Having gone through 2 Preceision 5858 before by B16 blows up and remember the Shodan warning me about them. I'm now doing an EP3 K20 build and decided to go with Sheepy sidewinder manifold T4 divided flange setup. They seem to be more expensive then similar makes such as Go Autoworks or others. As for turbo, the BorgWarner S366 S300SXE SXE 6674 T4 1.00A/R or BorgWarner S300SX3-66 S366 .91 A/R come to mind. Everyone seems to be going for Garret GTXX series or precison. Any thoughts of the BorgWarner as I can't find any similar setups or feedback about them.

This is a street purpose car with aim for 500+ hp at the tires. Engine's all forged.

 

So what's your question...?

Or even the point of this topic?

 

Edited.

 

Are you asking about manifold selection or turbo selection?

 

In germany there is one guy with ee9 turbo k20
bw s369sxe at 18psi with 550hp. Twinscroll manifold.
my ep3 sidewinder t4 borg warner s200sx put 540hp at 25psi..
borg warner makes greats turbos! After 10tsd kilometers my shaft play is like new.

 

It's mainly turbo selection, but if you've got an input on the manifold that would be great. I've only seen you offer the side winder with either T3/T4 and 33mm or 44mm vband but no option for T4 twin scroll manifold..

 

Yeah in borg warner we trust.
Can you tell us a/r and rpm you hit full boost?

 

T3 or T4 open is just more common (here anyway). T3 or T4 divided w/ twin gate (38mm or 44mm vband) options are also avail.

 

I have 3 friends running BW S366. One of them is running an S2000 fully built and he is making 680whp. Then my other friend has a GSR CSS block fully built, 1000cc injectors and on C16 he made 572 whp, my other friend has ls/vtec CSS block fully built and he is making 522 whp on e85, he has it on a very conservative tune because he was having wastegate problems when we took it to the dyno, once he goes back for a retune it will be over 600 whp.

Non of them have had any issues with the turbo, the only complain is that the turbo kicks in around 6k so you need to take it to a very high rpm to take advantage of the turbo, but let me tell you once it kicks in, it sounds like a jet taking off lol.

 

You can easily get Garrett models of turbos with divided turbine housings to fit that exhaust manifold. In fact, from my experience with them, the Garretts fit better on those setups than the BWs, anyway.

You're asking for way too much turbo for such a reasonable power goal only because you think that the turbine housing is "twin scroll" (I warned you to be careful of using that terminology when it doesn't fit the profile), when it is simply a divided housing. What happens, however, is that those T4 flange systems are usually associated with a larger framed turbo that go way above any efficiency level you could use for your 550whp goal.

BWs can work. Most come T4, flange, and many of the HUGE models are inexpensive compared to Garretts. But that doesn't mean you just get the BW when it doesn't fit the bill. The results will make whatever savings you've gathered from getting it over a properly sized turbo become a moot point.

You don't have to get the divided turbine housing to match with the manifold. Yes, it's preferred, but not really better, unless you get a true twin-scrolled turbine housing. (Even then, that design works best on smaller turbos...much smaller, actually). Because of the better options on both journal and ball-bearing format is why Garrett & Precision & even Turbonetics are preferred over the BWs, hence why you're not finding a lot of info on 500whp applications with these S366 SXEs and the like.

I feel we've had this discussion before. Stop drinking the FULL-Race kool-aid from 2004, and look at the right turbo first, then worry about the flange stuff later.

 

Right.which makes the car that much more uncontrollable, great inducer bleed sound and all.

The conservative tune (retarded timing) with such a large turbo on lower boost is why your friend is having wastegate control issues. ..if the intent is drag racing, that can be easily solved.

God, I remember first running those back in 2003. Great turbines, big power, but hard to control..

 

Peak power is easy. It's taking advantage of the setup and gaining mid range that makes the car "enjoyable and fast" on the street. I would say (without going into deep explanation) the S366 is easily my least favorite turbo to use in almost any Honda scenario. It is only popular due to its price. As far as effectiveness and usable power...it falls short. All of the examples listed here could have made that same power (or more) on smaller, lighter, more efficient (per setup) units.

 

I agree with both Shodan and Autoworks, but with that in mind what do you guys suggest as an efficient budget friendly turbo? something as good quality and price point as BW but that flows much better than BW?

 

What is a "budget friendly" range for you? (budget is very subjective and swings quite a bit individual to indivdual)

(500hp street k series...it will be much smaller than a 66mm IMO)

 

Co-Sign.. Sometimes I should just follow Greg's explanation by making it simpler for others to understand the same point.

