1999 Accord v6, p1607, p0108, p0123, p0113,p1498 after cat stolen
So recently my catalytic converters was stolen and the o2 sensor was cut /ripped off at the wire. After replacing a new universal catalytic converter and new o2 sensor wire, the car starts and runs but throws 6-7 codes.
P1607 is for the ecu, and the rest of the codes are map, throttle position, coolant temp, intake temp sensor high circuit. It is also throwing a EGR sensor high circuit code and after getting the car up to operating temp it threw an Evap code.
So im guessing there could be a bad ground on the ecm, something in the wiring harness could have been damaged by the removal, or it’s just a bad ecm. I tried driving the car a bit to see if the codes would go away but they didn’t. When I clear the codes with a scanner they come back shortly. I’ve also tried disconnecting the battery terminal and pulling the ecm fuse which didn’t work. I didn’t notice a code from the o2 sensor itself which makes me think it could be a damaged harness but I don’t know what to check on it.
I don’t have much knowledge on electronics, so basically I am asking for input as to what to check on the wiring harness, or what pins to check on the ecm to see if that is the problem.
I appreciate any input you have to offer! Thank you.
P1607 is for the ecu, and the rest of the codes are map, throttle position, coolant temp, intake temp sensor high circuit. It is also throwing a EGR sensor high circuit code and after getting the car up to operating temp it threw an Evap code.
So im guessing there could be a bad ground on the ecm, something in the wiring harness could have been damaged by the removal, or it’s just a bad ecm. I tried driving the car a bit to see if the codes would go away but they didn’t. When I clear the codes with a scanner they come back shortly. I’ve also tried disconnecting the battery terminal and pulling the ecm fuse which didn’t work. I didn’t notice a code from the o2 sensor itself which makes me think it could be a damaged harness but I don’t know what to check on it.
I don’t have much knowledge on electronics, so basically I am asking for input as to what to check on the wiring harness, or what pins to check on the ecm to see if that is the problem.
I appreciate any input you have to offer! Thank you.
Checked all fuses in the car and they look good. It looks like all of rhe codes can be traced back to connector C on the ecm.
Now im just wondering what to test next, is it possible to open it up and visually inspecting for any faults?
Now im just wondering what to test next, is it possible to open it up and visually inspecting for any faults?
A visual inspection can't tell all that much. Have you measured the voltage that both side of the fuse and check wires for voltage or continuity between the fuse box and ECM/PCM?
After those, then you can always open up the ECMP/PCM and visually inspect for blown capacitors, burnt resistors, corrosion, etc.
After those, then you can always open up the ECMP/PCM and visually inspect for blown capacitors, burnt resistors, corrosion, etc.
I don’t have any previous experience with electrical so I haven’t done that. Do you have any references on how I would go about testing that? I visually inspected all fuses and also tested resistance with a multimeter and all the fuses seem to be fine.
When all of this started, it was a rainy day and I was driving the car without the catalytic converter and with the cut o2 sensor wire dangling. I’m assuming contact with the open wires caused a short, and the car completely died in the middle of the road. After that it would start but idle like **** and only run for a few seconds.
After the new cat was welded in, the car idles and drives, but it runs super rich and when I drove it around it would only shift at 3500 rpm.
Basically, I would assume if all fuses are good then the short must have fried the computer. If the only other place there could be an issue is in the wiring harness, how could I go about testing that, and would a short even cause a fault in the harness itself?
When all of this started, it was a rainy day and I was driving the car without the catalytic converter and with the cut o2 sensor wire dangling. I’m assuming contact with the open wires caused a short, and the car completely died in the middle of the road. After that it would start but idle like **** and only run for a few seconds.
After the new cat was welded in, the car idles and drives, but it runs super rich and when I drove it around it would only shift at 3500 rpm.
Basically, I would assume if all fuses are good then the short must have fried the computer. If the only other place there could be an issue is in the wiring harness, how could I go about testing that, and would a short even cause a fault in the harness itself?
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LSteggyguy
Honda Accord & Crosstour (2003 - 2012)
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Dec 28, 2018 04:18 PM







