2.2

I have pretty much decided that I want to do a B20/VTEC setup in my VX Hatch. For the time being I am pretty strapped for cash though. I did a search and found nothing like this so I wanted to ask. Can someone list the cheapest way to accomplish a B20/VTEC setup. I am not looking for insane amounts of power, just to get it running smooth.

I have come up with this so far:
1st gen B16 swap - minus the transmission
B20 Block
GSR Tranny
GSR ECU

I know that there is machine work involved with the head and that you have to tap the block for the oil line. I am going to see if my uncle can do all of this for me in his machine shop. If anyone could help I would appreciate it. Thanks.

CRX_VTEC

Re: Does power always = $? (2.2)

YES!!!!

2.2

Not really the reply I was looking for, but it is true. I am just trying to find the cheapest way of doing things.

4wsB21a

power does not always equal money. it depends on how much of the work you can do yourself and how many connections you have. in this case, doing an engine swap, you will at least need to pay for the engine, tranny, wiring, and ecu - but like i said, if you have connections, you won't have to pay a lot of money. go to a junk yard and see if they have a "take all you can carry" day - bring your friends and get the engine and everything else that you need. then, if you can do the work, strip it down, get it cleaned, ported, bored, whatever and put it in the car.

if you don't have the ability to do a lot of the work yourself, then you will need to stick with just modifying the engine you've got, or else start saving every penny, cause you are looking at a few thousand bucks just to get the parts and put the engine in.

ImportReview

Here you go. Most people on here list prices without labor. And labor is what costs you, if you want it done right. If your going to do it yourself, you will need some expertise for sure and some expensive tools. A good snap-on torque wrench is a must. And have it checked for calibration too. You will need valve adjustment tools, copper spray (not nec) and a good machine shop to get everything in site resurfaced. Block decked, head resurfaced, flywheel resurfaced.....if you want it all done as good as possible.

Here is the lowdown...

Going rate for B20 block, complete: $1100
Going rate for ENTIRE B16A (from a hydro motor) because of the ECU, distributor, and harness.... about $1200
Axles, shift linkage, radiator hoses, etc....$450.
Since you got a CRV block, your going to need a B series Flywheel, and CLutch...could be from $300 to $400.
YOu need a tranny, about $650 Hydro B16A is good. Maybe a little more.
you still need a header...and an intake...you don't want to put that rusted out piece of crap on your girl right? $400?

0 labor, cause you had all the tools, machine shop and expertise to make it as good as possible...

your probably looking at about: $4150 if you did it yourself.

Abotu $5,000-$5100 if you have somebody do it.

Also, your going to have to change that pencil dick exhuast, and cat...thats about $500 for something decent.

So, from $4650-$5600.

Better to pay the $5600, your paying for expertise and proper assembly. Plus, the block and head are totally stock and not opened....usually shops charge about $400 to take apart the bottom end, put new bearings in that you bought ($125) and put it back together.

But that motor is pretty good for the money. YOur looking at about:

155 HP at the wheels
125 lbs of torque with B16A cams. And stock Bottom end.

I tried to be honest with the above. People will argue "I can get it for X price" yea, my brother owns a junk yard too, etc.

YOu also have to price the time involved in getting all that. Its better to just call a shop and have them locate it all, put it all together and install it...

then you can take it back, or not accept it if it does not run...

if you do it yourself...and it does not start or run....your pretty much out of luck.

Hope I helped.

Jeff

2.2

This is also true about not having it done right. At the moment, I have a friend who is going to help me that is ASE certified and an Uncle who owns a machine shop. I would think that we could do it ourselves.

Also, is the 1st gen B16 just as good of a choice as any other? Is there something that is better about the hydro version? I am going to price it all before I do it and figure out if I would just be better off with a B16 or something. Thanks for the help guys.