Rebuilding my GSR, looking for suggestions
I have a 98 GSR with lousy compression on a cylinder or two and I'm blowing oil out the back so I'm planning a rebuild. The motor was forced induction but I'm looking to go relatively inexpensive NA with the motor as I'm building a turbo project car on the side. I'm looking to raise compression a bit, run 93 octane, and use either an OBD1 or 2 GSR ecu, an ITR ecu, or a chipped P28 for engine management with an AFC if needed. Any suggestions on how to get the best bang for my buck out of the engine? USDM ITR pistons? JDM ITR pistons? I'm not really up on what combinations produce what compression ratios. I also have a wideband O2 that I could tune the afc as needed.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c.../compcalc.html for all your compression ratio needs (B-series anyway).
As far as tuning, I would recommend Hondata if you can find someone near you to tune it. It would probably cost less than a chipped ECU and definitely less than an AFC.. plus it will run better.
As far as tuning, I would recommend Hondata if you can find someone near you to tune it. It would probably cost less than a chipped ECU and definitely less than an AFC.. plus it will run better.

Take apart the motor and take measurements to see if you need to overbore, deck the head/block.
cylinder bore taper
cylinder bore out-of-roundness
cylinder bore diameter (max)
piston ring end gap with a new ring pack
cylinder head and block decks for straightness
crankshaft end play
connecting rod end play
crankshaft main journal diameter
crankshaft main journal out-of-roundness
crankshaft rod journal diameter
crankshaft rod journal out-of-roundness
For all the other measurements, look in the Helm service manual....getting pooped out from typing.
I'd stick with the P72-A0 flat-tops for forced induction, if you don't already want to use an aftermarket piston.
Edit: Ignore the last sentence...I just re-read.
[Modified by IN VTEC, 5:40 PM 11/12/2002]
cylinder bore taper
cylinder bore out-of-roundness
cylinder bore diameter (max)
piston ring end gap with a new ring pack
cylinder head and block decks for straightness
crankshaft end play
connecting rod end play
crankshaft main journal diameter
crankshaft main journal out-of-roundness
crankshaft rod journal diameter
crankshaft rod journal out-of-roundness
For all the other measurements, look in the Helm service manual....getting pooped out from typing.
I'd stick with the P72-A0 flat-tops for forced induction, if you don't already want to use an aftermarket piston.
Edit: Ignore the last sentence...I just re-read.
[Modified by IN VTEC, 5:40 PM 11/12/2002]
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c.../compcalc.html for all your compression ratio needs (B-series anyway).
I want to know too, I am gonna run JDM ITR or CTR pistons most likely in my car. I am planning an N/A rebuild as well.
TTT.. Any input from more experienced people?
TTT.. Any input from more experienced people?
CTR pistons apparently yield just over a 12:1 compression ratio in a GSR, anyone running this set-up? I know someone is or was, let me kow what you thought of it.
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I've got the JDM ITR pistons. Nothing really to comment so far. It's faster for sure, but how much?....I dunno.
I've only got 496 miles on it, and it's almost completely untuned.
I've only got 496 miles on it, and it's almost completely untuned.
what ecu or engine management are you running?
I've got the JDM ITR pistons. Nothing really to comment so far. It's faster for sure, but how much?....I dunno.
I've only got 496 miles on it, and it's almost completely untuned.
I've only got 496 miles on it, and it's almost completely untuned.
'95 Integra GS-R
B18C1
.P72 (OBD-I)
.CTR cams (the exhaust cam was from Pinhead's '00 ITR and the CTR Intake cam is brand new from Damien aka Nighthawk GS-R)
.ITR valvesprings (from Mike M's old '00 ITR)
.ITR intake valves (courtesy of tvrvic)
.Skunk2 cam gears (with 7 marks instead of 5 marks...only 6.5 marks are usable from Art)
.JDM ITR pistons (courtesy of Mike M @ IPS)
.Mugen oil pan (also courtesy of Mike M @ IPS)
.ACL bearings (from Rocket)
.ARP head studs (from Rocket)
Only other things worth mentioning in this post are the Apexi VAFC (Leo) and B&M FPR (ceemarun).
The only thing that concerned me was the bore taper. It came out to .0019" with a service limit of .002". I still get a cold start piston slap for just a second and then it doesn't show up again until the next day's cold start. I'll know next time to overbore it when I'm that close to the service limit.
The rods were never deburred, polished, and shotpeened. I only got around to deburring some of the crank girdle and that's it. I'm making it a point on any motors I build for others in the future to go through with the entire process.
