Honda Prelude H22a1 rough Idle and misfiring
Hi Guys,
i am in dire need of expertise here. i have a 1992 honda prelude with a h22a1 engine with some bolt on mods which are listed below:
- 74mm Skunk2 throttle body
- 74mm Skunk2 intake mani
- Headers
- Vtec controllers
- chipped p13 ecu
- arospeed fpr
- walbro fuel pump
- 10mm plug wires
- NGK Iridium IX sparkies
car was all good and running well of a sudden it started missing and would jerk after depressing throttle to slow down. I checked the sparkies and they were a gone case so replaced them with the above mentioned one but to my surprise the problems persists. there is serious drop in power, it idles ok at times than sputters than ok for a while than sputters again. It also misses at around 2000rpm and 3500rpm.
Anyone got any idea.
i am in dire need of expertise here. i have a 1992 honda prelude with a h22a1 engine with some bolt on mods which are listed below:
- 74mm Skunk2 throttle body
- 74mm Skunk2 intake mani
- Headers
- Vtec controllers
- chipped p13 ecu
- arospeed fpr
- walbro fuel pump
- 10mm plug wires
- NGK Iridium IX sparkies
car was all good and running well of a sudden it started missing and would jerk after depressing throttle to slow down. I checked the sparkies and they were a gone case so replaced them with the above mentioned one but to my surprise the problems persists. there is serious drop in power, it idles ok at times than sputters than ok for a while than sputters again. It also misses at around 2000rpm and 3500rpm.
Anyone got any idea.
what kind of map you have there (is it tuned after your mods)?
quick what to do list
usually these things fix bad idle or/and hesitations:
- new spark plugs & wires
- new distributor cap & rotor
- new air/fuel filters
- clean injectors/iacv/egr/fitv
- bleed the coolant
- new pcv
- adjust valves and ignition
- adjust idle from tb's screw and throttle cable
- check does sensors work properly: map, iat and tps (and try calibrating tps)
- then check wires, connectors and hoses
check o2 sensors and vacuum/exhaust leaks (check all the seals - IM/header/TB gaskets, injector seals, maybe even buy valve cover gasket set...)
check timing. after that: double check timing
clogged cat might you give some trouble as well (usually when driving) - check cats condition
if none of these seem to work - do compression and leak tests
and if you have chipped ecu and youre running it just with basemap, it might not work as well than properly tuned one
those are basic maintenance as well.
usually these things fix bad idle or/and hesitations:
- new spark plugs & wires
- new distributor cap & rotor
- new air/fuel filters
- clean injectors/iacv/egr/fitv
- bleed the coolant
- new pcv
- adjust valves and ignition
- adjust idle from tb's screw and throttle cable
- check does sensors work properly: map, iat and tps (and try calibrating tps)
- then check wires, connectors and hoses
check o2 sensors and vacuum/exhaust leaks (check all the seals - IM/header/TB gaskets, injector seals, maybe even buy valve cover gasket set...)
check timing. after that: double check timing
clogged cat might you give some trouble as well (usually when driving) - check cats condition
if none of these seem to work - do compression and leak tests
and if you have chipped ecu and youre running it just with basemap, it might not work as well than properly tuned one
those are basic maintenance as well.
i am nt sure of what base map its runnin as i bot da car wid it...but i knw it was tuned as previous owner stated...i wil use ur tips and see hw it goes...do u guys recon a faulty fuel pump or fpr to cause this??
Last edited by Rymal Lal; Nov 12, 2017 at 09:49 PM. Reason: incomplete post
Check the distributor cap- went through a horrible misfire/stumble issue this weekend with my car that was seemingly good one day and bad the next. The center button in the cap that contacts the rotor was all but gone.
Check that and spark plug wires. Sometimes the screw holding the rotor backs out. Next check your wires. This is the old school way of doing this but works none the less. Stick a screw driver in the hole and test for continuity or buy a spark tester from harbor freight for like $5. Crank away and if it sparks/lights up your wires are golden but if not then on to the next...
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Okay so recent update...got my friend (who is one the best mech's around ) to check for the issue and the first thing he said was the issue was the fuel pump...i initially had a walbro 255lph fuel pump which was installed sometime in the early months of 2017. the fuel pump could not even supply enough fuel to hit the 39-41 psi stock fuel pressure, second it constantly used to stop and start causing the misfiring and loss of power. so i went and bought the DW200 fuel pump (which works wonders), you wont hear a whine when it starts up. okay so after getting the new pump in, the major problem is gone and car drives normal now, power is back...now i face a issue that happens time to time. this problem is that the accelerator is pressed down and out of no where car would hesitate and struggle to stay start and than in less then 15-20 secs it is back to normal...what do you guys think this could be??
does anyone have a vacuum diagram (H22a1 - prelude bb4) that i could use to redo my cars vacuum hoses as i have seen some with slight cracks and that could be one issue also.
Thanks in adv!!
does anyone have a vacuum diagram (H22a1 - prelude bb4) that i could use to redo my cars vacuum hoses as i have seen some with slight cracks and that could be one issue also.
Thanks in adv!!
1) theres already list what you need to check for hesitations, probably its your map if you havent got your setup/ecu tuned
2) vacuum diagram can be found from cars manual (download one) and/or google it
2) vacuum diagram can be found from cars manual (download one) and/or google it
Okay so recent update...got my friend (who is one the best mech's around ) to check for the issue and the first thing he said was the issue was the fuel pump...i initially had a walbro 255lph fuel pump which was installed sometime in the early months of 2017. the fuel pump could not even supply enough fuel to hit the 39-41 psi stock fuel pressure, second it constantly used to stop and start causing the misfiring and loss of power. so i went and bought the DW200 fuel pump (which works wonders), you wont hear a whine when it starts up. okay so after getting the new pump in, the major problem is gone and car drives normal now, power is back...now i face a issue that happens time to time. this problem is that the accelerator is pressed down and out of no where car would hesitate and struggle to stay start and than in less then 15-20 secs it is back to normal...what do you guys think this could be??
does anyone have a vacuum diagram (H22a1 - prelude bb4) that i could use to redo my cars vacuum hoses as i have seen some with slight cracks and that could be one issue also.
Thanks in adv!!
does anyone have a vacuum diagram (H22a1 - prelude bb4) that i could use to redo my cars vacuum hoses as i have seen some with slight cracks and that could be one issue also.
Thanks in adv!!
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