There is no "but with that in mind" clause in this.. The term Budget is sooo subjective. If more people were willing to "buy once, cry once", with more quality and purpose-oriented turbocharger sizes, there would be fewer questions like this on the boards from the last few years. 62mm or 66mm is just too large for the "fun factor" in the K-series (or any series for that matter for a "street" car purpose). Only the price makes it popular, and that's because they are the box units using the mermon clamp system (Thanks John Deere ).

Are you trying to run water lines? You should.. for the obvious reasons (See FI FAQs). That needs to be factored in. If you're looking for 500whp+ and be responsive and under $900 for the quality stuff. Forget it. This is why so many diesel shops took over the larger-framed BW market. You're not going to get "spool" & responsiveness for cheap...

 

I would say the same price point as a BW S366. So if you were to spend the same amount of money on a BW s366 $600-900 range. What would you consider a better option?

 

You have a good point, I guess is best to buy once instead of complaining later on, but I am asking just in case you guys know of any good bang for the buck turbo.

 

I'm sure both of us do.. the question is, what is your definition of "bang per buck?".. What is your maximum willingness to spend on the turbo unit itself?. (You gotta have a realistic $$ amount here) Autoworks and I come from a completely utilitarian perspective. Not to say that price is no object in our minds, but if its a matter of importance to have the characteristics you're looking for, I'd say we would both believe that you gotta be willing to spend a bit more than you may be normally comfortable with to get as many positive attributes of what you're looking for in a turbo as possible. That's the only way its done reliably and consistently.

About $900+ is where you're going to be to get started on the "budget minded". You can forget those other crack-head prices below that, in all honesty.

 

My budget on a turbo is around $1200 maybe more if I know for sure I get get good results. looking at the STC turbo's that are under $1000 how do these compare to the BW s300/366? like the Reaper, hunter, predator, interceptor, etc?

 

That's why those pages are all there. Giving all the info to decide for yourself. By size comparison ---> Reaper > Interceptor > Predator > Hunter

Too many factors to list. you have to make your own comparison from the information and empirical data you have on your S366. (To give a hint, stay under 62mm!!) All of those are obviously smaller, but that information is all there. there's no "quick guide" to which is "better".. Just be patient look at all the information and go from there. You'll be fine.

 

There really isn't a "magical" /perfect selection. There are some great fits, decent fits, and some "not so good/meh/but it works" fits for a goal like this. The problem is the obvious...500hp K series. There is SO much overlap in variety between brands/sizing to where you really narrow it down in different areas such as budget, where do you want the power, bearing type (which pretty easily gets dictated in budget), housing type, brand preference. How does x,y,z compare to a S366? Id' literally take any of x/y/z in the 54mm-62mm range beforeI used a S366 to achieve 500hp on a K street car. $900 or $1200, one will be journal bearing, one will open up for BB options. Do you have a brand preference? Wheel material preference? Are you shopping on your own or relying on the advice of the supplier for the turbo as well?... I'm rambling

 

At the OP: You say streetcar so assuming you planning on running normal pump fuel ? What octane fuel will you be running ?

This will also dictate the turbo size as higher octane fuel will allow you to make the power with a smaller turbocharger by running more boost and more advanced ignition timing versus lower octane fuel that will need a comparatively larger turbo to make the 500whp number whilst remaining within the knock limit of your fuel.

A BW S257 SX-E might get you to 500whp on a K series provided you not on 91 Octane alternatively a Turbonetics TNX 30/60 journal bearing (T3 flange) will also get you there. Both of these will come in around $1000 and offer you a good combination of power potential and response. The biggest BW S3xx you should look at if you're dead set on that is 362 SX-E

 

We've got 93, 97 and 101 Octane fuel here at the pumps. I was tempted with the BW mainly for it's price factor but like everyone's pointed. No point in saving $$$$ if I'm gonna loose on performance and have only like 2600 RPM of full turbo spool up to end range of my RPM.

I've decided to hold on the turbo as I spent on most of the other parts for the build, but looks like I will be going for Garrett, something around the GTX3076R (which is rated 500-750 hp) mark or a closer turbo to it.

 

That number is to the crankshaft, and you'll be able to make about 560whp from that turbo. Not 750hp to the crankshaft).

 

There is .63, .83 and 1.06 AR and I was thinking of the .83. Would it matter if the turbo comes with a T4 while the turbo manifold has T4 divided flange?