Castrol Heavy Duty 30 weight was used for the initial start up. I cranked it over a few times to prime the oil pump. Then started it and it cold idled smoothly on its own after 4 cranks. I let it idle long enough to warm up so I could bleed the air out of the cooling system and set the ignition timing.
Shut it down and changed the oil to Castrol GT-X 5W-30.
Thus far, it hasn't burned any or much of any oil. I've changed the oil at 300 miles and I'll do it again at 500 miles & 1000 miles.
Dunno why I'm going into such detail about the build. I just started typing and thought you might like to know some of this stuff.
B18C1
.P72 (OBD-I)
.CTR cams (the exhaust cam was from Pinhead's '00 ITR and the CTR Intake cam is brand new from Damien aka Nighthawk GS-R)
.ITR valvesprings (from Mike M's old '00 ITR)
.ITR intake valves (courtesy of tvrvic)
.Skunk2 cam gears (with 7 marks instead of 5 marks...only 6.5 marks are usable from Art)
.JDM ITR pistons (courtesy of Mike M @ IPS)
.Mugen oil pan (also courtesy of Mike M @ IPS)
.ACL bearings (from Rocket)
.ARP head studs (from Rocket)
Only other things worth mentioning in this post are the Apexi VAFC (Leo) and B&M FPR (ceemarun).
The only thing that concerned me was the bore taper. It came out to .0019" with a service limit of .002". I still get a cold start piston slap for just a second and then it doesn't show up again until the next day's cold start. I'll know next time to overbore it when I'm that close to the service limit.
The rods were never deburred, polished, and shotpeened. I only got around to deburring some of the crank girdle and that's it. I'm making it a point on any motors I build for others in the future to go through with the entire process.
Castrol Heavy Duty 30 weight was used for the initial start up. I cranked it over a few times to prime the oil pump. Then started it and it cold idled smoothly on its own after 4 cranks. I let it idle long enough to warm up so I could bleed the air out of the cooling system and set the ignition timing.
Shut it down and changed the oil to Castrol GT-X 5W-30.
Thus far, it hasn't burned any or much of any oil. I've changed the oil at 300 miles and I'll do it again at 500 miles & 1000 miles.
Dunno why I'm going into such detail about the build. I just started typing and thought you might like to know some of this stuff.
That's actually very helpful information IN VTEC, thanks.
What source/s of information did you use? Have you done a rebuild before? Could one do a rebuild with just a Helms or is other information recommended?
What source/s of information did you use? Have you done a rebuild before? Could one do a rebuild with just a Helms or is other information recommended?
Thanks for all the info, by the way that breakdown off all the people you got parts from is great!
So with all those parts do you have any kind of numbers as to how it runs or at least any comparisons although looks like you're still breaking it in
So with all those parts do you have any kind of numbers as to how it runs or at least any comparisons although looks like you're still breaking it in
This rebuild was the first I'd ever done. I've never even cracked open an engine before doing my own. All I used was a Helms manual, a little bit of advice from teh Tech forum, and the help of a rotary builder/mechanic who had quite a few tricks up his sleeve. I learned a lot of things along the way and figured out a couple of things along the way. The best advice I can give is to not assume anything and pay a lot of attention to detail.
I also managed to spend about $500 in tools just for the rebuild and make the local Honda parts dept my best friend. The guy who manages the online parts orders @ Acura Carland in Duluth, GA also knows me all too well now....as well as the Acura parts manager, who I called repeatedly to ask for long part numbers.
The engine wasn't the only thing that got reworked.
I switched over to using the ITR springs, shocks, and rear LCA's, as well as the 96-spec JDM ITR front LCA compensator bushings and 24mm front swaybar/endlinks (just for the harder endlink bushings and to replace a worn out endlink). I originally used Neuspeed Koni Yellows and ITR springs.
The front and rear LCA bushings were replaced with Mugen hard rubber bushings (courtesy of Leo, who gave me a better price than King MS did).
There are a lot of other little details about the engine build that would take too long to highlight all of them. I'm hoping that I'll now be able to give a friend's turbo'd Jetta a beating....b/c he walked my friend's ITR. If I still can't beat him, then I'm putting in the JDM ITR FD.
I can e-mail the parts list I used (OEM and aftermarket), as well as the part numbers for the OEM parts. Also, I've got a list of people I've bought from/sold to in the last year if anybody's interested. MS Excel format for all of them.
I have a few things to do to the car to put the finishing touches on it, but otherwise, it's probably gonna be dyno'd at the end of the month (@ CJ motorsports in Naperville, IL), if a street VTEC run to redline doesn't make any problems.
I also managed to spend about $500 in tools just for the rebuild and make the local Honda parts dept my best friend. The guy who manages the online parts orders @ Acura Carland in Duluth, GA also knows me all too well now....as well as the Acura parts manager, who I called repeatedly to ask for long part numbers.
