So I am sure this has been covered, and I’m still searching around here but i guess since i dont know exactly what to look for, I’m getting a ton of stuff and am looking to narrow it down.

Took my car out on my lunch break today, started up fine, took a turn from a light and next thing i know its bogging down on me. The car wouldn’t go over 20 and was struggling to even stay running. Coasted to a stop alongside the road.

My first assumption was my gas gauge was off. It was around 1/8th of a tank but i figured maybe something was a little messed up there and i just ran out of gas. Snagged a gas can and put a few gallons in, nothing.

when i go to try to start it, i’m Pretty sure i hear the fuel pump priming and all of the usual noises in the car (although i cant say that i paid much attention to them before) and it just cranks.

Luckily i was able to get the guy who drives our roll back here at the dealership i work at to bring it back to our lot, and during the week i have a few hours after work with access to the shop, but i dont really know where to start looking. I’ve done minor repairs and maintenance, never really needed to do too much trouble shooting like this.

I know that i’ll Need to confirm that there is fuel, air and spark, good way to test that the fuel pump is actually working? And what would be the easiest way to make sure the distributor is still working? Probably going to try to pick up a manual this weekend, since i wont get a chance to look at it until Monday anyways, so I appreciate some help with places to check and look.

 

If you don't have access to a fuel pressure gauge, you can turn the key on and off a few times without cranking to prime the fuel system, then crack open the banjo bolt on the engine side of the fuel filter (put a rag over it). If the fuel pump is priming, you will have some gas spray out.

 

I'd check the vac line to the MAP sensor too.

 

As for the distributor, pull the cap and check all the contact areas for pitting and corrosion. Check the rotor isn't worn and that it's tightened to the shaft - check that for play as well. Not sure how to verify the coil is sending appropriate current, hopefully somebody else knows. I've only ever seen them fail outright, don't know how often they half-**** screwing up.

Did it throw a CEL? Any codes?

 

No CEL shown, lines going to the MAP are secure and dont look to be in bad condition, everything is plugged in. But since the rain finally took a little pause here, i was able to play around a little under the hood to see if anything looked out of place and it looks like I’ve got coolant on the block by the exhaust manifold and some on the intake manifold as well. Plus the cover to the timing components looks like its cracked and broken, cant say i noticed this before

 

Timing cover doesn't surprise me. Over-torqueing those bolts eventually busts the plastic about like that, so I doubt it's related. It might still be worth checking - you'll need to pull the valve cover to get it off correctly, unless it's broken more than just there.

That coolant doesn't give me the warm fuzzies though. Do you have the ability to check compression?

 

It looks like the front bolt is cracked as well, but I plan on pulling it to check out what’s going on underneath there. Where the timing cover is broken, there isn’t a bolt there anymore, but i’m pretty sure there was one last time i was under the hood.

 

pop the fuel return line off the FPR fuel pressure regulator. its a simple clamp and rubber hose. prime the pump, youll know quickly if the pump is working.

 

Got a chance to take a real look at the car today, and when i got into it it looks like it really jumped timing, plus the timing belt is a little ripped up.

I need to look into it more but there was a TON of slack on the belt (I was able to slide it right off without touching anything else, and once I found the timing marks on the crank pulley (which is also missing a chunk) it was not at TDC. The photo of the cam gear is where it is when lined up at TDC on the crank pulley. It looks like it was almost 4-5 teeth off. Maybe I am missing something but that doesnt seem to be good. Looks like I may have to get it towed somewhere to put some more work into it

 

Holy **** that belt is hanging on by the skin of its teeth. That coolant looks like it could be from the water pump, which wouldn't surprise me if the belt looks like that, usually they're replaced together.

 

I think the rubber boots was on the tensioner spring. The spring probably broke off. Maybe from rust from water pump leaking.

Anyway, you have a timing belt, tensioner and water pump replacement to do. That's probably just it. Honestly not too bad.

 

That doesnt seem too bad, should be something i can take care of over a weekend. Should i be concerned about the crank pulley missing that chunk from it? From the rust on it it looks like its been gone for a while, but since I will be tearing a lot of stuff apart there, would it be wise to just replace it now?

 

i wouldnt be too worried over that chip, it does imbalance the pulley but i guess im saying not enough for me to care. i had the same thing happen when trying to lock the pulley to remove the bolt, its a tight one. so that chip looks familiar.

but i lock it differently now by using the radial holes and a breaker bar to lock the pulley.

anyway, if you want to replace it, im sure you can find a used, better condition, no rust california junkyard pulley, and when you do the rest of the work would be the time to replace it. but up to you if you want to do it.