2000 Honda Accord - Green Key, Crank - No Start
Hey all! Top heavy car enthusiast here - Seeking advise - Plllleassee...
Ok, so i'm out of options, and a car sitting in my driveway... Common sense told me to tap out about $400.00 ago... but no - i'm still here picking my brain... I'm having some issues with my 2000 Honda Accord - I'm just looking for a little guidance here...
2000 Honda 3.2L - I got the car free - Figured I could probably fix it (as I've done to many).. well here it is:
Issues: Cranks, won't start. No spark. Green Key light blinking. No Codes being spit out.
My attempts at repairing: Replaced main relay, Ignition-Switch, Ignition sensor thing, Re-programmed new key, ACG fuse is good, Electrical tells me it was the Dizzy - Replaced it and still nothing.
.. What else can it be? What do I have to do?
Thanks All!
Peenk Ryder
Ok, so i'm out of options, and a car sitting in my driveway... Common sense told me to tap out about $400.00 ago... but no - i'm still here picking my brain... I'm having some issues with my 2000 Honda Accord - I'm just looking for a little guidance here...
2000 Honda 3.2L - I got the car free - Figured I could probably fix it (as I've done to many).. well here it is:
Issues: Cranks, won't start. No spark. Green Key light blinking. No Codes being spit out.
My attempts at repairing: Replaced main relay, Ignition-Switch, Ignition sensor thing, Re-programmed new key, ACG fuse is good, Electrical tells me it was the Dizzy - Replaced it and still nothing.
.. What else can it be? What do I have to do?
Thanks All!
Peenk Ryder
The green blinking light is due to the Immobilizer System.
First check under-hood Fuse No. 46 (15A) and driver's side under-dash Fuse No. 1 (15A).
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III),
the immobilizer receiver unit and the PCM or ECM
receive an “ignition on” signal through fuse 46 and
the PGM-FI main relay. The PCM or ECM then
sends power to the ignition key transponder
through the immobilizer receiver unit. The
transponder then sends a coded signal back to the
PCM or ECM through the receiver. If the signal is
correct, the PCM or ECM will enable the car’s fuel
supply system by grounding the PGM-FI main
relay. The immobilizer indicator light flashes a code
to indicate that the correct key has been inserted.
If the ignition key signal is not correct, the PCM or
ECM will not enable the car’s fuel supply system
by not grounding the PGM-FI main relay. The
immobilizer indicator light then flashes a code to
indicate that an incorrect key has been inserted.
If those fuses are good, make sure the car's battery is actually good. You may want to try jumping the car or use a different battery to see if things change.
If the fuses and battery is good, then try to obtain Immobilizer Brake Code from a Honda dealer.
First check under-hood Fuse No. 46 (15A) and driver's side under-dash Fuse No. 1 (15A).
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III),
the immobilizer receiver unit and the PCM or ECM
receive an “ignition on” signal through fuse 46 and
the PGM-FI main relay. The PCM or ECM then
sends power to the ignition key transponder
through the immobilizer receiver unit. The
transponder then sends a coded signal back to the
PCM or ECM through the receiver. If the signal is
correct, the PCM or ECM will enable the car’s fuel
supply system by grounding the PGM-FI main
relay. The immobilizer indicator light flashes a code
to indicate that the correct key has been inserted.
If the ignition key signal is not correct, the PCM or
ECM will not enable the car’s fuel supply system
by not grounding the PGM-FI main relay. The
immobilizer indicator light then flashes a code to
indicate that an incorrect key has been inserted.
If those fuses are good, make sure the car's battery is actually good. You may want to try jumping the car or use a different battery to see if things change.
If the fuses and battery is good, then try to obtain Immobilizer Brake Code from a Honda dealer.
Oh, how could I forget to add the recent battery replacement? Silly me!
This isigetting super technical (lol) but your instructions were on point.. I' try that tomorrow... Thanks for the advice!
This isigetting super technical (lol) but your instructions were on point.. I' try that tomorrow... Thanks for the advice!
The green blinking light is due to the Immobilizer System.
First check under-hood Fuse No. 46 (15A) and driver's side under-dash Fuse No. 1 (15A).
With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III),
the immobilizer receiver unit and the PCM or ECM
receive an “ignition on” signal through fuse 46 and
the PGM-FI main relay. The PCM or ECM then
sends power to the ignition key transponder
through the immobilizer receiver unit. The
transponder then sends a coded signal back to the
PCM or ECM through the receiver. If the signal is
correct, the PCM or ECM will enable the car’s fuel
supply system by grounding the PGM-FI main
relay. The immobilizer indicator light flashes a code
to indicate that the correct key has been inserted.
