Ive bought a 1992 DA5 Integra as a weekend/project. Fully striped, half cage. It came with a LSVTEC. The owner said that it ran a bearing and required a rebuild. So i did that and sure enough it did. Its looks to be a stock bottem end with new GMB water pump. Head seems stock with what looks like some sort of after market springs on.

Only after market bolts ons were home job engine mount plates and a after market fuel rail and pressure regulator. Im having the block and head machined at a shop.

Build wise i want something for the street as a weekend drive or the odd track day here and there. Im in no rush to have it completed so build time isnt an issue.

As far as price goes, I'd rather spend more and have a good quality build. I looking at getting forged pistions and rods, maybe new B18c5 cams if its worth doing, springs, valves, rings + bearings. Power wise, if it made a happy 200 - 220KW to the wheels, im not expecting any crazy numbers.

Ecu is chipped and tuned on crome at 120KW before it ran the bearing. Im wanting any advice on what sort of compression ratios am i looking at? What brands are worth going for? Stable oil pressure figures? Any figures and/or info anyone has would be greatly appreciated.

 

Welcome to H-T All-Motor

For those in the States not knowing the conversion that B20 Integra is referring to "power wise", he/she is looking at about 268whp-295whp, which is not an easy task at all for what you're trying to do. You'll be closer to the 200kw area but not the 220kw, not without making this a dedicated circuit car or drag car. You're easily looking at specific camshafts in the Skunk2 Pro2, Buddy Club IV, or Kelfords, completely new valvetrain (springs & retainers, valves, new pistons/rods, port & polish of the head, a very large runner exhaust manifold, COMPLETELY new engine management (No "chips" or CROME PRO) and about 12.5+ Compression ratio. There is no way you'll reach that goal with OEM Honda camshafts.

TIme to take a look at some other builds on here, (like in the B20VTEC thread) to see some serious examples. But if you still want this car to be usable for the streets of your area, there's definitely going to be a balancing act in Part selection.
Please also state in your profile your location, as you sound like your from either Australia or New Zealand, which has completely different availability of certain parts for Hondas. It gets REALLY expensive when shipping from the States to you, as that is where the majority of the parts you're going to need come from.

 

Yes im from New Zealand. We've got a few local suppliers for aftermarket parts like cams and pistions and rods ect. Shipping from the states tends to be around the $100, which when added to the cost of whatever im buying, rods for example, it still ends up being cheaper than buying locally most of the time. Im also able to buy a few parts through my job, which means ill be paying what work buys the product for plus 15% gst.
ive very set on the B16/B20 all motor build as the car ive got came with the motor that ran a bearing plus a spair b16 head and b20 block. I will DEFINITELY be forging this build. The only thing that will be stock, at this point at least, is the crank.
im happy enough to make 200kw. Even the late 190's is a good figure. Im only after an enjoyable weekend driver thats able to handle a bit of track work.
Build wise im looking at the following:
JE Pistions, 84.5mm wide, 12.5:1 ratio
Egale H beam rods
Buddyclub racing cam with springs, retainers, adjustable cam gears
Cometic b20 - b16/b18 headgasket.
Once the motor is built and running, I'll look into all the necessary boltons like slunk2 intake, full exhaust, fuel pump

 

Are you also on NZHondas.nz?

 

Yes i am. Im just looking any info on builds. Wether they're built locally or not. Which is why im here. The people on the NZ fourm are super helpful too.

 

Your best bet is to view the hundreds of builds on the B20VTEC thread

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...2A%2A-1555476/

 

My advice: since you're looking for such a high number, definitely get the forged internals but gap the rings just a little bit more than what you'd want for all motor. That way you have the option later on of going nitrous or turbo. (even on high compression it's possible, just DON'T SKIMP ON THE TUNING)