So I have narrowed down my search for my code 0 but the ecu is acting really strange. The main relay clicks and looks fine and so do all the grounds and fuses. Then the car just didnt recognize the ecu at all even after unplugging sensors to get the CEL to come on but still got nothing. I was thinking if a capacitor replacement kit can fix my problem. The ecu doesnt smell or have any major signs of burning. All I managed to find was a leaking capacitor at C21 and C40. I'm no ecu guru by any means, so I dont really know what to look for. The ECU is a OBD1 with a socket for a chip ( I removed the J1 jumper so I can run it as a stock ecu, don't know if that change anything) I have some pics, please lmk asap.

 

I know the car wont run without an ecu but when I unplug the ecu, it does the same thing as when it's connected.

 

anybody?? I'm really not in the market for an overpriced p28 at the moment, just trying to work with what I got

 

I'm checking out the ecu while looking, I found that my IC14 has some yellow stuff on it thats about all for now

 

Upon even further inspection, I have came to find out that my ecu is a P06 converted to vtec and not a p28, it has no chip in it, can they be the reason it wont sart the car?

 

I can tell you all of the following based on those pictures:

-non-vtec ecu converted to vtec (which requires a chip at all times now to function properly)
-it's an automatic tranny ecu, needs to be converted to 5spd, which just requires moving a few resistors around
-D5, Q102, and Q103 have been removed. I assume all 3 are necessary for the ecu to work at all. D5 is baffling me a bit though, I've never seen any components that big in a honda ecu before. The symbol is for a diode, but I don't ever recall seeing that large of a diode in any 11FO ecu's.
-the bottom of the board looks damaged where the two D5 terminals would go. That's sloppy as hell.
-whoever installed the chip kit and vtec conversion kit did a terrible job. I mean really bad. Bad enough that just that alone could have permanently damaged the ecu
-things have been laid on or dropped on that ecu with the cover off. There are a LOT of components that are bent over from things hitting them
-that ecu is almost definitely a paperweight. I repair ecu's as part of my job, and on the side. 18 years experience. And even I wouldn't bother attempting to fix it.

 

I read this yesterday and I purchased a well known p28, still did the same thing, maybe the starter froze?

 

With ignition off, check for power at pin D1; it should have power.
With ignition on, check for power at A25, B1, and D1; all 3 should have power.

Check for continuity to ground at pins A23, A24, and A26

 

It will not work without diode D5. It will probably be cheaper and easier to just find a different ECU at this point.

 

I relocated a few grounds out took out the alarm system and it started on the first crank with the new ecu.