So before I combine my transmission and engine in holy matrimony, I’d like to replace things that usually go bad in transmissions while it’s out of the vehicle, popular answer is clutch but I’m wondering if there’s anything else?

i am not certain what transmission I have, however it came out of a 2000 Integra GSR. The only stamps I can find I will post photos of! Please help if you can, Thanks in advance!

 

If you have extra money, sure do a full rebuild or just replace the syncros. If you don't have a bunch of extra cash like myself, I'd just replace the clutch if needed and put a couple new OE axle seals on it and run it. Then if you have a bad shift you can just replace those syncros when you can.

 

I'd pick up a synchrotech rebuild kit with the carbon lined synchronizers, I used one of their kits in my transmission rebuild last year. The kit includes OEM seals, OEM NTN bearings, and the synchrotech synchronizers and it's actually cheaper than buying it all separately. Excellent customer service too.

Carbon Rebuild Kit 94-01 GSR/ ITR/ B16 - Synchrotech Transmissions Inc

A few things to keep in mind if you've never done a transmission before, this is stuff I found in my research beforehand as well as while in the process of doing the rebuild.

- When you tear into the transmission you might find that the teeth on the sleeves are worn down, most often the 2nd or 3rd gear sleeves. If you see damage, replace it, it's cheap and you don't want your shiny rebuilt trans to grind.

- Clean off one of those long folding tables, I mean really clean it, wipe it down and get all the grime off, and set it up somewhere where it can sit for several weeks while you work on the transmission. Sometimes **** happens and you realize you have to order another part, you might get the wrong thing, etc. When this happens you don't want to be moving your transmission all over and trying to make sure you don't lose any parts. Use this as your workspace, everything that comes out of the transmission stays on it.

- When you remove bolts, group them up based on where they came from and put them in labeled plastic bags.

- You're going to need to borrow the biggest 3 arm puller Autozone has available for rent, the slide hammer, and the pilot bearing puller attachment for it. Get it all in one trip, otherwise you'll end up going back.

- You can tap the new bearings into the casing with a hammer and a big socket if you're VERY careful, but you better be damn sure that the socket and hammer don't have any metal shavings or anything on them that can fall down and end up in the bearing. Everything needs to be CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. Tape up the socket first, wipe off the hammer, do whatever you have to to keep everything clean. And never tap on the inner race of a bearing when installing it, always make sure you're only putting pressure on the outer race. If you don't have a socket big enough, tough ****, go buy one or figure out some other way to only push on the outer race.

- If you see any noticeable groove or marking on the input shaft where it meets the oil seal, just sleeve it. It's cheap insurance against leaks and you don't want to have to drop the trans and tear it back down again.

- Clean off the RTV that seals the transmission casing while everything is out of the transmission so you don't have to worry about bits of it falling into places you can't easily reach. I find that the green scotch brite pads work amazingly well for cleaning the casing seal surface. When resealing it at the very end, clean both surfaces thoroughly with high concentration rubbing alcohol, apply a thin layer of Hondabond to BOTH surfaces just using your finger to smear it around, then put the case back together. It doesn't need to be thick, it can even be a bit see-thru as long as you get full coverage on both faces.

- Torque wrench for EVERYTHING, you don't want to split the casing. But you can get away with just tightening the giant nut at the end of the counter shaft until it gets to the same point it was before, you can tell by where it is staked, but make sure to stake it again. Also, when removing this, don't try to do it without an impact gun, if you don't have one yourself, take it to the nearest mom-and-pop auto shop and offer the guy there $10 to zip the nut off for you.

- Don't be a cheap ****, buy new crush washers. You'll have to order the shift fork ball spring bolt washers from a dealer though since dealerships typically don't stock them. The drain plug and reverse sensor washers are part 94109-14000 you need two of them. The fill plug washer is part 94109-20000. The shift fork bolt washers are 94109-12000 and you need 2 of them.

- If you can swing it, install a limited slip differential now. It's not really necessary at stock power levels but if you plan on adding power later, might as well do it now, diffs won't get cheaper.

- Use Honda MTF and nothing else in it afterwards, they designed the thing, they know what the best fluid for it is.

It's getting late so if I think of anything else I'll edit it in later.

 

I like your candor, good advice