This has been happening for a while now, not sure exactly how long.
Essentially, the car runs fine, but after a while of being on the road it'll begin to overheat. I can travel for long distances at a constant speed without any overheat but if I were to drive thru stop and go traffic on a hot day for a long time, the car is guaranteed to run hotter and hotter and eventually overheat. Had the cap tested and there are no leaks, I'll check the radiator before driving and the coolant level never seems to go down at all.
Also swapped the fan fuse with a new one to see if it was a bad fuse, which it wasnt.


So what are the possibilities here and where should I start diagnosing?

 

Are you sure the fans are coming on? I know you said you checked the fuse but there's quite a few potential failure points in the circuit other than the fuse.

 

I checked it a few times a while back and it would kick on eventually, haven't checked it recently though. IF the fans aint kicking on then what's the damage? In other words, is that an easy DIY project to replace them or am I gonna be seeing a mechanic soon?

 

Fans are easy, diagnosing fans CAN be easy if you have some basic electrical knowledge. If they don't come on by the time the temperature gauge is reading OVER half (say half way between half and 3/4) then you'll want to unplug the fan motor and make sure you've got power and ground going to the fan. If you do, easy peasy replace the fan(s). If you don't, more diagnosing is required.

 

I Appreciate the responses! So although it was raining, I went out there right now and let her run for a good while. The fans DO work, but wouldn't kick on until WELL ABOVE the 1/2 way point, and even then, the fan only ran for maybe ten to fifteen seconds tops and then stopped. So the fan itself does function, but what could cause it to start so late and run for such a short period of time? Managed to get a pic of where the temp was at when the fan kicked on.

 

Going to give you a few things to check:

1. When the car warms up to normal operating temperature turn the heater on. Is it blowing good and hot? If it's cold or only luke warm you likely have air trapped in the cooling system. Bleed it as follows:

1. Set heater controls to maximum heat. Fill cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water to bottom of filler neck. Loosen bleed bolt, located on thermostat housing.
2. Tighten bleed bolt when coolant flows from bleed bolt in steady stream without bubbles. With radiator cap off, start and operate engine to normal operating temperature (fan comes on at least twice). Add coolant as necessary. Install radiator cap.

2. If the heater is hot, touch the upper and lower radiator hoses. They should both be hot to the touch. If the one leading to the thermostat housing is significantly cooler than the other then it's likely thermostat isn't opening. Replace it.
3. If both hoses are hot and the cooling fan isn't running you'll need to test the fan switch as follows:

1. Remove coolant temperature switch (located on rear of engine block). Suspend temperature switch and thermometer in a container with a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water. DO NOT allow thermometer or temperature switch to touch bottom of container. Heat coolant mixture.
2. Check continuity between temperature switch terminals. With coolant temperature 181-191°F (83-91°C), continuity should not exist. With coolant temperature 191-203°F (91-95°C), continuity should be present.