D15z1 swap to d16z6 not running right!!
New to this forum can't figure out how to just post thread using this thread sorry all. I have put a dz16z in my eg and took the d15z1 standard engine out. The loom on the d16z6 engine had 3 plugs going to car loom on right side of engine bay. So I used the d15z1 engine loom which matched up perfect apart from egr plug. I know the d16z6 has no egr so thought the spare plug would not be a problem. I have put o2 sensor off dz15z1 on because it would plug up ok as I am using d15z1 engine loom. The car starts and idels fine at about 1000 rpm just over, but car does not run correct on drive. It has low power in low rpm and low at top rpm and but seems ok at middle rpm. The car comes up with check engine light when driven for a short while. I have not changed ecu from standard d15z1 could this be the problem I have ecu from dz16z engine and whole auto car d16z6 came from. I think i need to change ecu to make car run correct and have correct power but not 100%. Please any help and anyone interested in d15z1 engine and ECU if not needed. Thank help please !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by Leecivic16v; Oct 18, 2017 at 03:26 PM. Reason: Spelling error
The VX VTEC-E system is completely different from the other models. You will need to replace a lot of parts to make it run right. Or use a D15Z1 engine and keep the car a VX.
so there's no way by changing ecu to d16z6 p28 that my car will run good. What else would I have to change thanks for help all. This car is my daily driver and need it to run good any more info please guys.
if i use p28 ecu will it run good I'm going to try it today thanks all. Just swapped out p07 ecu for p28 ECU runs great vetech kicks in good. Just engine check light, but I'm sure that's on just because I'm using auto ECU. It is because it thinks the car is in Parc correct me if I'm wrong. Any info on how to take check light off thanks to all that helped me out really appreciate it😊
Last edited by Leecivic16v; Oct 19, 2017 at 03:30 AM.
At least some of the codes (which you should check) are because the auto ECU didn't find the transmission solenoids which of course are not on a manual car. You can move programming jumpers in OBD1 ECU's to change it from auto to manual.
Would need to swap on an EX intake with injectors and a 4 wire O2 sensor (rewiring the harness) to fully convert. The final ratio in the VX transmission is also different.
Not sure why someone would take apart a working VX to gain a tiny bit of power but lose mpg.
Would need to swap on an EX intake with injectors and a 4 wire O2 sensor (rewiring the harness) to fully convert. The final ratio in the VX transmission is also different.
Not sure why someone would take apart a working VX to gain a tiny bit of power but lose mpg.
At least some of the codes (which you should check) are because the auto ECU didn't find the transmission solenoids which of course are not on a manual car. You can move programming jumpers in OBD1 ECU's to change it from auto to manual.
Would need to swap on an EX intake with injectors and a 4 wire O2 sensor (rewiring the harness) to fully convert. The final ratio in the VX transmission is also different.
Not sure why someone would take apart a working VX to gain a tiny bit of power but lose mpg.
Would need to swap on an EX intake with injectors and a 4 wire O2 sensor (rewiring the harness) to fully convert. The final ratio in the VX transmission is also different.
Not sure why someone would take apart a working VX to gain a tiny bit of power but lose mpg.
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I did it because the vx was dead probly pushing 70 bhp it was that bad, I hammered it for 3 years lol. I bought a cheap del sol cause it had 4 branch mugen exhaust on it and nice rims. The del sol had 62 thousand on clock genuion mileage and was a bargain. So that's why I did it gained new mint condition rims 4 2 1 exhaust stainless steel mugen and 35 bhp that's why mate mpg doesn't bother me.
As someone who has done the same swap.... some questions:
which trans are you using?
which O2 are you using with the P28?
auto-manual ECU change is simple - google 'P28 auto to manual' it's been documented to death, even videos
which trans are you using?
which O2 are you using with the P28?
auto-manual ECU change is simple - google 'P28 auto to manual' it's been documented to death, even videos
I'm using the d15z1 gearbox as the d16z6 car I bought was auto. I have used d15z1 engine loom and o2 sensor. Car drives fine pulls well limits on 8000. Have check light but think it's just because auto ECU in manual car. The car temp is good and drives fine so don't think any more faults. I won't know for sure till I change ECU to manual. Had a look at change on ecu seems easy but not expert so wondering where I can get it done. Ps could you pass on any info you gain on your change please.
