Civic B Series No Start/Crank *NEED HELP*
My car is a 2000 Honda civic SI with an lsv swap.
So just recently, my car hasn't been able to start at all. Every time I try to turn the key to start, instead of cranking over, I would hear the fuel pump turn on as I turn the key and turns back off when I let go of the key.
My main relay clicks, I've checked the G101 thermostat ground, tranny ground, and body ground. All seem to work. I even tried cleaning the G101 ground but nothing seems to change. I've tried changing the ecu and nothing changes. I also changed the ignition switch and nothing. Also whacking the starter doesn't help at all.
So just recently, my car hasn't been able to start at all. Every time I try to turn the key to start, instead of cranking over, I would hear the fuel pump turn on as I turn the key and turns back off when I let go of the key.
My main relay clicks, I've checked the G101 thermostat ground, tranny ground, and body ground. All seem to work. I even tried cleaning the G101 ground but nothing seems to change. I've tried changing the ecu and nothing changes. I also changed the ignition switch and nothing. Also whacking the starter doesn't help at all.
Check the clutch pedal switch. The starter circuit is rather simple-- ignition switch to clutch switch and relay if manual to the starter. I don't think there's even a fuse in the line. The ECU, main relay, ECU ground etc. are not involved in making the starter turn. Of course a problem with those would cause a cranks but won't start situation.
Go under the hood and jump the small terminal on the starter to the battery +. That should make the starter turn, proving the battery, starter, and large power and ground wires are OK. Be sure the key is off, transmission in neutral, and hand brake applied when doing that so the car doesn't move inadvertently.
Go under the hood and jump the small terminal on the starter to the battery +. That should make the starter turn, proving the battery, starter, and large power and ground wires are OK. Be sure the key is off, transmission in neutral, and hand brake applied when doing that so the car doesn't move inadvertently.
The factory clutch switch pad is dark blue in color... look on the floor and see if there are any pieces of it. When they break, you usually find pie cut shaped pieces and a cone shaped plunger. If you find such objects, you can manually depress the clutch switch and start the car. You can also unplug the clutch switch, place a U-shaped paper clip into the plug, and start the car. This bypasses the clutch switch, so make sure you still depress the clutch while starting... and make sure it is out of gear while doing so.
Replacing the clutch pad is easy. Purchase one from the dealership, backside tape it to a long flat blade screwdriver, insert it up inside the clutch pedal housing and align the plunger end with the hole in the top of the clutch pedal arm... pushing the clutch pedal to the floor will pinch the screwdriver and the clutch pad between the pedal arm and the clutch switch... once you have seated the clutch pad into the clutch pedal, you can remove the screwdriver and tape.
Replacing the clutch pad is easy. Purchase one from the dealership, backside tape it to a long flat blade screwdriver, insert it up inside the clutch pedal housing and align the plunger end with the hole in the top of the clutch pedal arm... pushing the clutch pedal to the floor will pinch the screwdriver and the clutch pad between the pedal arm and the clutch switch... once you have seated the clutch pad into the clutch pedal, you can remove the screwdriver and tape.
i had this exact issue last week with my b20v and it was the main relay. car was running for a while, but died one morning and wouldnt start / crank over. thought it was my alternator / starter. i replaced my main relay from advance auto (use a coupon since theyre just over $50 to drop it to around 35). swap that puppy out and started right up. hope this helps, mate! its pretty easy-
one step to save some hassle, however------- when you go to screw the bolt back in, for the relay, screw it in from the ECU side, rather than the outside, that way, should you have another issue, you dont have to remove your panels which is a pain in the ***.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...erm=main+relay
Part number R4803
..
one thing of precaution though..... my buddy, whos a reputable tuner, said that you should get an OEM relay down the road, because they arent too great.... just a tip
one step to save some hassle, however------- when you go to screw the bolt back in, for the relay, screw it in from the ECU side, rather than the outside, that way, should you have another issue, you dont have to remove your panels which is a pain in the ***.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...erm=main+relay
Part number R4803
..
one thing of precaution though..... my buddy, whos a reputable tuner, said that you should get an OEM relay down the road, because they arent too great.... just a tip
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My clutch switch is bypassed. I tried just starting it without the clutch pedal bypassed and not plugged in, and it just won't start just because the ecu doesn't detect the clutch pedal is pressed in. But whenever I try to start it, turning the key just turns on the fuel pump until I drop the key. Not starting it like its supposed to. I tried jumping the starter to the battery but it only sparked. I'm guessing because I need to find a bigger gauged jumper wire.
