyway i use a breaker bar to get it open big mistake.It ripped the side off and yes transmission fluid leaks like crazy from the funnel to the ground. Here a picture of what im talking about whats that plug for and can i seal it for good with jb weld or something similar check out the streaks 
