trouble 1996 honda civic
Hello and thanks for your answers before hand. I have a 1996 Honda civic 1.6 non vtec I bought for school (gas mileage). I bought it with zero lights on the dash. I got it smogged no problem. Next day, check engine light comes on. I run to autozone and they tell me its the catalytic converter. I figure I can run it still, just for the time being until I can find time to fix it. 15 miles in to my 250 mile trip the car loses all engine power. while coasting down the freeway about 60 mph I pop start it in 4th gear. Starts right up and I turn around to go home and grab my pickup. When I get home the car dies right infront of my house. Then, it would not start, turn over just find but no start. I pop the hood and upon further inspection realize my top radiator house is very hot and very firm. I then feel the lower hose to find that it is very soft and very cold (27*f at the time). I'm confused on what to do next. PS; Brand new battery and checked all fuses. Thanks again guys any help is appreciated.
-Dillon
-Dillon
It's normal for the top radiator hose to be hot and the bottom one cold, that is how a radiator works.
Since it now consistently cranks but won't start, you'd go through the "cranks but won't start" troubleshooting drill that applies to any car:
Spark
Fuel
Compression
Timing
First thing to check is turn the key on but don't crank, the check engine light should come on then go out. During this time the fuel pump runs then stops. If it does that that means the ECU (engine computer) is booting up and doing basic functions. The oil and battery lights should come on and stay on like they would any time the key is on but the engine is not turning. Pull the brake handle up and observe the brake warning light comes on, it should stay on even while cranking. This light is powered from the same circuit that runs the ignition system. Next test would be to see if the spark plugs fire.
Since it now consistently cranks but won't start, you'd go through the "cranks but won't start" troubleshooting drill that applies to any car:
Spark
Fuel
Compression
Timing
First thing to check is turn the key on but don't crank, the check engine light should come on then go out. During this time the fuel pump runs then stops. If it does that that means the ECU (engine computer) is booting up and doing basic functions. The oil and battery lights should come on and stay on like they would any time the key is on but the engine is not turning. Pull the brake handle up and observe the brake warning light comes on, it should stay on even while cranking. This light is powered from the same circuit that runs the ignition system. Next test would be to see if the spark plugs fire.
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