Check me… what am I missing to go a VTEC head swap on my B20?
I am putting together parts to complete my VTEC head swap onto a JDM B20 in a ’99 Civic EK hatch. I’ve collected most of the parts, but I am wondering if I’m missing anything that I haven't brought up.

My goal is to make a reliable street machine that goes out once a month to the ‘track’ for some fun. The track would be anything from a road course, Auto-X event to a Drag strip (yes, multi-purpose build). My Power goal to focus on building more mid-range power instead of all the power at the top end of the revs (a better mid-range would be beneficial on the road course/auto-x events). Everything would be dyno tuned with a Hondata S300. But if you had to put numbers on it, 200hp and 160tq.

Here are my build plans:
GSR head (ported & polished) with VTEC solenoid and Dizzy
Supertech Valve, Dual Value Springs and Retainers
Type R cams with Skunk2 cam gears
Skunk2 Pro intake manifold
Type-R throttle body (62mm) (to buy)
Thermal Intake
Golden Eagle Head Studs (B18C1-GSR)
Oil Sandwich plate & alignment dowels
84-84.5MM head gasket (to buy)
GSR top end rebuild gasket kit
VTEC wiring sub harness (to build/buy)
Dizzy OBD2 adapter: OBD2b (Small 8 pin; SOHC) to OBD2 (Large 10 pin, OBD2-Integra/OBD2a-Civic) (to build/buy)
TODA rep/style Header, no Cat and Apexi WS2 exhaust

Throttle body: I have the stock 60mm TB off the CRV/LS/SI. Is the 62mm off the Type-R the correct size that I'll need or would a 66 or 70 give me the right power increase?

Head gasket: I am using a stock bore B20B block, would I need a 84 or 84.5mm?

Am I missing anything? If I didn't list it, ask me about it, I may already have it.

 

If you're on a stock bore use OEM bore sizing 84mm. Type r cams are good for midrange, something a bit bigger can work too. Depends on you though.

 

My build is similar but milder.
B20B
Stock GSR head. Supertech springs and retainers.
CTR/TypeR cams
stock GSR IM
AEM CAI with the fat chamber.
JDM 97 spec TypeR exhaust manifold.
WS2 exhaust.

I like the mid range of the stock GSR IM due to the longer runners. I opted not to go with Skunk IM cause the consensus is you sacrifice mid range torque for high end HP with the shorter runner. Went with a JDM 97 spec TypeR exhaust manifold for the same reason. The 4-2-1 was recommended for mid range while the 4-1 gave more top end power but sacrificed mid range. I was also curious about Throttle body as I'm running the stock GSR one and everytime I get tempted to buy an aftermarket TB I read the threads and with the mild setup I have the consensus is it's not needed. I'm also running e85 with Hodata S300v3 and 550cc injectors. I would recommend it if possible. The car feels great, I daily drive it and do occasional track days. I'd love to check out your tune if you are willing to share.

 

Your list is pretty short, all things considered you are missing a few odds and ends. I would also consider changing the oil pump to any OBD2 B-series pump (they're all the same), ITR/GSR water pump and timing belt for sure, ARP headstuds, and injectors of your choice. I run RDX ones with ktuned adapters.

But before any of this... have you tracked the car with the B20 motor? What transmission setup do you have? Is the chassis prepped for efficient cooling? Lots of questions...

 

OP, the oil pump is already the appropriate one... no need to change it if you have a stock original B20Z or high compression JDM B20B. The Golden Eagle head stud kit is vastly superior to the ARP head stud kit, so I would recommend using it as you previously stated. You will need a VTEC water pump... my recommendation would be the 1995 GSR pump for the highest flow volume. Lastly, you will also need a P72 (GSR/ITR) timing belt. The ITR throttle body will be optimum for your target HP goal... and as Shinsen stated above, it is unlikely that you will hit 160 ft/lbs., and if you try and utilize a throttle body that is too big, you will only LOSE mid-range performance... and thus, your target torque value will be even less than you have hoped to reach.

 

Shinsen... thank you for the tips.

I haven't gotten the car on the track yet, still working out some of the little hiccups here and there, but it has been a great Daily Driver the last 6 months. I currently have the LS trans and looking to replace it with a GSR trans (with an LS 5th gear) (not anytime soon). Suspension was overhauled this passed winter; Ground Control & KYB AGX; Integra 24mm front sway (with a EG/DC subframe), and Poly bushings. Brakes: DC Integra disc & calipers at all 4 corners with a 15/16" master cylinder.

I know every Dyno is different. but 150-160 tq is still pretty good amount in an EK hatch.

I picked up the head as a "package" with the Supertech parts and came with a handful of extra parts (thermo gaskets, oil plate and dowel pins). I still need to pick up a Headgasket.

The Cam gears came with the Type-R cams, I do have the stock cam gears; but I was under the assumption that I needed the Cam Gears when going doing a VTEC conversion.

I'll look for the S2000 TB as well, may end up with one because of the availability.

For the Water Pump & Timing belt, I was going to pick up the 22T and GSR timing belt.

 

I'd stick with the GSR 5th Gear. I had the LS Fifth and didn't gain a bit of mpg from it, and lost a lot of midrange from 4th gear to 5th gear.... I wouldn't do that at all. But that's just from my experience. I've taken my entire transmission apart JUST to change that back to a GS-R 5th.

 

Hey Shodan you think if he uses a GSR final drive with the LS trans that would work too?

 

No.. If it were a 4.78 final drive (not a 4.4) , it might help a bit, but mainly for a turbocharged application

 

ah, ok understood.

 

Before diving into the motor build, I would suggest focusing on prepping for and tracking the car with the existing setup and then basing your needs around that. A big mistake people make it adding power before considering all of the other factors that go into it, especially in a harsh environment like circuit racing. Track days will be brutal on temperature control and a focus on consistency is key. The last thing you want to worry about is mechanical issues or electrical gremlins that will ruin your day.

I speak from experience.... my first track day was a mind opener and it really helped make gauge what's important. I only wished I did it before I built my motor... cause there's lots of little things I would have done differently.

 

Church.....

 

Im gonna cosign Shodan and the other guy with racing experience. I say ditch the b20 setup and go with a b18c setup and itr head. I think the type r motor is a great platform and doesn't need much. A b18c on itr specs with a Toda A2 cam or even higher compression would have a nice powerband with response and pull everywhere in the rpm. From here, i say focus on setting up the far.



think of the b18c cars at Tsukuba man. They give me inspiration.

 

well last month, my B20-VTEC build was derailed and I'm no longer building the motor. The Civic was involved in an accident I and I sold the motor and bought a Integra GSR.