Pics are included, but the two connecting ends to the Distributor have come straight off the Distributor end. This is the second time this has happened, I have already tried using two Distributors.



a number of notes.

1. I just put a new (used) transmission from JDM with about 30,000 miles on it. I got it working perfectly. The engine in it (2.3L 4cyl) 1998, has almost 280,000 miles on it. There is also a brand new radiator, plugs, wires.



2. My initial problem was with the Distributor that I was trying to fix. It had the oil seal leak within, and I tried with no success to get the pin out, so I could remove and finish repair. In so doing, when I was trying to get pin out, I bent and warped the washer looking piece underneath it. I did not realize this until later.



3. I put the distributor (above) with the warped (washer) back on the engine. I figured I had to find a shop to get the pin out, and then continue repair.

I would leak about a full quart with every 60 miles or so. Its my only vehicle, so it gets me to and from work.



4. I decided to give it an oil change and add Bar's Rear Main Seal additive to it, and help with the engine a bit. It has again 280,000 miles on it. It runs like a champ, or so it did.



5. Without knowledge of warped washer to distributor, I though I would run the car on the highway to have the Bar's Rear Main Seal additive activate and work itself. I was on the highway for about 5 miles, and then car oil light went on. I was blowing blue smoke out of exhaust. I stopped immediately off exit, and it was down a full quart. Leaking out of the warped washer of distributor that I had malfunctioned. At this time, I believe I blew the Head

Gasket, (later inspection found the oil to have antifreeze in it)

I drove it back home quickly about 7 miles after putting a full quart of oil in it.



6. I parked car and then went to a junk yard to get another distributor, and after putting it in, this is what happened. The two fitting ends of the Distributor came off. The first time, I couldnt find the two peices. THe second time, I was able to get them out of Distributor Drive (pictured).



7. I used TDC for piston one, and both times, after the crankshaft turns a bit it breaks them, and then the TDC goes off and it begins to backfire.





Conclusions & Questions:



I feel the Bars Rear Main Sealant activated and created extra friction on problems with the drive? thus creating more torque to break the Distributor?



I looked an took off valve cover to find the pieces to the FIRST DISTRIBUTOR, but I could not find them. The DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE, though is not connected to be able to go into valve cover, it is close off and drops down.

Does it mean the pieces went to the oil pan below?



Because the engine has so many miles, and the head gasket is blown did this create a problem? The engine crankcase can be turned, but when I was setting the TDC, in my full turn, a portion of it would give me some resistance , and I would have to turn harder.



Is this a bent valve? there are deposits of oil on the #1 spark plug well. I removed the spark plug to help with TDC, so I could look down into chamber.



I would require alot of pressure to break those pieces off the distributor, I feel it has to do with the Head GAsket, and or the Bar's Rear Main Sealer, by creating more friction somehow.



How? What?



Im totally confused now.........



Im a shady tree mechanic. Did the transmission completely by myself, so I can turn a wrench.....





finally, what I was going to do it just get engine fired up again, and use Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer. My neighbor used it on his car, and its been running great......though he has a V8 mercury cougar (1995)



Help.

Dont know where to go from here.



kind regards

thomas.wine@gmail.com

 

This video may help:

https://youtu.be/jKKoXRY3qPA

Can you find that piece in junk yard?

Good luck,
Sam

 

the reason its breaking is cause you are putting it in 180 degrees off

the end is slotted off center so it only allows you to put in one correct way

the next distributor you get, take a good look at the end, it's not symmetrical

 

It will only fit in flush if I get the feet in the connecting slot in upper engine.
I understand this.

So you are telling me that I am putting the slot , and its on incorrectly by 180 degrees?

I was thinking that the rotor would have to line up with spark plug 1 position.

Are there marks for me to indicate that I am putting it in correctly?

I need TDC correct? And the rotor should be in a certain position too correct?

I saw a video where the mechanic said it would set itself....

totally confused again......when I was putting in the original distributor with leak, it never failed.

Could a bad Distributor create problems?

This has happened to me twice with Distributors from junk yards ( as stated initially)

So I am putting them in 180 degrees off......and this is what is snapping them , im trying to understand.

