Just for the interested, h22 head, h23 block, crank, rods, h22 87.25 Mahle golds. Still runs, very little oil sunsumption,
holding compression at 235 all cyls. Has 75000kms on it of abuse.

 

Well done. I have Mahle Gold series pistons (the dome tops) in my H22A4 as well... it has been running since 2005... no oil consumption and runs like a champ. I love it.

 

Thank you for posting! It’s always nice to hear another Mahle users success! As I’m sure you’ve been essentially ridiculed continuously for using them in first place. Supposedly, we are two of the lucky few lmao.

 

LOL... I always got crap from the Honda community for doing the "H" in the first place... not really any for the pistons. I don't think the "H" really ever got popular until this "H2B" trend hit... then all of a sudden, the H/F platform was cool.

 

Which rings are you using? You mentioned no oil consumption so if the rings aren't getting eaten up like the factory ones, they could be a good alternative for others.

 

The Mahle's. And since you are asking, I should clarify that I do not have "excessive" oil consumption... even Honda states that consuming one quart per 3000 miles is normal for a VTEC engine, and my consumption is slightly less than this... and I do crack VTEC often, so I expected worse.

 

The Mahle set comes with the rings. It’s up to builder to set ring gap according to requirements. As previously stated above, I use very little oil. 1 qt every 3000 approximately.

 

Glad to see there are still people running them. Gives folks like me hope that we're not crazy in thinking these pistons can in fact be reliable. a few questions for you two
A. Did you have your cylinder bores machined/ checked before the install or just frop in into the block?
B. Care to share what compression you're running at, dyno info or 1/4 mile times (for those of us who really don't care about dyno numbers)

_Thanks in Advance

 

I would be more interested in those with turbo (boost) with the mahle gold series true test... if they take the miles with decent compression and very lil oil consumption
The problems the mahle gold series failed on 90% is because many kids do not know how to put a motor together nor paid attention to piston to wall specs...

 

I had my H23a1 block bored 0.25mm to 87.25mm. Finding a shop to do it wasn’t easy, but eventually I got it done. Long story. This was in 2003 or earlier when I built this specific engine. Most builds fail using these pistons because they are not built properly. I would never use stock 87mm bore GS Mahles unless block was NEW. I only build using OS pistons, and I’ve had no issues with any build.

Compression was calculated 10.68:1, but going off memory. It’s higher than H23a because of 0.25 overbore, plus 6 thou decked. But I used a custom 0.051” Cometic HG which kept things from getting too much higher than a stock H23a. I had it on a dyno once but I’m not sharing the numbers because simply put, I’m tired of arguing or being called a liar. W/o a sheet to show the numbers, it’s really just a moot point. I street tune always, using s300 v2 and AEM Uego for all builds. Street tunes are better and are real world than any dyno tune. At 14-18psi on my 4ws with 215/40zr17 falken 451 tires it ran 12.8 with a shtty 60ft of 2.2.

 

agreed. Most are built improperly. This engine was boosted for 60000kms before I pulled it and put it in a gutted CRX. It’s been N/A since. I’ve had no issues. But it won’t last forever. Eventually the grafal coating will be gone, and it’ll be toast. But it’s had 15 years of heavy load driving, and was built for $2000 from top to bottom rebuild. Milled crank, ACL bearings, Full gasket kit used from Honda. Every oring changed, including squirters.

 

I used the .010" (87.25mm) over bore sized high compression pistons... compression is advertised at 11.5:1, but mine by the Zeal Works calculator works out more like 12:1. Wheel HP is 244 on 93 octane pump gas. The car is a full body, full interior DX Coupe. Best 1/4 mile time is 12.93 seconds @ 105 mph with a short time of 1.82 seconds on a 22" M/T slick.

 

did you use the OE thickness gasket? Off memory 0.026” thickness.

 

First off, thanks for answering all of my questions with direct performance data (rare thing on forums) and I'd be more than willing to hear what it put down on the dyno(and with what turbo & fuel) sheet or no sheet I have no want nor need to accuse someone that I come to for info about something my knowledge is limited on. As for finding someone to bore and hone FRM sleeves the song hasn't changed as I've yet to find someone within a 100 mile radius whos willing to do it and if they are they want an arm and a leg..

I believed these pistons had potential with the right builder (read If installed correctly) but there has only been a handfull to do it right (publicly). I figure if a kid on youtube can do it right in his garage with sucess and great numbers in Colorado air than it should kill down here closer to sea level.. Again thanks for the data

 

It isn’t easy to find a machine shop who will bore the sleeves, for sure. I ended up sending an a4 open deck block to a shop 250kms away, after 1.5 months of no’s, and more no’s. I told them do it “this way”, and they were extremely happy with the results. They’ve been the go to since.
The tolerances are close, and if not spot on expect issues. No different than any build really.
If you would like whp/wtq numbers I can PM you.

 

HELL YES

 

Yes yes I second that! I've asked so many people what the set PwC at and what the ovality percentage was and they had no idea! H22 is alot less tolerant to mistakes but it will pay you back 10fold if you go by the book 100 percent cross all your ts and dot your eyes

 

I have a 98 5th gen with a H23A swap and a 2000 5th gen with a H22A1. Ready to build one and probably better to do the H23A. Ive been on the fence with sleeving, i can only offered to do the mahle gold pistons and leanong towards doing it. Kyle from boosted boiz has the H22A no sleeves with pistons, rods, springs and retainers, stock IM, TB, cams etc. With 700+HP. I assume he has the gold series pistons but he has been running that setup for a year and a half hard and its still going and hearing you guys talk i think im not gunna sleeve and go for it. I dont plan to go over 500HP when done.

 

They use closed deck blocks with replacement iron liners that allow them to run a typical forged piston. Personally I would not recommend Mahle Golds for a high horsepower turbo setup. If you can't afford to do it the right way the first time, how will you afford to fix it when something goes wrong? I have seen too many horror stories with them to gamble on it myself. The engine must be built absolutely perfectly and even then when the skirt coating wears off on the Mahles over time the engine is going to eat itself alive.