Just wanted to let people know that it is possible to build a b20vtec on the low. I will not comment on reliability but I will say i have never blown an engine i have tuned.
Here in Cali we are blessed with Pick-N-Pull junkyards. Once every few months they have 50% Off sales. I go there in search of CRV B20Z2 Engines and try my best to make sure there are teggys in the yard.
I pull the first b20 I find that turns over. Its guaranteed for 30 days and even if i buy a clunker they still honor that 50% off price for upto 30 days. so i can wait out a better engine if i ever had to.
Anyhow Once I have my b20 longblock I find a teggy and swap the intake manifold on and the water pipe and dizzy. Now i have a ready to run B20z2 for $85 at the counter with a 30 day warrenty,
Next I pull the head and sell it as a complete LS head or I save the head for a non vtec build. I NEVER surface my engine blocks. I just clean them with carb cleaner, a razor blade, and a microfiber rag.
I buy $43 Chinese Head Studs from EBAY. I buy $15 chinese b20 head gaskets from EBAY. I also buy the EBAY special $21 sandwich feed kit. My Brother In law got a complete b16 longblock for $200 bones and didnt want it so i got the top end.
Once again I DO NOT surface my heads. I simply clean them well. I DO NOT use Dowel Pins. And the shocker.... I USE silicone on my head gasket. Yup. a small dap around all the oil jackets. Helps prevent external oil leaks and holds gasket in place.
I take my b20Vtec up to 8400 Rpm. No it is not built. No It is not a low mileage motor. No I did not use GSR water pump or timing belt. Nor do I use new water pumps or belts. I re use used parts if they work. I street tune on chrome dealer.
This car does get daily driven. You can have a cheap b20 or ls vtec. do not let the horror stories scare you away. This is not the first one I have done and i have been practicing these methods on all honda engines. Dont get me wrong im all for doing things the right way. But in all honesty it is not absolutely necessary. You can still have a fast car for the low and you can always have another $85 longblock waiting as a back up if you wanted.

 

I think it's cool you took the time to write out what you did and how it worked, thanks man. I think horror stories come from people who don't assemble it right...

I bought Autozone gaskets before and I also RTV it and never had any problems (these are on disposable cars I don't care about).

I also have been trying to move away from spending ridiculous money on everything. I used to only get all OEM parts, gaskets, seals, whatever, but it just ends up turning your cheap Japanese econobox build into some foreign sports car. I'm trying to just see what I can get away with, but obviously not do a crappy job.

Anyway thanks for the write up man, let us know how it goes..

 

 

im not even mad... im actually impressed!

thanks for your contribution!

 

Moved to Misc Tech from the Machining section.

Doesn't really fit the machining/assembly section as you described avoiding the machine shop at all costs.

Glad it worked out for you. Thanks for contributing.

 

If all you say is true... you are the luckiest Honda driver alive !!! Can I interest you in a trip to Vegas ???

 

Thanks for the responses all! Car has been a blast to drive. Nearing the one month mark on this one and 1k miles on it so far. Engine sees 8400 rpm every day. It drinks a sip of oil. But topping the oil off fits the budget better than pistons ring and machine
From my own personal experience head dowels are not needed. I have plain flat out never had a head sealing issue using the above method.
JrCivic1 sure man sounds like a fun drive with big open roads.
More than happy to mount the go pro and do some pulls and an overall walk around of the setup if anyone cares to see.
Ebay turbo fuel pump and injectors on thier way. Time to see how far this junkyard block will go.

 

 

Funny you say that. I have reused a many head gaskets and put silicone around the oil ports. Never had one pop after being re used either.
Update: Recieved my chinese t3/t4 turbo. chinese i/c piping. chinese oil feed and drain. bought a usa made billet -10an fitting for the oil pan. Recieved my chinese gm3 bar knock off map. china boost gauge. chinese injectors chinese fuel pump. usa made down pipe. Should begin mocking up the turbo this weekend, maybe i need to start a build log? Anyways thanks for the views and comments to all.

 

I will gladly follow along your build if you don't neglect to update us when the turbo grenades and scars up your piston walls.

 

yes im also waiting for the post that he is the only human that can eyeball 1mm... my vote.. yes you do need the dowel pins.. you need to resurface the head if its warped.. silicone will not fix it.. future kids reading this, please dont follow this guys steps. im cheap. im real cheap. but not delusional .i also guess hes the guy that orders a cheese burger and removes the cheese or keeps the cheese and removes the bread.

 

I could honestly care less if the engine gets taken out from the china turbo let alone a stretched rod bolt. It a $75 junkyard block and I have many of them. The whole point is to go fast on the cheapest budget possible. Like I said initially, I am not going to comment on reliability. IMHO if you have a good tune and the crankcase is full of oil its gonna hold up for a while. The car will be getting parked tomorrow so hopefully I can get some footage of the stock b20vteck today before the turbo project begins Sunday. I will probably do a build log. And I will probably link it to this page as well. Thank you for all your input even the negative stuff.

 

 

So today I got the old 1320 headers off the car and took out the factory traction bar. Took the oil pan off and welded a -10an bung to it. Got the pan back on with another ebay gasket. Installed my cast t3/t4 manifold. installed the turbo on the manifold. Clocked the oil and drain ports. Tapped an oil feed line into my sandwich plate. Made a braided drain hose and installed it. Installed the first I/C piping. Installed the wastegate but I need to shave the hood for a lil more clearance. Got the dump pipe mostly done and got my downpipe tucked close to the oil pan for maximum ground clearance. Also installed the Chinese injectors but havn't wired them yet.

 

Looks like this thread needs to be moved to the forced induction section...

i dont subscribe to many threads but i'd like to see the progress on this. There's 5 junkyards within a 10mile circle of where I live. Always toyed around the idea of slapping **** together for cheap...

 

Just an update. The vtec headed ended up having issues with cam journals on the intake side causing excessive bind and jumping of the timing belt. The car now has a stock p75 non vtec head with stock held bolts and a fel pro gasket pushing 25 psi on the t3/t4 57 trim ebay turbo.

 

25 psi on a stock headgasket and bolts ? and it jumped time and didnt smack the pistons/valves ? youre just blowing smoke and nobody gives a diddly about "ballin on budget" builds... save your $$$ and do it right the first time

 

Let me guess...it makes 600HP? Sounds like the typical "I've built so many turbo cars, I know what I'm doing". Then when you actually the see the cars in person, it looks and RUNS LIKE ***.