The factory clutch switch pad is dark blue in color... look on the floor and see if there are any pieces of it. When they break, you usually find pie cut shaped pieces and a cone shaped plunger. If you find such objects, you can manually depress the clutch switch and start the car. You can also unplug the clutch switch, place a U-shaped paper clip into the plug, and start the car. This bypasses the clutch switch, so make sure you still depress the clutch while starting... and make sure it is out of gear while doing so.
Replacing the clutch pad is easy. Purchase one from the dealership, backside tape it to a long flat blade screwdriver, insert it up inside the clutch pedal housing and align the plunger end with the hole in the top of the clutch pedal arm... pushing the clutch pedal to the floor will pinch the screwdriver and the clutch pad between the pedal arm and the clutch switch... once you have seated the clutch pad into the clutch pedal, you can remove the screwdriver and tape.
Replacing the clutch pad is easy. Purchase one from the dealership, backside tape it to a long flat blade screwdriver, insert it up inside the clutch pedal housing and align the plunger end with the hole in the top of the clutch pedal arm... pushing the clutch pedal to the floor will pinch the screwdriver and the clutch pad between the pedal arm and the clutch switch... once you have seated the clutch pad into the clutch pedal, you can remove the screwdriver and tape.
i had this exact issue last week with my b20v and it was the main relay. car was running for a while, but died one morning and wouldnt start / crank over. thought it was my alternator / starter. i replaced my main relay from advance auto (use a coupon since theyre just over $50 to drop it to around 35). swap that puppy out and started right up. hope this helps, mate! its pretty easy-
one step to save some hassle, however------- when you go to screw the bolt back in, for the relay, screw it in from the ECU side, rather than the outside, that way, should you have another issue, you dont have to remove your panels which is a pain in the ***.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...erm=main+relay
Part number R4803
..
one thing of precaution though..... my buddy, whos a reputable tuner, said that you should get an OEM relay down the road, because they arent too great.... just a tip
one step to save some hassle, however------- when you go to screw the bolt back in, for the relay, screw it in from the ECU side, rather than the outside, that way, should you have another issue, you dont have to remove your panels which is a pain in the ***.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...erm=main+relay
Part number R4803
..
one thing of precaution though..... my buddy, whos a reputable tuner, said that you should get an OEM relay down the road, because they arent too great.... just a tip
I had this problem about a month ago but randomly my car would start with no problem. Now suddenly, this problem just came up and I don't know what to do. Right now, my main relay isn't screwed onto anything, it's just plugged in. It was never screwed onto something since I got the car back in 2014 with the original motor. Also my panels are already out from trying to trace this problem so it shouldn't be a pain haha. I hope changing the main relay does fix the problem since I need this car up and running for a car show next month.
If the starter doesn't turn when you jump it, the problem is either the starter, battery, or the big power and ground wires between the battery and the starter. Or possibly the engine is seized (this makes a big clunk but it doesn't turn).
Again, the main relay is not involved in turning the starter on. Replacing it is not going to help. It appears the problem is under the hood.
Again, the main relay is not involved in turning the starter on. Replacing it is not going to help. It appears the problem is under the hood.
Agreed, if starter doesn’t turn when you jump it to battery, your starter is probably bad.
They can also bench test it at most auto parts stores if you take it in.
The only components in the starter circuit are the ignition switch, starter relay, clutch switch and there is a fuse for the starter signal wire.
They can also bench test it at most auto parts stores if you take it in.
The only components in the starter circuit are the ignition switch, starter relay, clutch switch and there is a fuse for the starter signal wire.
If the starter doesn't turn when you jump it, the problem is either the starter, battery, or the big power and ground wires between the battery and the starter. Or possibly the engine is seized (this makes a big clunk but it doesn't turn).
Again, the main relay is not involved in turning the starter on. Replacing it is not going to help. It appears the problem is under the hood.
Again, the main relay is not involved in turning the starter on. Replacing it is not going to help. It appears the problem is under the hood.
I had this problem a month ago and I was trying to trace the problem. Then I turned the key and the car started. Now the problem just came back.
I'll try jump the starter with whatever wire I could find.
