1992 Accord 2.2 timing issues
hello everyone, I’ve come to ask y’all a question because I cannot find the info/ im not sure how to proceed from this point.
1992 Accord, 5 speed. Bought it dirt cheap and was told it needed a fuel pump. Well, I charged the battery and sure enough the pump ran and gave plenty of fuel. Next I checked spark, which it had, and changed the plugs because they had autolite plugs in a Honda....
anywho, I cranked it over and over and over and it would stutter and act like it was trying to catch but just couldn’t. So I thought I’d check the timing and now the conundrum begins. Cam pulley when set at tdc with the UP mark aligned and the two side marks aligned leaves the tdc mark on the flywheel no where to be seen. I checked the crank pulley and couldn’t see any marks that made sense as far as tdc goes. I will say, though this isn’t a super technical test, that when the cam pulley is at tdc, cylinder 1 (closest to the pulley) I believe is close to tdc, because the rockers have no pressure/can be moved up and down ever so slightly. My question ultimately is, does anyone have pictures of the timing marks, both trans and crank, and if it was off by one tooth, would that be just outside the ecu’s ability to compensate and cause this no start condition?
1992 Accord, 5 speed. Bought it dirt cheap and was told it needed a fuel pump. Well, I charged the battery and sure enough the pump ran and gave plenty of fuel. Next I checked spark, which it had, and changed the plugs because they had autolite plugs in a Honda....
anywho, I cranked it over and over and over and it would stutter and act like it was trying to catch but just couldn’t. So I thought I’d check the timing and now the conundrum begins. Cam pulley when set at tdc with the UP mark aligned and the two side marks aligned leaves the tdc mark on the flywheel no where to be seen. I checked the crank pulley and couldn’t see any marks that made sense as far as tdc goes. I will say, though this isn’t a super technical test, that when the cam pulley is at tdc, cylinder 1 (closest to the pulley) I believe is close to tdc, because the rockers have no pressure/can be moved up and down ever so slightly. My question ultimately is, does anyone have pictures of the timing marks, both trans and crank, and if it was off by one tooth, would that be just outside the ecu’s ability to compensate and cause this no start condition?
pull number 1 spark plug and set the cam at tdc and check that the piston is at the top of its stroke with a long screwdriver
some aftermarket flywheels dont have marks
some aftermarket flywheels dont have marks
Last edited by holmesnmanny; Feb 7, 2018 at 10:35 AM.
My thoughts too xD but I did check that and I would say that when the piston reaches tdc the cam is maybe two, possibly three teeth behind it, that is when the piston is traveling back down from the compression stroke the cam is just reaching tdc. So that brings the question, I know interference motors are picky but how many teeth is too many? I’d imagine that with a 70 tooth belt a roughly 5% change (3 teeth is approximately 5%) wouldn’t be too much? I’m gonna try a belt on it first and reset the timing just to be sure
My thoughts too xD but I did check that and I would say that when the piston reaches tdc the cam is maybe two, possibly three teeth behind it, that is when the piston is traveling back down from the compression stroke the cam is just reaching tdc. So that brings the question, I know interference motors are picky but how many teeth is too many? I’d imagine that with a 70 tooth belt a roughly 5% change (3 teeth is approximately 5%) wouldn’t be too much? I’m gonna try a belt on it first and reset the timing just to be sure
As mentioned above, you want to make sure that these marks are lined up with the cylinder head/valve cover matting surface when the No.1 piston is at TDC.

by GhostAccord, on Flickr

by GhostAccord, on Flickr
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