I need to replace my Distributor. Do I first need to drain the oil?
It's a 1994 2.2L engine. There's an oil leak coming from the distributor. I assume that since it's leaking oil now, that it's going to spill out a bunch all over the engine bay when I pull the distributor out and expose the hole.
Also, I just got an oil change about 500 miles ago (last month). The car gets used only occasionally. In fact, it's probably been closer to 200 or 30 miles since the last oil change. Can I skip replacing the filter? It seems like a waste.
Also, I just got an oil change about 500 miles ago (last month). The car gets used only occasionally. In fact, it's probably been closer to 200 or 30 miles since the last oil change. Can I skip replacing the filter? It seems like a waste.
I hope you aren't going to replace your distributor just for an oil leak! There's an o-ring on the distributor shaft that enters the head which may be the source of your leak. There's also an internal seal in the distributor that can leak. I believe if this is the culprit, there will be oil inside your distributor as well. There's instructions in the FAQ in this forum on how to do that one.
I hope you aren't going to replace your distributor just for an oil leak! There's an o-ring on the distributor shaft that enters the head which may be the source of your leak. There's also an internal seal in the distributor that can leak. I believe if this is the culprit, there will be oil inside your distributor as well. There's instructions in the FAQ in this forum on how to do that one.
did you take off the distributor yet ? was it working before you took off the distributor other than the oil leak ?
test for spark using a spark tester. you can find how to vids on youtube, or if you took the spark plug wires off you may have put them back in the wrong spots
test for spark using a spark tester. you can find how to vids on youtube, or if you took the spark plug wires off you may have put them back in the wrong spots
Something in the ignition systems isn't correct - notice the tach not moving in the second/third try at starting it.
Now why is the question - ICM on the way out, bad ign switch not sending power to the dist
Since this happens - guessing by the post - every now and then it will be hard to "test" because you can only test when it is acting up......without testing it will cost a bit of $ throwing parts at it.
Now why is the question - ICM on the way out, bad ign switch not sending power to the dist

Since this happens - guessing by the post - every now and then it will be hard to "test" because you can only test when it is acting up......without testing it will cost a bit of $ throwing parts at it.
Try testing/replacing the ignitor inside the distributor. it controls the spark to the coil and also sends the tach signal to the gauge cluster.
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did you take off the distributor yet ? was it working before you took off the distributor other than the oil leak ?
test for spark using a spark tester. you can find how to vids on youtube, or if you took the spark plug wires off you may have put them back in the wrong spots
test for spark using a spark tester. you can find how to vids on youtube, or if you took the spark plug wires off you may have put them back in the wrong spots
Something in the ignition systems isn't correct - notice the tach not moving in the second/third try at starting it.
Now why is the question - ICM on the way out, bad ign switch not sending power to the dist
Since this happens - guessing by the post - every now and then it will be hard to "test" because you can only test when it is acting up......without testing it will cost a bit of $ throwing parts at it.
Now why is the question - ICM on the way out, bad ign switch not sending power to the dist

Since this happens - guessing by the post - every now and then it will be hard to "test" because you can only test when it is acting up......without testing it will cost a bit of $ throwing parts at it.
I will take apart the old distributor once I'm done replacing it, but If the new one works, I'll probably just use the new one entirely instead of replacing just one part.
I have had an ignitor aka ignition control module fail with the exact same symptoms many years ago before I really worked on my own car. The tachometer stopped working and in my case the car would struggle to fire when cranking but then run fine. It did this for several months before refusing to fire at all. I had the same line of reasoning as GhostAccord that the ICM generates the tach signal, so I grabbed one from a junkyard really cheap to test it. $7 junkyard ICM lasted me another 10 years. There is a test procedure in the service manual for the ignitor as well.
possibly relevant info from what I've seen first hand: an oil leak from the distributor (o-ring or internal seal) can soak into and swell/weaken the heater hose under it as well harden the insulation on wires. the insulation becomes brittle, cracks and leads to wires breaking. I've even seen this inside the loom of the main harness on really bad leaks. oil leaks in just the right place can cause electrical/ignition issues.
possibly relevant info from what I've seen first hand: an oil leak from the distributor (o-ring or internal seal) can soak into and swell/weaken the heater hose under it as well harden the insulation on wires. the insulation becomes brittle, cracks and leads to wires breaking. I've even seen this inside the loom of the main harness on really bad leaks. oil leaks in just the right place can cause electrical/ignition issues.
F18A(carb) TB engine/distributor does NOT have a proper drain. When the inner seal leaks it just pisses hot oil all over the ignitor, which is very unique to the F18A... ******* thing.
Well a guess anyway... could be the fuel pump and could be the relay under the dash. Relay can get at a junque yard and fuel pump... pass
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