so freakin cold Mr. Bigglesworth.
went to slide the spider for heat the other morning ad it was stuck, so I forced it and then it jumped to the right but now two things, just almost warm air and the slider has a very limited range and is not smooth. It will only go to just the middle when I try to slide it back and then almost to the right but something is wrong.. I'm wondering if I jumped some plastic gears? I tried to manually open the heat valve under the hood but it seems there is resistance to it opening all the way, I am guessing the same parts that are hooked in to it to slide it to the open position are now stopping it from getting there?

 

This is my second problem that TomCat39 merged into this thread. Help appreciated.

 

The mechanism is on the bottom of the heater box, right in the center of the car over the "hump" for the exhaust pipe. You can reach it without taking anything apart. There is one cable that comes from the slider on the dash which moves a lever that controls another cable that goes to the valve under the hood, and also a push rod to the air door. Moving the lever by hand will do the same thing that the dash slider used to do, it will direct the air through the heater core and also turn the coolant valve on.

To remove glove box (which you do NOT have to do for this job), unscrew the hinges at the bottom. This is easiest to do with it in the closed position, then pop the latch and the whole box will come out.

 

Thank you. I pushed on white plastic piece that seemed to move when I moved the slider and it did seem to be connected to a metal rod under the hood. When the heater valve is wide open, what does it look like? Should it be horizontal or vertical? I'm guessing horizontal. It is not fully horizontal so maybe there's something wrong with the valve but I'll test it out next time I drive. Got to get some heat.

 

It didn't work. Still no heat. Tried pushing it and pulling it then looked under the hood and found the cable attached to the heater lever was bent so I disconnected it so I could move it by hand and it doesn't matter, in either full stop position, no heat...help! Thanks. Minus 15 coming in two nights...

 

You best bet is to go to the salvage yard and get another b pipe.

I'm assuming your cat is under the car and not in the exhaust manifold.

 

Tomcat: Yes cat is under the car. It is called a b pipe? Thank you.

 

With the heater valve, which way is open? I attached a diagram.
is it up towards the front or back towards the firewall?

 

Diagram of heater valve

 

Sorry it's called the A pipe. I was considering the header as the A pipe but it's the header. A pipe is the first pipe after the header. (Sometimes refered to as the A pipe for the A shape on the vtec exhaust and J pipe on the non vtec exhaust).



Part for the vtec A pipe:


Part for the non vtec A pipe (J pipe):

 

Towards the firewall is coolant flow through the valve (open).

After replacing my heater core, every time I pushed the temp to all cold it pushed that wire off the valve arm and I wouldn't not get heat until I put it back on.

 

Ok thanks. I pushed it towards the firewall and I reached under the glove box side and pushed the rod to the other position, hopefully the air door is now aligned right to get some heater action. I could sure use some luck. My 3 hour drive looms. Escaping the storm. Dreading the drive if no heat but I got some sorrel boots in the back just in case. Yikes!

 

New plan, leave at 3am and drive at night. Fingers crossed on the heat...

 

If not heat, try the valve in the other position!

 

So some heat. Better than none and it really saved me. Maybe the valve needs to go farther or the heater core is a bit blocked. When it gets warmer I'll chbe ck the hose on the other side of the valve and see if it is as hot as before it. But unfortunately the leak at the mating surface of the b pipe meant that with heat came in exhaust. Some. So I had to crack the window open when heating and it went on and off and open and closed for ...3 hours. I gotta see about getting tha b pipe replaced or maybe welded to the flange. I think there is a donut gasket and the spring bolts there as it meets the cat and I understand this flexing is important. I was told I may need an oil pan at some point so maybe it makes sense to d the two at the same time. If I make it through this cold snap...yikes!
thank you for all the help. Couldn't have done much without the support. Thank you.

 

Technically it's called an A pipe. I posted the part numbers and descriptions above regardless if you are vtec or non vtec.

 

The front pipe usually lasts a long time, consider removing one from a junk car. Or you could install a header, which replaces everything from the engine to the inlet of the cat with one piece.

 

Many of the 4-2-1 headers are 2 pieces for this car. But it does replace the stock ones with better 4-2-1 units.

 

 

Shoot, I just figured out this was a combination of two threads! You need a B-pipe? I have my old one that I replaced when I went with headers...

 

That would be my fault, new user, two posts back to back about the same car. Only one of the threads had any car make model details so felt it was wiser to make it into the car specific thread most are used to so at least some of the car details were present for both problems.

OP also hasn't stated which trim he has so don't know if it's the 2 pipe A pipe or the single pipe J pipe they are needing (vtec or non vtec).

 

No, that makes total sense, I just was not reading carefully.

Well, if the OP needs the 2-pipe A pipe, they can holla...

 

Hey thanks!
its a basic dx hatchback. Automatic. 1.5 liter. It's cold and there's a lot f snow but I can try to look under to see if you need me to.

Also: new problem. Seems steering wheel has a shudder to it. Seems t come and go a bit. Was there today and seemed more shuddery, kind of jerking back and forth. When I took a let turn it went away for. Bit. Could this be loose lug nuts?

 

Do you know how to check your ball joints, tie rod end links etc?

 

If you think your lug nuts may be loose, go and check them already, there's no need to ask people on the Internet.

Like TomCat said you should jack up the car one wheel at a time and try to shake the wheel around while it is off the ground wheels to see if anything is loose.

A DX would have a single front exhaust pipe (A pipe) not the EX type one with 2 pipes in parallel that join near the converter. You could use the EX style pipe if you also replace the exhaust manifold.