Visiting the forum for some information. I don't own a Honda anymore (it got totalled years ago...sad). My coworker is asking for my help with some routine maintenance. I'm going to help with the oil pan gasket and maybe the lower control arm.

I have the Fel-pro gasket kit already, but I'm seeing mixed things online about using RTV with it. If I were to do that, I'd only use Hondabond. so...IDK about that.

I found 8.7 ft lbs torque for the bolts and the different patterns for aluminum or steel (don't know what they have yet).
Anything particular I should know about this job, like moving things out of the way or is it out in the open? Any other tips would be helpful as I don't have a Haynes manual for Honda civic.

It's a 2005 Civic with the 1.7 L.

As for the lower control arm, the dealer told them to replace it. But I was thinking maybe it's just the ball joint that's bad. I can't imagine the whole arm going bad, but who knows. Any brand to avoid? I've been looking at places like Rockauto and local stores for prices.

Thanks in Advance!

 

If your BUSHINGS in your control arm are bad, it is easier, faster, and cheaper (after labor) to just buy another LCA. One bushing is replaceable, the other one you'll want to send to hell trying to push it out. I took my LCAs to 3 different shops with hydraulic presses and still didn't get my bushings changed.

If it is the ball joint, then yeah just replace it. I used masterpro (oreilley house brand) and they've held up alright. I know Moog is a good one too.

As for the oil pan, you'll have to get the exhaust midpipe out of the way some how iirc... header goes from the front and wraps under the engine. Don't dent the oil pickup. And there will be extra oil that will spill when you remove the pan.

 

are the bushings that much of a pain on a civic? The press kits from the auto store won't do it well?

as for the oil pan, how do you remove the exhaust midpipe? Also, what are the torque specs for all these things? Again without a manual I don't know how to tighten the necessary bolts, castle nuts, etc.

 

One bushing was accessible (Vertically mounted, forward most). The other, horizontally mounted bushing was impossible to push out according to 3 other shops. Luckily the horizontal (rearmost front LCA) bushing has a metal sleeve in it and is not subject to flex like the forward ones are. I could not get the press kit to work for me.

I don't know torque numbers off the top of my head, I'll check my chilton manual when I get home. The D17 has a pre-cat and upper O2 sensor as the downpipe immediately after the header, should be a flange there. The rest of the exhaust should hang far enough down to get the oil pan off from there.

Edit: Assuming you're talking about the front LCAs?

 

ah I see. Well in that case I guess the front LCA would be a better swap out.

 

 

thanks so much for that. Any input on brands for LCAs other than big ones like Moog, Beck Arnley, etc?

 

 

1AAuto has a two pack with ball joints for 83 bucks. Then I was looking at RockAuto for sway bars, Mevotech looks like a better grease boot than Moog. I know that the OEM ones are of course better, but if you're going cheap aftermarket, it makes sense to get one with grease fittings just to keep on top of them.