Hi all,

I'm in the middle of swapping the oil pan on my 2000 ex and I'm getting confused by the instructions in the service manual.

So it says "Apply liquid gasket to the shaded areas". The shaded areas in the diagram look like it wants me to put liquid gasket *on* the rubber gasket, but the written instructions say "to the center of the mating surface". Do I put it on the gasket, under the gasket, to either side of the gasket...?

Also it says "apply liquid gasket to the inner thread of the bolt holes". I assume this just means I need to squirt some into the bolt holes?

I'm using hondabond HT btw, which is one of the two recommended ones to use.

 

Of course this is all moot if I can't get the old oil pan off >:/

Edit: got it off! However there is a pile of orange silicone gunk I need to clean off. Any tips for getting it off of the surface between the flywheel and rearmost bearing?

 

please show instructions.

 

Here you go

It looks like they just copy-pasted the instructions from other oil pan installations where it makes more sense (because they use a flat gasket instead of a rubber seal that fits in a groove).

 

Myself... I just did mine. Carefully remove that rubber seal out of its grove, being careful not to have it split or break on ya. (If it does, just pick one up at a part store).... myself... I used grey silicone in a tube. I used the screw-on applicator tip it comes with, snipping 2 sections off of the end of it. Run a bead all the way around the pan "INSIDE" of the rubber seal grove. After you're done with that, take your finger all the way around it smoothing it down inside the groove. Whipe all the excess off that did NOT go into the groove, or it may not let the pan tighten all the way down when you put the pan back on.
I've done this on all mine and have never had an oil leak afterwards.

FORGOT TO ADD!!!!!

Let the silicone DRY OVER NIGHT FIRST!! Once it's dry... THEN put the gasket back on and install the oil pan. It's kinda like doubling the thickness of your gasket.

 

It occurs to me that since the surface on the block that it mates with is flat, if I put it on top of the gasket it will actually get squeezed off to either side, so putting it on top of the gasket actually makes a little bit of sense.

Putting it on the inside of the rubber gasket does make sense however what makes me nervous about that is the idea of a piece of it coming off and clogging the oil pickup. Obviously not a huge concern if I don't use too much!

 

I can't see the img.

 

Got it installed, no leaks so far, knock on wood! (still waiting to get the garage back from my roommate's miata so I can reinstall the A-pipe and start driving the car again)

 

For anyone else who's doing this job: The iFixit "black stick" spudger is actually really awesome for scraping RTV/silicone off of aluminum surfaces. It's long and skinny with a reasonably sharp edge and made of hard nylon that can really dig that silicone off but isn't hard enough to scratch aluminum.

 

Not sure why but there's actually a rubber gasket that goes there. Oh well...

 

hey, I know its been 3 years. But where did you end up putting the sealant? I’m looking to swap my y7 pan for a y8 since I feel like y8 seal better. Don’t worry, I already know its going to fit, I just want to know where you ended up putting the sealant and how much of it? I’m also tempted to go the route that another person said to basically put a thin bead around the groove to make the gasket stick up more.

 

Hash marks on oil pan illustration show where to apply HondaBond.

 

i get that, but its vague on wether it should be sealant:gasket or gasket:sealant. I know some people have done sealant:gasket:sealant, but I’ve tried that and I don’t recommend it. I know it should go on those spots, but some people say to go all around other don’t even use it. I just don’t want to deal with a leak anytime soon.

 

Absolutely nothing vague about the instructions. Clean oil from all mating surfaces. You need to purchase a new rubber gasket, which fits into the oil pan channel. Then apply HondaBond (available at dealership or Amazon) at the indicated locations. You also MUST torque the nuts and bolts in proper order with a torque wrench exactly as described. There's more to know so read the entire document carefully.

I have followed the service manual instructions for this specific job many times, and I never had an oil leak.

 

They sell a rubber gasket, that is what needs to be used. You only apply the hondabond to the sharp corners on the pan that faces the transmission. This method is also used on the valve cover gasket as well.

 

i don’t think you’re understanding my question. Okay, on a y7, the gasket is flat. On a y8, the gasket is round and the pan has a groove for the gasket to fit into. On a y7 you put sealant on the corners where the oil pan curves downward, and apply the gasket. Simple. Now, my question is, on a y8, should I follow the same procedure of applying sealant in the indicated channels and then put the gasket on top? Or does the gasket go first and then I should apply sealant to the shaded areas on the manual for a y8. I mean if you could be very detailed with how you would go about it, I’d appreciate it that. I don’t want to apply too much or too little.

 

I fully understood your question, and my detailed reply is exactly what you need to do.

 

I'm at the exact same point, I believe the confusion is that the FSM is a bit contradictory.
Step 1 we install the profile gasket on to the pan.
Step 2 has us applying Hondabond to the "engine block mating surface" of the pan in the shaded areas. However, the image for step 2 clearly shows the shaded areas to be A) beneath the profile gasket installed in groove during step one and B) not actually engine block mating as the bottom of the gasket groove will never make contact with block.

I'm assuming Hondabond is applied to the top of the profile gasket in shaded areas as described in Step 2. @muellersfan is this how you've done this in the past?
Thanks, S