CEL not working at all!
Hey guys.
I'm new to the Honda game and I'm still learning new stuff each day. My current problem I have now is I have a 91 Ef SI with a jdm ITR swap. I can't get the V tec to activate. The wiring is correct but my CEL won't light up at all I change bulb and still the same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I'm new to the Honda game and I'm still learning new stuff each day. My current problem I have now is I have a 91 Ef SI with a jdm ITR swap. I can't get the V tec to activate. The wiring is correct but my CEL won't light up at all I change bulb and still the same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
A few questions:
Do you know which generation of on-board diagnostics your car is running (OBD0, OBD1, or OBD2)?
What condition is the wiring in?
Does the CEL come on then turn off when you turn your key to the ON position?
Do you know which generation of on-board diagnostics your car is running (OBD0, OBD1, or OBD2)?
What condition is the wiring in?
Does the CEL come on then turn off when you turn your key to the ON position?
I'm running an obd 1 bumper harness. CEL is completely not working at all, even in the ON position it' still don't work. Harness is brand new
Disconnect the A-connector on the ECU, then disconnect the 12-pin and 8-pin connectors on the back of the gauge cluster. Check continuity from A13 on the ECU harness (GRN/ORN) to the GRN/ORN wire at the 12-pin plug on the back of the cluster. Next, turn the key to the ON position, then verify that the YEL wire on the 8-pin plug is at 12V relative to ground. If both check out, the wiring should be good all the way up to the cluster...turn the key off and reconnect both connectors to the cluster and the A connector to the ECU.
With the key off, connect a test light to a known good switched 12V source and then probe ECU pin A13. Have someone turn the key to the ON position...your test light should turn on and then turn off if there are no codes to pull (it is now your temporary check engine light). If it does not come on at all, I would think you may have something wrong with the ECU.
With the key off, connect a test light to a known good switched 12V source and then probe ECU pin A13. Have someone turn the key to the ON position...your test light should turn on and then turn off if there are no codes to pull (it is now your temporary check engine light). If it does not come on at all, I would think you may have something wrong with the ECU.
Disconnect the A-connector on the ECU, then disconnect the 12-pin and 8-pin connectors on the back of the gauge cluster. Check continuity from A13 on the ECU harness (GRN/ORN) to the GRN/ORN wire at the 12-pin plug on the back of the cluster. Next, turn the key to the ON position, then verify that the YEL wire on the 8-pin plug is at 12V relative to ground. If both check out, the wiring should be good all the way up to the cluster...turn the key off and reconnect both connectors to the cluster and the A connector to the ECU.
With the key off, connect a test light to a known good switched 12V source and then probe ECU pin A13. Have someone turn the key to the ON position...your test light should turn on and then turn off if there are no codes to pull (it is now your temporary check engine light). If it does not come on at all, I would think you may have something wrong with the ECU.
With the key off, connect a test light to a known good switched 12V source and then probe ECU pin A13. Have someone turn the key to the ON position...your test light should turn on and then turn off if there are no codes to pull (it is now your temporary check engine light). If it does not come on at all, I would think you may have something wrong with the ECU.
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