There is a problem I cannot figure out. After installing Hondata in my 2001 Accord F23 MT , the gauge cluster temp gauge no longer functions. Is there a fix for this ?

As I'm aware the gauge reads amperage , not voltage, fed by the OE ECM.The Hondata takes the sensors signal , and uses it ,but does not convert the signal out for the cluster temp gauge.

What fix is there for this? Currently an aftermarket temp gauge is in place.

The best I got so far to make it work....If I am right, and I always am.
G Car Trim Co. in Oregon , They remove the OEM temp gauge and inner workings from the gauge cluster housing. They replace it with top quality electronic Autometer tempurature gauge components. Then the new Autometer temp gauge in the OEM cluster responds to a voltage, normal, line signal.

Could it be that the adapter harness from OBD2B to OBD1 for the Hondata has no fed wire for the Temperature gauge? That I only need to continue the wire to a feed wire on the original OBD2B harness?

 

Does your Hondata unit see the ECT readings? If it does, then I would say that the harness does not have the output wire for the gauge cluster.

If Hondata does not have an output for the temp gauge, you could try tapping into the ECT sensor wire and running it directly to the gauge cluster or loop it into the Temp Gauge pin the OBD2B harness connector. The sensors are thermistors so it works by amperage change not voltage change as required by the cluster. I don't think there is any conditioning done by the OE ECU before the signal is sent to the gauge cluster. I could be wrong though, I haven't worked on a 6th gen in years. As long as it's 5v and not 12v you should be good to go.

 

Yes , the hondata ECM see the temp data and reacts properly, the cluster only does not.

That is wierd, this information came from this forum site.

"I finally found how each gauge circuit works, and the differences between the 98-99 accords, the 00-02 accords, and the preludes. And just as the circuit maps told me, the main diffence is where the signal is sent first.

Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge (’98-’99)
The engine coolant temperature gauge has two
intersecting coils wound around a permanent magnet
rotor. Voltage applied to the coils, through fuse 9 (in
driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box), generates a
magnetic field. The magnetic field, controlled by the
coolant temperature sending unit, causes the rotor to
rotate and the gauge needle to move. As the
resistance in the sending unit varies, current through
the gauge coils changes, moving the gauge needle
toward the coil with the strongest magnetic field.
The coolant temperature sending unit’s resistance
varies from about 137 ohms at low engine coolant
temperature to between 30-46 ohms at high
temperature.

Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge (’00-’02)
The engine coolant temperature gauge has two
intersecting coils wound around a permanent
magnet rotor. Voltage applied to the coils, through
fuse 9 (in driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box),
generates a magnetic field. The magnetic field,
controlled by the ECM or PCM causes the rotor to
rotate and the gauge needle to move. As the ECM
or PCM varies the current, current through the
gauge coils changes, moving the gauge needle
toward the coil with the strongest magnetic field.


Coolant Temperature '95 Prelude
With the ignition switch in ON () or START (),
voltage is applied through fuse 13 and the fuel and
engine coolant temperature gauges. The gauge
circuit is grounded at G402.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) gauge is
divided into 7 separate segments. The number of
segments that light up depends on the input from
the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sending unit.
The sending unit’s resistance varies from about 142
ohms at low engine temperature to between 49 and
32 ohms at high temperature (radiator fan running).

It's measuring current, (amps). Normally ecus work on very low amperage, as to keep heat down. So I bet the amperage being sent to the gauges is lower in the 00-02 models than the 98-99s' sending unit is sending to the gauges. The 98-99s and the preludes are very similar execpt for the resistances in the sending units, and the prelude has a digital dash . Other than that they work the same way.

But , you Ghost accord are a contributing forumite if I do say so. Edit ok , yes.
Perhaps this post went un corrected, and I am repeating his error , if he actually means voltage instead of amps. but it states amps.

Yes Hondata reads the temp signal, and there is voltage at the sensor..

I personally think it is a junction Pin that hits the ecm and then up to the cluster temp gauge, but I cannot find it. The wire harness goes down behind the dash and through / by the horn relay. From there possibly multiplexed? Back probing at any spot shows no voltage on the DVOM. Plugging the Oem ECM back in and presto it works.

5 Volt
Yellow / Green wire
ECM connector C24 although some sources are coming up C26 ECT I used C24.
Gauge connector C2

It should be a one wire fix , the yellow and green one.
Get the signal to the cluster.
I turned it into a pile of useless data and a bunch of spaghetti.

I'm fighting the Cola Wars , or something, Pepsi One Coke Zero.

 

Adding a jumper sadly did not bring the temp gauge to life.

Follow up.

Redline gauge works , porvides a service to Fix my problem. They remove the factory temp gauge in the cluster and replace the internal unit with autometer type stepper motor system . They match the stepper motor to the gauge face needle range and calibrate it stored in a chip. The Cluster fits back in and reads on a separate external input lead. Takes a separate M10x1 or 1/8 NPT temp sensor that is commonly fit able in the coolant system somewhere. Presto $230 and fixed. Hondata on my Accord with Factory cluster, all gauges working.