Subframe shims
Does anyone know of any issues one might encounter with installing shims between the subframe and body?
These are all I can think of:
-Longer subframe bolts needed
-Steering shaft
-Strut mount spacers
-Adjustable UCA's
The maximum height would need to be 1" to 1 & 1/2". It would seem to be preferable to weld on the shims.
Asking because I have an J series swapped EK with EKJ1 mounts and am exploring other options that would allow for both ground clearance and hood clearance.
These are all I can think of:
-Longer subframe bolts needed
-Steering shaft
-Strut mount spacers
-Adjustable UCA's
The maximum height would need to be 1" to 1 & 1/2". It would seem to be preferable to weld on the shims.
Asking because I have an J series swapped EK with EKJ1 mounts and am exploring other options that would allow for both ground clearance and hood clearance.
If you're going to use 1 inch spacers between the unibody and the front subframe, 3 on each side, than you're going to need a spacer for the strut assembly.
So lets say you raise the front by 1inch how does the car, as a whole, look to you now when all is said and done?
So lets say you raise the front by 1inch how does the car, as a whole, look to you now when all is said and done?
If you're going to use 1 inch spacers between the unibody and the front subframe, 3 on each side, than you're going to need a spacer for the strut assembly.
So lets say you raise the front by 1inch how does the car, as a whole, look to you now when all is said and done?
So lets say you raise the front by 1inch how does the car, as a whole, look to you now when all is said and done?
Yes, sir. I mentioned the spacers for the strut assembly in the OP as strut mount spacers. I already am using some exhaust pipe flanges between the strut mounts and strut towers to help keep my camber alignment closer to spec.
As to how the car looks, I really don't think an inch is going to look that bad as the back end is already up pretty high, and the front is squatting due to the weight of the J30. Besides, this isn't so much about looks as it is about functionality (hood clearance while maintaining ground clearance).
As to how the car looks, I really don't think an inch is going to look that bad as the back end is already up pretty high, and the front is squatting due to the weight of the J30. Besides, this isn't so much about looks as it is about functionality (hood clearance while maintaining ground clearance).
it will kind of ruin the suspension geometry. LCA mounts to the sub-frame, shock/spring and UCA mount to the unibody. 1/4" spacer would be enough to- at minimum mess with the front roll center.
why the aversion to hood modification and fabricated oil pans?
why the aversion to hood modification and fabricated oil pans?
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"it will kind of ruin the suspension geometry."
Yup, which is why I had mentioned adjustable UCA's.
"LCA mounts to the sub-frame, shock/spring and UCA mount to the unibody."
Might could look into CRV knuckles if they're taller. I'll have to recheck how the CRV struts mount to the strut tower, but they may work.
"1/4" spacer would be enough to- at minimum mess with the front roll center."
Now this is particularly the kind of input I'm looking for. Don't know why i didn't think of that. How adverse do you think it could be?
"why the aversion to hood modification and fabricated oil pans?"
Hood modification and fabbed pans = $$ Well... maybe not the fabbed hood in my case (bro-in-law is a body man), but I'm trying to think of what may help others with setups like mine. I guess the CRV parts would be $$ too though. Lol! There would be no need for chopping up the hood so much and no great concern for ground clearance in order to make it fit and have it more stockish looking even though there's a V6 in it.
"LCA mounts to the sub-frame, shock/spring and UCA mount to the unibody."
Might could look into CRV knuckles if they're taller. I'll have to recheck how the CRV struts mount to the strut tower, but they may work.
"1/4" spacer would be enough to- at minimum mess with the front roll center."
Now this is particularly the kind of input I'm looking for. Don't know why i didn't think of that. How adverse do you think it could be?
"why the aversion to hood modification and fabricated oil pans?"
Hood modification and fabbed pans = $$ Well... maybe not the fabbed hood in my case (bro-in-law is a body man), but I'm trying to think of what may help others with setups like mine. I guess the CRV parts would be $$ too though. Lol! There would be no need for chopping up the hood so much and no great concern for ground clearance in order to make it fit and have it more stockish looking even though there's a V6 in it.
I was going to say it will change your weight balance which in turn affects handling on many levels. More than I can speak to.
Not only are you raising the center of balance but you are moving it to the rear. This in turn reduces front traction and control.
If the rear is raised the same amount as the front, the front/rear bias stays the same, just the center of gravity rises reducing performance aspects people get when they lower the car.
Not only are you raising the center of balance but you are moving it to the rear. This in turn reduces front traction and control.
If the rear is raised the same amount as the front, the front/rear bias stays the same, just the center of gravity rises reducing performance aspects people get when they lower the car.
"it will kind of ruin the suspension geometry."
Yup, which is why I had mentioned adjustable UCA's.
"LCA mounts to the sub-frame, shock/spring and UCA mount to the unibody."
Might could look into CRV knuckles if they're taller. I'll have to recheck how the CRV struts mount to the strut tower, but they may work.
"1/4" spacer would be enough to- at minimum mess with the front roll center."
Now this is particularly the kind of input I'm looking for. Don't know why i didn't think of that. How adverse do you think it could be?
"why the aversion to hood modification and fabricated oil pans?"
Hood modification and fabbed pans = $$ Well... maybe not the fabbed hood in my case (bro-in-law is a body man), but I'm trying to think of what may help others with setups like mine. I guess the CRV parts would be $$ too though. Lol! There would be no need for chopping up the hood so much and no great concern for ground clearance in order to make it fit and have it more stockish looking even though there's a V6 in it.
"LCA mounts to the sub-frame, shock/spring and UCA mount to the unibody."
Might could look into CRV knuckles if they're taller. I'll have to recheck how the CRV struts mount to the strut tower, but they may work.
"1/4" spacer would be enough to- at minimum mess with the front roll center."
Now this is particularly the kind of input I'm looking for. Don't know why i didn't think of that. How adverse do you think it could be?
"why the aversion to hood modification and fabricated oil pans?"
Hood modification and fabbed pans = $$ Well... maybe not the fabbed hood in my case (bro-in-law is a body man), but I'm trying to think of what may help others with setups like mine. I guess the CRV parts would be $$ too though. Lol! There would be no need for chopping up the hood so much and no great concern for ground clearance in order to make it fit and have it more stockish looking even though there's a V6 in it.
Sorry, Tony! I meant control arms with adjustable ball joints.
thanks for the input, guys. This is not looking like a good idea for my setup. Maybe for someone looking into a lifted AWD, but not me. Just gonna build a hood, I guess.
thanks for the input, guys. This is not looking like a good idea for my setup. Maybe for someone looking into a lifted AWD, but not me. Just gonna build a hood, I guess.
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