Msd cap
I’m running a msd on my distributor and I’m getting green deposits on my cap.msd doesn’t sell the caps separate only as a whole.is it ok to just use a stock cap and be gone with the msd or do I need to get a whole new distributor?
Don't be passive aggressive... it won't help your situation and doesn't endear you to the community. You posted eleven hours ago.
If you get rid of the MSD coil and external coil style cap, you can use a stock cap if you install an OE coil and rewire the distributor for the stock coil. This isn't necessarily going to fix your "green" issue... that is unless your wiring for your external coil is passing through the cap and there is a way for moisture to enter the distributor.
If you get rid of the MSD coil and external coil style cap, you can use a stock cap if you install an OE coil and rewire the distributor for the stock coil. This isn't necessarily going to fix your "green" issue... that is unless your wiring for your external coil is passing through the cap and there is a way for moisture to enter the distributor.
It came on the car.its built high compression 13:1 but it’s tuned for daily.sorry i was looking for a quick reply cause im having trouble getting my car starting.before it would start and a cel would come on when it’s warmed up.when I try to check it all it gives me I straight long blinks.i checked the cap and there was light green deposits
One straight long blink is a code 10... which is a bad IAT sensor/circuit. A short single blink would be an O2 sensor problem. Either one... or both can cause driveability issues.
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I would swap back to OEM distributor
aftermarket ignitions plays havoc on honda engines and OEM have been proven reliable.
theres an Accel internal coil #10110 i think which works great with OEM. Use OEM caps as well.
aftermarket ignitions plays havoc on honda engines and OEM have been proven reliable.
theres an Accel internal coil #10110 i think which works great with OEM. Use OEM caps as well.
Got the car started.fixed the code.think part of the problem is my main reply.but lately when I’m driving no matter what gear I’m getting an in and out tick.can hear it mostly 3k rpm and up.tick doesn’t get louder but you can hear it.kinda sounds like something small rolling around in the intake manifold.or a sound like some electrical short.any ideas?
I haven’t ran into a car that need valve last adjustment.is that what it could be?any other ways to tell on my own?will it hurt my car if I drive it like that?how much does it usually cost to have adjusted cause I can’t do it myself
Thats something you need to call your mechanic and ask for price. Everyone charges differently. Where exactly is the noise emitting?
are you mixing up the injectors noise instead? Pin point exactly where it is coming from.
are you mixing up the injectors noise instead? Pin point exactly where it is coming from.
To me to sounds like the intake manifold I thought the new iat sensor would fix it but guess not.i can’t hear it at idle but when I above 3k I can hear it and feel it from the throttle cable
you think that’s what’s causing the ticking noise.i suppose I should get a new one since I didn’t switch out my old msd cap.but the car is back to not starting again so I think I might just have to switch it to stock this time.whole new stock distributor is 70 you said?






