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Hey Honda Friends! I’m new to the forum so pardon my ignorance. I just inherited a 97 Accord LxV6 Sedan with 68K on the clock with a minor whiskey dent. This will be my daughters car and the vehicle is in relatively good condition. Due to it being 20 years old and having cracked drive belts I figure it is a good fail safe measure to replace the timing belt, water pump, drive belts and spark plugs. I have been unable to locate any free manuals online and decent videos for the replacement of the timing belt and water pump. Does anyone have any how tos on the process. The drive belts are a no brainer and it looks like the harmonic balancer will be a little pain, but since I’m new to Honda I don’t want to run into any snafu’s. Any help old be appreciated as most info I have located are on the 4 cylinder and not the 6 cylinder. Im mechanically savvy as I’ve rebuilt engines, etc but it’s been American Iron blocks, and motorcycles. I would appreciate the help. Also advice on OEM vs any aftermarket parts advice.
Some people insist on buying factory parts, but at least for the 4 cylinders, Gates is the belt OEM. People were having problems with the water pumps in the Gates branded belt/water pump combos though (again for 4 cylinders). Aisin was a popular alternative.
Tech8 and PerformanceFirst thank you both for the reply’s and link! I will order some parts tomorrow! Can’t wait to get this road worthy. Definitely worth the investment for this low mileage car. Thanks again!
Ok, so after getting all my parts I removed the accessory belts and the crankshaft pully. The crankshaft pully was a PITA. I tried two air ratchets and special impact socket and it would not come off. I tried a power bar with a 5’ long cheater bar and the bar only flexed. This was in addition to also using the crankshaft pully holder. I had to resort to using a power bar and lodge it into place under the a arm assembly and bump the starter to get it loose. I removed the timing cover but did not realize I had loosened the timing belt tensioner too much and it came completely off while the cover was in place. I wasn’t aware the bolt head sticking through the cover was the tensioner for the timing belt. I should have been more aware of this but I was using an air ratchet during the process. Anyhow during my aligning of timing mark on the crankshaft the belt had jumped and the rear camshaft had rotated forward. To remedy this I removed the rear valve cover, loosened the camshaft follower and rotated the camshaft into place. After all the headache was over and the new belt in place I double checked the timing marks by rotating the crankshaft 5-6 times to ensure the belt was seated correctly and no possible timing misalignment or valve and piston interference. I buttoned everything else up and started it up. No engine noise, but the Check engine light came on during a test drive. I used my obdII scanner and it gave me two codes independent of each other during clearing of the codes. P1361 and P1382 are the codes. I purchased a new crank position sensor and installed it. I still get the recurring codes but independent of each other. I have inspected both wiring harnesses and the wires and connectors are clean and not frayed. I checked the resistance on both the new and old crank and camshaft position centers and get 2.1 kohms. At this point I’m at a loss as there were no codes or CEL prior to the timing belt replacement, etc. any input would be appreciated. The engine has no noise en the CEL light comes on it will not rev out past 3500 rpm, and it starts to idle at a lower and rough rpm. Could the pcm be going south. Starting to get frustrated.
I've never done the 2.7, but I've done the 2.2, 2.3 and the 3.0. Is there any way the ring the sensor is looking at is flipped? I'm not sure it's possible, just thinking out loud. Also, double check the pigtail for the sensor isn't plugged in the wrong harness.
ive thought about the ring sensor but it isn’t flipped. I’ve attached photos of the crank position sensor before I replaced it and the new one is installed the same direction. It’s hard to get wrong since there is a lug mount protruding to facilitate correct mounting. I was thinking about the crankshaft pulley spacer as well. I’m starting to feel stumped. I’ve attached photos of the sensor, and the code readouts that continue to appear.