1991 CRX SI/ B20 Code 3 MAP
Car is CRX SI I swapped it with a B20B and car runs great until I go to full throttle I get a Code 3 MAP sensor code and then the car runs like crap. I have to turn the car off and restart it so it will run good again. The engine runs strong as long as I do not go to full throttle. Only upgrades I have on the engine is ITR headers, Skunk 2 Pro series Intake manifold and Throttle body, and 2.75" exhaust.
Things I have checked:
Timing is good ( checked with test light)
Swapped out the MAP with 3 other brand new sensors
TPS is good and calibrated
I have 3 ECU's that I have tried. P28 chipped, 2 x P75 virgin
Fuel Pressure 28psi at idle with the vacuum line connected to the FPR and 38psi disconnected
Things I have checked:
Timing is good ( checked with test light)
Swapped out the MAP with 3 other brand new sensors
TPS is good and calibrated
I have 3 ECU's that I have tried. P28 chipped, 2 x P75 virgin
Fuel Pressure 28psi at idle with the vacuum line connected to the FPR and 38psi disconnected
The TPS and the MAP sensor have the same plug, make sure they're not swapped. Although I doubt you would get very far with those swapped. I feel like you may want to revisit the TPS.
I have tried to swap the plugs and the car runs like crap and I get TPS and MAP codes. I have also tried 4 different TPS sensors that I had laying around.
Check your wiring? My 91 hatch had intermittent/random sensor codes when I bought it, swapped sensors over and over, finally figured out that there is one wire (green/white I think) that's common to most of the IM wiring on OBD0 - did you do a full harness swap or just get adapters? Pretty sure OBD1 is similar regardless. Anyway, some previous owner smashed/crimped/shorted something somewhere on mine. Even though it was fouling all my sensors it usually only threw one code- either MAP or TPS. I eventually ran a new wire from ECU to the strut tower plug- not proud but it worked. Google around and you should be able to find the Helms diagrams, they're a godsend.
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