A. I will set position TDC for Piston 1
B. The Distributor then goes in a way that is fitted....how do I know that I am putting it in correctly?
Meaning: what side is correctly up?

thanks for all your help and reply

kind regards
thomas.wine@gmail.com

​​​​​​​

 

Go to harbor freight and buy their motocycle chain removal tool. It works GREAT for removing these pins for the distributors (https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-...ker-66488.html). The coupler on those dizzys are slightly offset so that it can only go in one way, you shouldn't have to force it- it should slip right in. In terms of the oil on your spark plug, what condition are your spark plug tube seals in? You may be burning oil if they are fouled, but it does not take alot to fudge up those spark plug tube seals (on valve cover). Make sure you are using the correct dizzy for this car.

PS how did your JDM tranny swap go. I ,too, will be doing this swap soon.

 

I would check compression on your cylinders. I have personally never heard of a head gasket causing friction to break the tabs off distributors.

 

I told you to look at the end of the distributor. You will see it's not completely symmetrical. It is offset. Just look at it.

Also, it's possible when putting the distributor back together after replacing the inner seal to have the key off by 180 degrees as well. You must make a mark so that when you put it back together it is correct.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-leak-2214402/

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=hond...8WNVGxVWL_LeM:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...sound-3180283/

 

Thanks for all your help fellas a couple of weeks ago.
had to save some money....and now Im back at it....have some questions

I am fairly certain I connected both times offset.....so will be trying repair again this friday november 8th.

I have some pics and questions....

First , Ive included the factory repair manual page for Distributor Install.

I have the F23A1 engine....so its the diagram in the NW (2:00) position.

Im confused, because I swear to god, after labeling the wires during removal, my spark plug one wire, was on no. 4 position.....(oppositely, the spark plug 4 was in no. 1 position)

I will double check, but ultimately....I should just follow this page and instructions to a t then?

When you are facing the engine....spark plug 1 would be on the left? or the right?
My spark plug 1 was on the left (closest to transmission)

Position 4 (spark plug 4) is on the right closest to the timing chain correct?

A1 No.1 cylinder mark on that diagram means spark plug 1?

Ive also enclose pics of new distributor....

any advice will help....

any secrets or tips on getting TDC piston 1 correct?

or more importantly.....getting ignition timing in position without specific tools?



thanks fellas
thomas.wine@gmail.com

 

to Mason Edmison.
the transmission from JDM was solid. Not a thing wrong with it.....they told me it came out of a honda with only 60,000 miles on it.
I understand JDM gets alot of its spare engines and transmissions from Japan directly. The info I got was that at specific time intervals (unlike ours),
such at 30,000 and 50,000 miles, the japanese themselves do an automatic change out for the transmission.
Its just their standard way of doing things for honda owners that are in specific income brackets......
I was suprised..........I want to do an engine from them now.......I highly recommend their used transmissions......the one I have is superb (for a used)

 

cylinder 1 is always closest to the timing belt

 

Thanks guys for all the help on the distributor.....I got it in. Used a brand new one....
NEW PROBLEM:
I just replaced my head gasket. I did an excellent job. No leaks, good compression. Good rpm.
I had replaced my transmission, a JDM replacement.....everything worked great on transmission, until I blew the Head Gasket.
Again, replaced head gasket.....
now my car will not shift into higher gear. it will get up to about 3000 rpm's and then just keep stuttering....wont go over 35-40mph. Transmission will not
convert to higher gear power.....( i did not have this problem at all after initial replacement...before replacing head gasket)
I replaced sensor under the distributor (blew off cylinder head during gasket blow)


I have enclosed pics of the other sensor that blew......its comes under the intake manifold , in the center , attached to top of engine block
To the right of this sensor, is another gauge/sensor......I believe it is the oil temperature sender unit?
Is this the Knock Sensor?
Will this keep my car from going into higher gear?

I just dont know what the name or type of sensor this is......cant locate any info on my repair cd.
It is a 1 pin.

what should I be looking at on my transmission?
the shift solenoids? what should I be looking at for my shift solenoids?

I replaced the solenoid gasket on the cylinder head.....and man, it had a lot of build up of oil in filter screen part of gasket...

thanks y'all

kind regards
thomas.wine@gmail.com