Prelude 89 si turbo build: Is it necessary to sleeve for 250hp?
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Prelude 89 si turbo build: Is it necessary to sleeve for 250hp?
im looking to start my build and my goal is to make about 250 hp. i been going through forums and read that its a good idea to sleeve the block. since i dont intend to make high hp or run on track regularly should i still sleeve?
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Re: Prelude 89 si turbo build: Is it necessary to sleeve for 250hp?
Stock sleeves are fine for 250, even better if you have an H22A closed deck block (I doubt you do, but I'm not sure what Ludes came with stock).
Friend had a street driven, street tuned H22A closed deck block with a 5558 running about 300->350WHP. Never had any issues after we had it installed and tuned, but he sold it after a few months (he's mostly a diesel truck guy, I was amazed I somehow got him to buy that Lude in the first place). Unfortunate because it was running very well on a pretty basic setup, so was curious how it would play out long term.
Edit: You do not have an H engine. Whoops.
Friend had a street driven, street tuned H22A closed deck block with a 5558 running about 300->350WHP. Never had any issues after we had it installed and tuned, but he sold it after a few months (he's mostly a diesel truck guy, I was amazed I somehow got him to buy that Lude in the first place). Unfortunate because it was running very well on a pretty basic setup, so was curious how it would play out long term.
Edit: You do not have an H engine. Whoops.
Last edited by Chance EG; Sep 28, 2017 at 04:23 AM.
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Re: Prelude 89 si turbo build: Is it necessary to sleeve for 250hp?
He probably has that weird b20a5 that has nothing in common with the other b series engines. The prelude didn't get H series engines until the 4th gen, in 1992.
That said, the B20a# are closed deck aluminum blocks with "thicker than average iron sleeves", so the sleeves should be fine at 250whp, no clue about the rods and pistons though...
That said, the B20a# are closed deck aluminum blocks with "thicker than average iron sleeves", so the sleeves should be fine at 250whp, no clue about the rods and pistons though...
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Re: Prelude 89 si turbo build: Is it necessary to sleeve for 250hp?
I guess I'm the guy to chime in here for sure haha (read my sig below).
You definitely do not need to sleeve for 250hp. I'm at 410whp 385tq currently with the stock cylinders bored 2.5mm over, and zero issues now like that for several years daily driven, daily abused, and frequently raced.
nobody knows what the stock rods are capable of. I'd guess around 250. the stock pistons are the weakest link in these motors, and they shatter ringlands like clockwork right around 235tq no matter how conservative or aggressive the tune is.
my personal engine consists of oem h23a1 rods, custom JE pistons, sealed power rings, and acl race bearings all around. Top end is stock with the exception of supertech valve springs for the h22, and supertech valve seals. My suggestion is you copy this setup. I also have ARp head studs and a cometic HG, but you won't need those for 250hp. just torque the head bolts a little tighter to 60-65 ft/lbs and your hg will be fine as long as the block and head aren't warped too badly currently.
Oh, also, for pistons, you can just get standard off the shelf pistons for our motors from wiseco, from raceeng dot com
If you want beefier rods, youc an do that too, but they're pretty pricey and usually require having the block notched to fit them. oem h23a1 rods are a direct drop in with zero modification. they are identical dimensions as our rods, but much thicker and stronger, just not quite as thick as aftermarket rods. they also still have the oil squirter holes whereas aftermarket rods will not have those
You definitely do not need to sleeve for 250hp. I'm at 410whp 385tq currently with the stock cylinders bored 2.5mm over, and zero issues now like that for several years daily driven, daily abused, and frequently raced.
nobody knows what the stock rods are capable of. I'd guess around 250. the stock pistons are the weakest link in these motors, and they shatter ringlands like clockwork right around 235tq no matter how conservative or aggressive the tune is.
my personal engine consists of oem h23a1 rods, custom JE pistons, sealed power rings, and acl race bearings all around. Top end is stock with the exception of supertech valve springs for the h22, and supertech valve seals. My suggestion is you copy this setup. I also have ARp head studs and a cometic HG, but you won't need those for 250hp. just torque the head bolts a little tighter to 60-65 ft/lbs and your hg will be fine as long as the block and head aren't warped too badly currently.
Oh, also, for pistons, you can just get standard off the shelf pistons for our motors from wiseco, from raceeng dot com
If you want beefier rods, youc an do that too, but they're pretty pricey and usually require having the block notched to fit them. oem h23a1 rods are a direct drop in with zero modification. they are identical dimensions as our rods, but much thicker and stronger, just not quite as thick as aftermarket rods. they also still have the oil squirter holes whereas aftermarket rods will not have those
Last edited by motoxxxman; Oct 3, 2017 at 04:43 PM.
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Re: Prelude 89 si turbo build: Is it necessary to sleeve for 250hp?
I guess I'm the guy to chime in here for sure haha (read my sig below).
You definitely do not need to sleeve for 250hp. I'm at 410whp currently with the stock cylinders bored 2.5mm over, and zero issues now like that for several years daily driven, daily abused, and frequently raced.
nobody knows what the stock rods are capable of. I'd guess around 250. the stock pistons are the weakest link in these motors, and they shatter ringlands like clockwork right around 235tq no matter how conservative or aggressive the tune is.
my personal engine consists of oem h23a1 rods, custom JE pistons, sealed power rings, and acl race bearings all around. Top end is stock with the exception of supertech valve springs for the h22, and supertech valve seals. My suggestion is you copy this setup. I also have ARp head studs and a cometic HG, but you won't need those for 250hp. just torque the head bolts a little tighter to 60-65 ft/lbs and your hg will be fine as long as the block and head aren't warped too badly currently.
Oh, also, for pistons, you can just get standard off the shelf pistons for our motors from wiseco, from raceeng dot com
If you want beefier rods, youc an do that too, but they're pretty pricey and usually require having the block notched to fit them. oem h23a1 rods are a direct drop in with zero modification. they are identical dimensions as our rods, but much thicker and stronger, just not quite as thick as aftermarket rods. they also still have the oil squirter holes whereas aftermarket rods will not have those
You definitely do not need to sleeve for 250hp. I'm at 410whp currently with the stock cylinders bored 2.5mm over, and zero issues now like that for several years daily driven, daily abused, and frequently raced.
nobody knows what the stock rods are capable of. I'd guess around 250. the stock pistons are the weakest link in these motors, and they shatter ringlands like clockwork right around 235tq no matter how conservative or aggressive the tune is.
my personal engine consists of oem h23a1 rods, custom JE pistons, sealed power rings, and acl race bearings all around. Top end is stock with the exception of supertech valve springs for the h22, and supertech valve seals. My suggestion is you copy this setup. I also have ARp head studs and a cometic HG, but you won't need those for 250hp. just torque the head bolts a little tighter to 60-65 ft/lbs and your hg will be fine as long as the block and head aren't warped too badly currently.
Oh, also, for pistons, you can just get standard off the shelf pistons for our motors from wiseco, from raceeng dot com
If you want beefier rods, youc an do that too, but they're pretty pricey and usually require having the block notched to fit them. oem h23a1 rods are a direct drop in with zero modification. they are identical dimensions as our rods, but much thicker and stronger, just not quite as thick as aftermarket rods. they also still have the oil squirter holes whereas aftermarket rods will not have those
Wow that is a lot of over bore on stock sleeves plus boost. I guess what I read about them being thicker than usual was right.
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fullerpd
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Mar 15, 2012 05:10 PM