the P28 with the VX O2 will set a Check Engine light (so will the auto/manual issue)
reason:
the 49-state spec VX P07-Axx ECU uses a 5-wire wideband O2 sensor
the P28 needs a standard 4-wire O2.
they are VERY different
note: the cali-spec 93+ VX had a P07-Lxx ECU, which is basically a P28 and uses a 4-wire O2 - in case that's what you had
note2: the P28 knows the gear ratio in the EX trans, it will not correctly know which gear you are in, not a huge deal, it will work, but it will not be 100%
*edit* the codes I refer to are located on the side label of the ECU. ie P07-Lxx is 37820-P07-L then I do not care about the last two letters/numbers, represented by xx
reason:
the 49-state spec VX P07-Axx ECU uses a 5-wire wideband O2 sensor
the P28 needs a standard 4-wire O2.
they are VERY different
note: the cali-spec 93+ VX had a P07-Lxx ECU, which is basically a P28 and uses a 4-wire O2 - in case that's what you had
note2: the P28 knows the gear ratio in the EX trans, it will not correctly know which gear you are in, not a huge deal, it will work, but it will not be 100%
*edit* the codes I refer to are located on the side label of the ECU. ie P07-Lxx is 37820-P07-L then I do not care about the last two letters/numbers, represented by xx
the P28 with the VX O2 will set a Check Engine light (so will the auto/manual issue)
reason:
the 49-state spec VX P07-Axx ECU uses a 5-wire wideband O2 sensor
the P28 needs a standard 4-wire O2.
they are VERY different
note: the cali-spec 93+ VX had a P07-Lxx ECU, which is basically a P28 and uses a 4-wire O2 - in case that's what you had
note2: the P28 knows the gear ratio in the EX trans, it will not correctly know which gear you are in, not a huge deal, it will work, but it will not be 100%
*edit* the codes I refer to are located on the side label of the ECU. ie P07-Lxx is 37820-P07-L then I do not care about the last two letters/numbers, represented by xx
reason:
the 49-state spec VX P07-Axx ECU uses a 5-wire wideband O2 sensor
the P28 needs a standard 4-wire O2.
they are VERY different
note: the cali-spec 93+ VX had a P07-Lxx ECU, which is basically a P28 and uses a 4-wire O2 - in case that's what you had
note2: the P28 knows the gear ratio in the EX trans, it will not correctly know which gear you are in, not a huge deal, it will work, but it will not be 100%
*edit* the codes I refer to are located on the side label of the ECU. ie P07-Lxx is 37820-P07-L then I do not care about the last two letters/numbers, represented by xx
after that it SHOULD be CEL free, but there are no such thing as 100% over the internet.
you will need to use the d16z6 car's O2 sensor. (honestly this swap would have been a ton easier if you would have used the Z6's engine harness and the VX in car harness. Only a few changes to make at the shock towers and everything plugs in and works fine)
after that it SHOULD be CEL free, but there are no such thing as 100% over the internet.
after that it SHOULD be CEL free, but there are no such thing as 100% over the internet.
the 4th connector is for the additional wiring of the wideband, move one wire from the fourth connector and the rest of the wires line up.
I have not updated my site in a really long time, but the info is still valid. http://www.b18c5eg.com/itr_vx_wiring.html
specifically the 92-95 SI/EX (D16Z6) into a VX link.
move that one highlighted wire in the chassis harness from the fourth plug to the first plug (the location will be empty) and the rest of the Z6 engine harness will work fine (you will not use the remaining wires in the fourth plug)
I have not updated my site in a really long time, but the info is still valid. http://www.b18c5eg.com/itr_vx_wiring.html
specifically the 92-95 SI/EX (D16Z6) into a VX link.
move that one highlighted wire in the chassis harness from the fourth plug to the first plug (the location will be empty) and the rest of the Z6 engine harness will work fine (you will not use the remaining wires in the fourth plug)
the 4th connector is for the additional wiring of the wideband, move one wire from the fourth connector and the rest of the wires line up.
