valve seal replacement

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Old Sep 15, 2017 | 11:00 AM
  #1  
MTswisher's Avatar
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Default valve seal replacement

What's up everybody!


So I'm throwing together a 90 Civic hatchback with a stock 1.5 (for now &#128512

Bought the car for $50 with a bad trans & TIRED motor. Picked up a engine/trans for $100 that has a leaking head

Got a Misumo head gasket & timing kit off eBay . I have done the head WP &belt many times but I have never messed with valves. The kit included new seals so I might as well replace em before I install the engine in the vehicle.
I'm having trouble finding a thorough write up on the seal replacement. I've been watching videos and am confident that I can do the seals themself but I'm unsure on disassembly of rocker arms cam ect...
Will I need to readjust valves or anything like that? Any insight or a link to a complete write up would be AWESOME!!

Need to get this car running before the snow flies! My truck just threw a rod and I have 2 children to get to school and what not

Thanks
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 08:52 AM
  #2  
SonicC's Avatar
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Default Re: valve seal replacement

What engine? Can you post a pic of valve train?
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Old Sep 23, 2017 | 06:15 PM
  #3  
browngrasscat's Avatar
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From: Sussex Upon Kent
Default Re: valve seal replacement

You should adjust the valves even if you weren't doing all the other stuff. Being realistic, the last and first (only) time the valves were adjusted on most Hondas was in Suzuka (maybe Ohio if its newer).
Past that, if you have the head off, you did most of the work.
the rocker shafts, they have a similar tightening sequence as the head bolts (reverse it for loosening). Keep it all in order, things "wear in" over time and don't like being mixed up.
Get a C-type valve spring compressor with an extension < $30 eBay, harbor freight, $175 from snap on, doesn't matter). The squeeze and turn deal they sell at most parts stores will work on a soho d-series (will NOT work on most dohc any series) but it's a pain.
Get a pen sized magnet from the parts store you didn't get the clamp from to collect the "locks"
clean everything well
pretty self explanatory, if you googled it already you get the idea.
KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER BY LOCATION
if you choose to remove the valves, hit the ends where the locks and retainer sits with some emery cloth as the smacking around for a quarter century could cause a burr that could scratch the part of the head the stem travels in (whatever that's called) and could cause a leak. Note "could".
might want to lap the valves for good measure.
keep it clean, lube everything more than you think it needs to be
assembly lube is a thing, oil is more cost effective. It's kinda of a solid lifter (no lifters, same idea) so yes, you will want to adjust the valves.
i think it's time to call in a night. I have the same head torn apart on my bench right now, but I'm hoping my donor car will just show up in the driveway so all I've done is strip it and clean it
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