The engine wasn't the only thing that got reworked.
I switched over to using the ITR springs, shocks, and rear LCA's, as well as the 96-spec JDM ITR front LCA compensator bushings and 24mm front swaybar/endlinks (just for the harder endlink bushings and to replace a worn out endlink). I originally used Neuspeed Koni Yellows and ITR springs.
The front and rear LCA bushings were replaced with Mugen hard rubber bushings (courtesy of Leo, who gave me a better price than King MS did).
There are a lot of other little details about the engine build that would take too long to highlight all of them. I'm hoping that I'll now be able to give a friend's turbo'd Jetta a beating....b/c he walked my friend's ITR. If I still can't beat him, then I'm putting in the JDM ITR FD.
I can e-mail the parts list I used (OEM and aftermarket), as well as the part numbers for the OEM parts. Also, I've got a list of people I've bought from/sold to in the last year if anybody's interested. MS Excel format for all of them.
I have a few things to do to the car to put the finishing touches on it, but otherwise, it's probably gonna be dyno'd at the end of the month (@ CJ motorsports in Naperville, IL), if a street VTEC run to redline doesn't make any problems.
I want to know too, I am gonna run JDM ITR or CTR pistons most likely in my car. I am planning an N/A rebuild as well.
TTT.. Any input from more experienced people?
TTT.. Any input from more experienced people?
This rebuild was the first I'd ever done. I've never even cracked open an engine before doing my own. All I used was a Helms manual, a little bit of advice from teh Tech forum, and the help of a rotary builder/mechanic who had quite a few tricks up his sleeve. I learned a lot of things along the way and figured out a couple of things along the way. The best advice I can give is to not assume anything and pay a lot of attention to detail.
I also managed to spend about $500 in tools just for the rebuild and make the local Honda parts dept my best friend. The guy who manages the online parts orders @ Acura Carland in Duluth, GA also knows me all too well now....as well as the Acura parts manager, who I called repeatedly to ask for long part numbers.
The engine wasn't the only thing that got reworked.
I switched over to using the ITR springs, shocks, and rear LCA's, as well as the 96-spec JDM ITR front LCA compensator bushings and 24mm front swaybar/endlinks (just for the harder endlink bushings and to replace a worn out endlink). I originally used Neuspeed Koni Yellows and ITR springs.
The front and rear LCA bushings were replaced with Mugen hard rubber bushings (courtesy of Leo, who gave me a better price than King MS did).
There are a lot of other little details about the engine build that would take too long to highlight all of them. I'm hoping that I'll now be able to give a friend's turbo'd Jetta a beating....b/c he walked my friend's ITR. If I still can't beat him, then I'm putting in the JDM ITR FD.
I can e-mail the parts list I used (OEM and aftermarket), as well as the part numbers for the OEM parts. Also, I've got a list of people I've bought from/sold to in the last year if anybody's interested. MS Excel format for all of them.
I have a few things to do to the car to put the finishing touches on it, but otherwise, it's probably gonna be dyno'd at the end of the month (@ CJ motorsports in Naperville, IL), if a street VTEC run to redline doesn't make any problems.
I also managed to spend about $500 in tools just for the rebuild and make the local Honda parts dept my best friend. The guy who manages the online parts orders @ Acura Carland in Duluth, GA also knows me all too well now....as well as the Acura parts manager, who I called repeatedly to ask for long part numbers.
The engine wasn't the only thing that got reworked.
I switched over to using the ITR springs, shocks, and rear LCA's, as well as the 96-spec JDM ITR front LCA compensator bushings and 24mm front swaybar/endlinks (just for the harder endlink bushings and to replace a worn out endlink). I originally used Neuspeed Koni Yellows and ITR springs.
The front and rear LCA bushings were replaced with Mugen hard rubber bushings (courtesy of Leo, who gave me a better price than King MS did).
There are a lot of other little details about the engine build that would take too long to highlight all of them. I'm hoping that I'll now be able to give a friend's turbo'd Jetta a beating....b/c he walked my friend's ITR. If I still can't beat him, then I'm putting in the JDM ITR FD.
I can e-mail the parts list I used (OEM and aftermarket), as well as the part numbers for the OEM parts. Also, I've got a list of people I've bought from/sold to in the last year if anybody's interested. MS Excel format for all of them.
I have a few things to do to the car to put the finishing touches on it, but otherwise, it's probably gonna be dyno'd at the end of the month (@ CJ motorsports in Naperville, IL), if a street VTEC run to redline doesn't make any problems.
thanx
good info
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