Agreed, if starter doesn’t turn when you jump it to battery, your starter is probably bad.
They can also bench test it at most auto parts stores if you take it in.
The only components in the starter circuit are the ignition switch, starter relay, clutch switch and there is a fuse for the starter signal wire.
They can also bench test it at most auto parts stores if you take it in.
The only components in the starter circuit are the ignition switch, starter relay, clutch switch and there is a fuse for the starter signal wire.
I've changed the ignition switch, still no change.
I'll look into the starter relay because I noticed that one time I tried starting the car and looked on the fuse box, the starter relay was getting hot. Don't know if that's normal.
The clutch switch works. Right now it's bypassed. When I take off the paper clip for the clutch switch, car won't start (No fuel pump turns on when I turn the key)
Then when I put the paper clip back on the clutch switch, I can hear the fuel pump as I turn the key.
Where's the fuse location for the starter signal wire? If it's underneath the under-hood fuse box, then it's good because all my fuses work. (Checked with test light)
I believe there is a starter signal fuse under the dash.
Try bypassing the starter relay. The only purpose of it is to allow power to the starter when the clutch switch in engaged. Bypassing the clutch switch, causing the starter relay to always be engaged can cause it to corrode and get a bad connection.
Try bypassing the starter relay. The only purpose of it is to allow power to the starter when the clutch switch in engaged. Bypassing the clutch switch, causing the starter relay to always be engaged can cause it to corrode and get a bad connection.
Use a decent size wire to jump the starter. Something like 12 or 14 gage. At least lamp cord or larger. If that does not work, the problem is definitely one of the main parts under the hood, you would use a voltmeter to troubleshoot further.
Fuel pump coming on means that the fuse is good.
Fuel pump coming on means that the fuse is good.
My clutch switch is bypassed. I tried just starting it without the clutch pedal bypassed and not plugged in, and it just won't start just because the ecu doesn't detect the clutch pedal is pressed in. But whenever I try to start it, turning the key just turns on the fuel pump until I drop the key. Not starting it like its supposed to. I tried jumping the starter to the battery but it only sparked. I'm guessing because I need to find a bigger gauged jumper wire.
I believe there is a starter signal fuse under the dash.
Try bypassing the starter relay. The only purpose of it is to allow power to the starter when the clutch switch in engaged. Bypassing the clutch switch, causing the starter relay to always be engaged can cause it to corrode and get a bad connection.
Try bypassing the starter relay. The only purpose of it is to allow power to the starter when the clutch switch in engaged. Bypassing the clutch switch, causing the starter relay to always be engaged can cause it to corrode and get a bad connection.
Use a decent size wire to jump the starter. Something like 12 or 14 gage. At least lamp cord or larger. If that does not work, the problem is definitely one of the main parts under the hood, you would use a voltmeter to troubleshoot further.
Fuel pump coming on means that the fuse is good.
Fuel pump coming on means that the fuse is good.
mk378 is troubleshooting this correctly, it sounds like either a bad starter. Or the starter is jammed up from turning(worse). Assuming your battery has enough power to turn the starter over.
I’ve tried jumping it yesterday with a really small 16 gauge wire. So once I get home I’ll try jumping it with a much bigger (12 gauge wire)
But I had his problem a month ago and I tried tracing it but couldn’t find the problem. Then I randomly started the car and it would run fine. Now just recently, the problem just came back two days ago.
My battery is fully charged. I have no doubt from that.
I’ve tried jumping it yesterday with a really small 16 gauge wire. So once I get home I’ll try jumping it with a much bigger (12 gauge wire)
But I had his problem a month ago and I tried tracing it but couldn’t find the problem. Then I randomly started the car and it would run fine. Now just recently, the problem just came back two days ago.
I’ve tried jumping it yesterday with a really small 16 gauge wire. So once I get home I’ll try jumping it with a much bigger (12 gauge wire)
But I had his problem a month ago and I tried tracing it but couldn’t find the problem. Then I randomly started the car and it would run fine. Now just recently, the problem just came back two days ago.
That wire is big enough, you are just powering up the starter solenoid. Jump from the power wire on starter to the signal, you don't need a big wire. The factory signal wire is tiny, that's all you need. Also check yo make sure the stater has a good ground. I think from factory there is a ground on the trans as well as the one off the front of the valve cover, make sure they are all sound.