If the ignition key signal is not correct, the PCM or
ECM will not enable the car’s fuel supply system
by not grounding the PGM-FI main relay. The
immobilizer indicator light then flashes a code to
indicate that an incorrect key has been inserted.
If those fuses are good, make sure the car's battery is actually good. You may want to try jumping the car or use a different battery to see if things change.
If the fuses and battery is good, then try to obtain Immobilizer Brake Code from a Honda dealer.
First check under-hood Fuse No. 46 (15A) and driver's side under-dash Fuse No. 1 (15A).
the immobilizer receiver unit and the PCM or ECM
receive an “ignition on” signal through fuse 46 and
the PGM-FI main relay. The PCM or ECM then
sends power to the ignition key transponder
through the immobilizer receiver unit. The
transponder then sends a coded signal back to the
PCM or ECM through the receiver. If the signal is
correct, the PCM or ECM will enable the car’s fuel
supply system by grounding the PGM-FI main
relay. The immobilizer indicator light flashes a code
to indicate that the correct key has been inserted.
If the ignition key signal is not correct, the PCM or
ECM will not enable the car’s fuel supply system
by not grounding the PGM-FI main relay. The
immobilizer indicator light then flashes a code to
indicate that an incorrect key has been inserted.
If those fuses are good, make sure the car's battery is actually good. You may want to try jumping the car or use a different battery to see if things change.
If the fuses and battery is good, then try to obtain Immobilizer Brake Code from a Honda dealer.
- First check under-hood Fuse No. 46 (15A) and driver's side under-dash Fuse No. 1 (15A).
- If the fuses and battery is good, then try to obtain Immobilizer Brake Code from a Honda dealer.
Is it the correct key..if its a cut key it wont work due to the fact it does not have the factory chip embedded in it..also if heard parking under high tension wire's will disrupt the function also
I'm convinced it's the imobilizer. I've swapped out just about everything, and still shows that little key thing... I've read; if I get a JDM ECU it will bypass the stupid key thing...
1. Is this true?
2. What kind of programming will I need to do after I buy it?
1. Is this true?
2. What kind of programming will I need to do after I buy it?
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Yes you will need to get the ecu reprogrammed it's about 130 dollars at Honda unfortunately plus the ignition switch with keys but you've already bought those I believe you said
Hey all! Top heavy car enthusiast here - Seeking advise - Plllleassee...
Ok, so i'm out of options, and a car sitting in my driveway... Common sense told me to tap out about $400.00 ago... but no - i'm still here picking my brain... I'm having some issues with my 2000 Honda Accord - I'm just looking for a little guidance here...
2000 Honda 3.2L - I got the car free - Figured I could probably fix it (as I've done to many).. well here it is:
Issues: Cranks, won't start. No spark. Green Key light blinking. No Codes being spit out.
My attempts at repairing: Replaced main relay, Ignition-Switch, Ignition sensor thing, Re-programmed new key, ACG fuse is good, Electrical tells me it was the Dizzy - Replaced it and still nothing.
.. What else can it be? What do I have to do?
Thanks All!
Peenk Ryder
Ok, so i'm out of options, and a car sitting in my driveway... Common sense told me to tap out about $400.00 ago... but no - i'm still here picking my brain... I'm having some issues with my 2000 Honda Accord - I'm just looking for a little guidance here...
2000 Honda 3.2L - I got the car free - Figured I could probably fix it (as I've done to many).. well here it is:
Issues: Cranks, won't start. No spark. Green Key light blinking. No Codes being spit out.
My attempts at repairing: Replaced main relay, Ignition-Switch, Ignition sensor thing, Re-programmed new key, ACG fuse is good, Electrical tells me it was the Dizzy - Replaced it and still nothing.
.. What else can it be? What do I have to do?
Thanks All!
Peenk Ryder
any luck? 2000 accord crank no start after green key vanished, changed main relay key light came on and i cranked but no start then after cranking clicking under the dash which I've heard is related to the factory security system engaging the kill-starter feature, now no green key again with the new relay in.. all I know is I need help I am at a loss I despise this. 5spd if it makes a dif and no it wont push start without green key i realized i should have tried but it stopped coming on
HELP?!? My door dash car my only source of income 2000 accord crank no start after green key vanished, changed main relay key light came on and i cranked but no start then after cranking clicking under the dash which I've heard is related to the factory security system engaging the kill-starter feature, now no green key again with the new relay in.. all I know is I need help I am at a loss I despise this. 5spd if it matters and no it wont push start or start period the without green key i realized i should have tried when it was on when i first plugged in the new relay but after a few cranks key stopped coming on God help me
I'm having the same type of issue's. Bought a 2001 honda accord but the ignition was changed and the original key was unprogramed. I have a ey that turns the engine over but is not programed to the immobilizer. Will a bypass and or remote starter fix the problem? Or how can I get the break code?
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