I am going to replace the voltage regulator on my civic 93, is it built in the alternator? If thats the case wouldnt it make sense to just buy the alternator? also, the reason why I believe it is the Voltage regulator is because I think is burning my headlight bulbs and my converter HiDs. Also the speedometer cluster sometimes dont light up. What do yall guys think, it dont make sense for the Voltage regulator to cost $240 when alternator cost cheaper than that and I notice its only 92-93 that have that regulator.

 

Either troubleshoot the regulator or I would get an alternator from a junkyard or borrow one-if your guess is wrong you will not be out of alot of money and have a spare. It could be that you have a short. As far as I know all hondas have regulators built into the alternator not sure of early ef's but my 90 si has it built into alt.

 

i do believe regulators are built in the alternators. But I think the 92-93 are different than the 94-95. I checked on ebay and the regulator cost $240, but why so much when I can get an alternator for about $100? I do not believe is a short because the speedometer cluster flickers also. I really dont mind buying a new alternator.
* Just canceled my Voltage regulator and will be buying an alternator instead lol.

 

Take a multimeter to your battery engine running, it shouldn't be over 15 volts, a bad voltage regulatory allowing too much current could fry compenents. That's rare.
I think it's something in your circuit that's acting up.

 

Yes you need to measure the voltage before concluding anything. Start the engine and turn off everything else electric. Measure voltage at the battery posts. Less than 15 is OK.

It sounds like you have lousy ebay HIDs and a bad dimmer control.

A true overvoltage will burn out every bulb in the car-- not just the ebay ones-- and burn up / explode the battery.

 

I get 13.89 volts on bulb connector and battery, I believe maybe a poor wiring is the problem? Where could I check for bad wiring?

 

13.8 is exactly the design voltage for "12 volt" automotive electrical systems with the engine running.

Why are you refusing to believe that that ebay HID kit is crap? Put stock bulbs back in and see where you are going.

 

Ok, I seemed to have fixed the HID lights by changing my Hid Converters that apparently died for whatever reason, so I put on the old converters and they turned on. Also, I believed the cause would be a poor wiring to the connector, so I changed the connector as well. Now, new problem, my battery is dying as if like I left lights on, but there is no lights on. It dies after 12 hours, I thought it was a weak battery and bought a new battery and turns out same problem, could it actually be my alternator or my alarm system? I didnt have the alarm activated when the battery died btw.

 

story of my life...people wonder why I use a 12v relay harness for HID setups,

 

Why? Is the HID converters not turning off?

 

Honestly, I believe it could just be the alarm system, I will probably take it to car toys so they can check it out. So, to understand what is going on here, something is taking too much voltage and amperage when off?

*Update: Just realized I had the alternator fuse missing. I has thought it was a spare but it wasnt, maybe the alternator wasnt charging the battery? I will see.