I have not updated my site in a really long time, but the info is still valid. B18C5EG.com - swaps into an VX
specifically the 92-95 SI/EX (D16Z6) into a VX link.
move that one highlighted wire in the chassis harness from the fourth plug to the first plug (the location will be empty) and the rest of the Z6 engine harness will work fine (you will not use the remaining wires in the fourth plug)
I have not updated my site in a really long time, but the info is still valid. B18C5EG.com - swaps into an VX
specifically the 92-95 SI/EX (D16Z6) into a VX link.
move that one highlighted wire in the chassis harness from the fourth plug to the first plug (the location will be empty) and the rest of the Z6 engine harness will work fine (you will not use the remaining wires in the fourth plug)
direct links
pdf of connectors at shock towers --> http://www.b18c5eg.com/egd16z6_vx.pdf
instructions on how to use pdf --> B18C5EG.com - swaps into an VX
pdf of connectors at shock towers --> http://www.b18c5eg.com/egd16z6_vx.pdf
instructions on how to use pdf --> B18C5EG.com - swaps into an VX
direct links
pdf of connectors at shock towers --> http://www.b18c5eg.com/egd16z6_vx.pdf
instructions on how to use pdf --> B18C5EG.com - swaps into an VX
pdf of connectors at shock towers --> http://www.b18c5eg.com/egd16z6_vx.pdf
instructions on how to use pdf --> B18C5EG.com - swaps into an VX
more than likely your speed sensor was damaged during the swap (common due to it's location)
answer as to compatibility (sort of)--> https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...manual-623569/
to diagnose your sensor:
the speed sensor should have three wires, one is 12V, one is ground and the other is a 0-12V PWM signal based on RPM of transmission final drive gear. (ie frequency of output increases as speed increases)
If you have 12V and ground and want to check the signal, attach a Volt Meter to the wire, rotate the tire, it should jump from 0V to 12V then back and forth. (if it doesn't the sensor or gear is bad)
answer as to compatibility (sort of)--> https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...manual-623569/
to diagnose your sensor:
the speed sensor should have three wires, one is 12V, one is ground and the other is a 0-12V PWM signal based on RPM of transmission final drive gear. (ie frequency of output increases as speed increases)
If you have 12V and ground and want to check the signal, attach a Volt Meter to the wire, rotate the tire, it should jump from 0V to 12V then back and forth. (if it doesn't the sensor or gear is bad)
more than likely your speed sensor was damaged during the swap (common due to it's location)
answer as to compatibility (sort of)--> https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...manual-623569/
to diagnose your sensor:
the speed sensor should have three wires, one is 12V, one is ground and the other is a 0-12V PWM signal based on RPM of transmission final drive gear. (ie frequency of output increases as speed increases)
If you have 12V and ground and want to check the signal, attach a Volt Meter to the wire, rotate the tire, it should jump from 0V to 12V then back and forth. (if it doesn't the sensor or gear is bad)
answer as to compatibility (sort of)--> https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...manual-623569/
to diagnose your sensor:
the speed sensor should have three wires, one is 12V, one is ground and the other is a 0-12V PWM signal based on RPM of transmission final drive gear. (ie frequency of output increases as speed increases)
If you have 12V and ground and want to check the signal, attach a Volt Meter to the wire, rotate the tire, it should jump from 0V to 12V then back and forth. (if it doesn't the sensor or gear is bad)
New to this forum can't figure out how to just post thread using this thread sorry all. I have put a dz16z in my eg and took the d15z1 standard engine out. The loom on the d16z6 engine had 3 plugs going to car loom on right side of engine bay. So I used the d15z1 engine loom which matched up perfect apart from egr plug. I know the d16z6 has no egr so thought the spare plug would not be a problem. I have put o2 sensor off dz15z1 on because it would plug up ok as I am using d15z1 engine loom. The car starts and idels fine at about 1000 rpm just over, but car does not run correct on drive. It has low power in low rpm and low at top rpm and but seems ok at middle rpm. The car comes up with check engine light when driven for a short while. I have not changed ecu from standard d15z1 could this be the problem I have ecu from dz16z engine and whole auto car d16z6 came from. I think i need to change ecu to make car run correct and have correct power but not 100%. Please any help and anyone interested in d15z1 engine and ECU if not needed. Thank help please !!!!!!!!!!!!!!


