So I changed the master cylinder and now my breaks dont work, did I get to much air in the lines?
bled the passenger rear first, bled just fine, then went to the front driver also bled just fine.
Then went to the driver rear and I am getting no pressure, we sat there for over 45 minutes trying to get something to come out but very little fluid even with a hand pump.
So we decided to move to the front driver side and it did the same exact thing, we tried using the hand pump again to clear the lines it was barely coming out and it was very dark.
Also unbolted the break caliper pushed it in and when I wash pushing the breaks you can see the break cylinder barely move in and out but always go back in.
Do I have clogged lines somehow and if so how do I unclog them thanks..
Also bled it from the master cylinder and still nothing.
Sorry not the greatest at explaining hope its understandable, not a mechanic Im sure you can tell jaja

 

yea dude that sounds like a clogged line or a bent one

one little trick is to take the bleeders off the calipers on those clogged lines and just wait till they start leaking (overnight if you have to )
could be a peace of rust or something on the lines and its too big to go threw the small bleeder hole
to speed up the process you can be pumping the brake pedal but thats only if your in a rush and make sure you stay topped off on brake fluid

why did you change out the master cyl ?

 

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? Is the master cylinder new or used?

 

Sounds like it might be clogged up between the MC and the proportioning valve. The proportioning valve is on the passenger shock tower under the fuse box (battery/power relay box really).

 

Aren't you supposed to bleed your calipers in this order: driver rear, passenger rear, passenger front, driver front?

 

Not on EFs. The right rear and left front are run off of the same line from the MC to the proportioning valve, and obviously left rear and right front. Should be bled in the way that I just listed them.

 

Master cylinder is brand new just took the other new one back yesterday cause I thought I got a bad one
I will try and bleed it to the proportioning valve then as well, it had a bunch or rusty looking fluid coming out of the passenger front
so I'm hoping that's the problem thanks for that heads up. Thanks for all the insight fellas, was ready to pull what hair I have out jaja
will let you know after I get back at it what it turned out to be, most posts here I see a lot of ideas and no end verdict no one wants to tell you how it was fixed jaja thanks again... Honda bleed order in photo

 

I dealt with a similar issue this week. What I did to fix it was:

Make sure there's no leaks in the system
Bleed the master cylinder
Loosen each bleed nipple one at a time and keep pumping the pedal with the nipple lose to get some fluid pumping through the system. Do this to all 4 corners until you see fluid coming out.
Bleed brakes as per normal

 

Also curious when I bought the new Brake booster and Master cylinder they both came with a little black rubber gasket, do I use both?
yes stupid ? If they bot are supplied with a gasket, only because I was told it only needs one, true/false thanks

 

only use 1 gasket.

you did not answer the question about bench bleeding. i assume you didnt. you should unbolt the MC and start from there.

also, you need to double check the booster pushrod spacing since im guessing youre not using OEM parts. if its too close, brakes lock up. not sure what happens if its too much, but it likely doesnt work optimally anyway. its something that needs to be checked.
https://www.autozone.com/repairguide...00c1528018fa4c

also, if you had dirty fluid coming out, the whole system needs some maintenance and that includes your calipers likely need a rebuild or replacement too. the pistons are probably trash, pitted and gunked up, impossible to seal. same with rear cylinders, those you just replace.

 

We bench bled it without the kit, as far as the calipers they were working just fine before installing a brand new booster and master cylinder, breaks worked just fine but booster was going bad. Great, wasnt sure on if I needed to use both gaskets or not.
We pumped and sucked all the air out everything seemed to be working great till we bolted the master down and started to bleed the rear break, again nothing is coming out after what seemed to be cleared lines. I guess we will have to check the pushrod spacing. Appreciate the info, Ill have to get a kit to bench the master as well seems **** doesnt wanna come out after installing the master Thanks again