Hi all, lately I have been hearing a squeak after clutch engagement during low speed gear changes, followed by a slight wobble which one could feel throughout the car. I also get a much louder squeak during a high revving gearing change when the clutch engages. I'm thinking its about time to change out the clutch and all associated parts. Flywheel is slightly warped. I don't have any other issues than the squeak and wobble. Clutch isn't slipping, no grinding during gear changes, gear selection is nice and smooth.

My R just reached 260k miles yesterday. The current clutch has been in there about 70k - 80k miles. So I was pricing up the disk, pressure place, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, and flywheel from bernardi parts, and I see the fly wheel has been discontinued.

I've had an Xact prolite flywheel before, didn't have an issue with it, but I'd rather just have an OEM one installed. At least a fly wheel that is close to the OEM weight, whatever that is. I could try to get the current OEM fly wheel resurfaced, but I'd rather just put in a new one.

I'm requesting any recommendations for fly wheels that are close to OEM weight and are made of steel. I think the OEM one is steel, but not 100% sure. I'm leaning towards a Spec flywheel, but just don't know anything about them or their quality/reliability of products.

Any help or reviews is greatly appreciated!

 

That Chase Acura guy could get oem parts. He might be able to help you get a flywheel?

 

Thanks Dave! Do you remember his username? Usually if its discontinued on any Honda/Acura parts dealer's site, its usually accurate. But I'll ask him once I find out who he is.

 

thats me
flywheel not avial, thought there was a supperseded #
disk, plate and TO bearing are 322

 

Thanks 94RS! I'll PM you for more info.

 

I just replaced the clutch in my caR. I used an Xact, but I used their OEM equivalent. Here's something that caught me by surprise: the pilot bearing is not the same size across differing brands of flywheels that claim to be identical to the OEM. So, be sure that you buy a new pilot bearing from the same brand as your flywheel. I am not talking about the throw-out bearing -- I am referring to the pilot bearing that is pressed into the center of the flywheel. I bought my parts from Xact direct, and they were kind enough to press the pilot bearing for me, and ship the assembly to me overnight. Nice!

When I bought my ITR, the previous owner told me that he thought the throw-out bearing was worn out, based on the intermittent noises coming from the transmission when the clutch was depressed. But when I pulled the transmission out, what I found was that the old pilot bearing was destroyed. Fortunately, the transmission input shaft was still serviceable.

While your tranny is out, it is a good time to replace a bunch of the small water hoses behind the engine. I found two of them cracked and weeping coolant. I also found several missing bolts on the engine stiffener. Finally, this is also a great time to drop the oil pan and install the myhondahabit gasket kit. This will cure your dripping oil pan. When I bought my car, the bottom of the engine and transmission were damp with fluids seeping from the oil pan, leaking hoses, and over-torqued tranny drain plug. All those are now dry, and my garage floor no longer needs a drip pan.

These cars are getting older, and after several owners they are likely to be victims of some shortcuts by previous mechanics. My advice: Take your time and do it right -- replacing all the missing fasteners as you go. Good luck,

Cap

 

Great advice from DrCap. This part really rings true: These cars are getting older, and after several owners they are likely to be victims of some shortcuts by previous mechanics. My advice: Take your time and do it right I was lucky with mine as it was a low mileage example from Japan and had always gone to a Honda main dealer so no non OEM bits and bobs on it and I kept that up as much as possible, other than suspension as OEM was either hard to get or daftly expensive(though went OEM for the RTA bushes). I dunno what it's like in your neck of the woods, but in mine very few haven't been fiddled about with aftermarket go faster bits.

I'm still on my original clutch at 100,000 miles, but earlier in the year got lucky with a guy selling a full OEM clutch kit for a bargain so have that when the need arises. Down the years I've consistently read/heard that running the standard engine, even a little not so standard, the OEM clutch is the best bet. I've even known a couple of guys who ran track cars/amateur race R's on the standard OEM.