Hey guys

hey guys i wanted to change my rear brake pads on my 96 accord ex w/ abs. I have done brake jobs before but (not on this car and not with abs ) I have and read my Chilton repair manual but it does not mention anything about what type of brake pads I should get for daily driving . Should i get metalic, semi metalic,or organic . Also the front brakes on the car still has alot on meat on them , should i change them anyways or just the rear.

 

go to honda, and buy OEM honda pads. Those are best for daily drivers

 

OEM pads are good, but for a cheaper price you can buy the AEM pads which are made by Nissin who makes oem pads.

Honestly, for even cheaper Wagner makes some good replacement pads for around $25-30 a set. The rears don't get used much anyway.

 

Get semi-metallic. Organics suck and fade easily. Metallics chew up rotors faster.

Edit: Oem will perform the best for a daily driving application. That's probably why they are OEM.


[Modified by Stew Pidasso, 3:13 PM 11/11/2002]

 

our cars use very little rear brake bias, just purchase a cheap set of pads and spend the better money on the front, you will never get the rear brakes to heat up to fade, regardless of pad material, on the street

if you need more detailed info talk to Andie Lin at Cobalt. He has been my brake guy for several years now and will not send you astray. I will send him this way to respond here.

 

thanks for all your posts ,so should i replace the fronts too they have alot of meat on them still .....they look new

 

nope

 

broke down and whent to the dealer and got the rear nissin brake pads $63 god this things are getting expensive. good thing im changing the brakes and not the dealer. thanks again all
much for this forum


[Modified by 96accordex, 2:25 PM 11/11/2002]

 

Well sh**, hey guys need some help again.


well like I seid I earlyer I got the brake pads, i made sure the ebrake was disingaged , made sure i put a rag next to the brake fluid resover tank so no fluid would still when i pushed in the piston ,o.k so i got the wheel off, and got the caliper body off , before i did any thing else i got all the finger prints off the disc with a disc brake degreser, so next i put a caliper spredder and tryied to push it back in but was not able too. im using all my power too push it in but the stupid thing will not move back in . is there a step that i missed why ....why ..... why.... will the piston not move back in .

 

You must turn and push. The piston has a big + on it. Stick a big screw driver in there or something else big and flat that will give you leverage. Once you get it to turn, push as well.

 

thanks , wont be beat.


the piston does have a + shape to it not holow like the front calipers . it there a special tool i can buy, if so where would be the best place to get it, can i get it at a local autozone's .

 

What about EBC Green Stuff?

 

What about them?

 

No tool. Just make sure the cap to the master cylinder is off, get a nice thick chisle or big screw driver or even plyers, grip that thing, and turn it. Once it starts to move, it will be easier.

 

i had the EBC greens on the front. they dusted like mad and weren't all that great when the extra heat b/c of their higher friction coefficient warped the hell outta my rotors. wouldn't buy them again... ever.

 

There is a special tool that you can buy at a local autoparts store!!!

 

alright guys got the piston to retract and was able to put the rear pads on . I used some toung & groove pliers to drip the piston and turn clockwise, i was really carefull not to pinch the piston boot. when i got close to the boot i used a flat-head screwdriver to finish the job. thanks to every one who came to my aid.