I got a 92 ex coupe and my timing was like 60 degrees too advanced so i moved my dizzy as far as i could to rad. My timing is 22 degrees BTDC. Still too advanced by 7 degrees. Dizzy wont turn anymore. What can i do? A mechanic replaced my timing belt 8 months ago. Do i have him fix this. Or is there something i can do to easily fix this. If it requires the amount of work to replace timing belt then i opt out and will get mechanic to fix this.

 

60° Advanced?
And it ran?
Did you check timing with the SCS connector jumped, engine fully heated up and at the correctt idle speed?
#1 cylinder is farthest away from the distributor.

 

Is the distributor OEM?

 

Yes it is. I changed out the icm module in it about 9 months ago. Can an obd1 car change it's timing on its own? If it can't then it is my mechanics fault.

 

Yes, Yes, yes, yes and yes.

 

OBD1 cannot. It's fixed and does not reference a "crank position sensor" like the OBD2 motors do.

I would go on limb to say that the ICM module is either going bad again. I've read about your exact symptoms when non-OEM distributor components are used. Worthwhile checking in with your mechanic.

 

Internal ICM was replaced right before mechanic did timing belt. I replaced that myself. The dizzy is oem. I would say my mechanic didn't align the timing belt properly. RIght now the best it will adjust is to 21 btdc +or-2. 6 degrees too advanced. If anything i would like it maybe slightly retarded as i drive like grandma.

 

Being a '92 you are checking your timing at the flywheel/driveplate(flexplate) correct?

If so there is a simple way to verify if the timing belt is installed correctly.
Put the distributor back to where it was originally, this will be about middle of where the adjustment slot is.
Remove #1 spark plug and install an 18" long clean wood dowel would work. Just something that is smooth, clean and will not damage or leave debris in the chamber.
Rotate the engine by hand, counter clockwise when looking at the crankpulley, to TDC(white) notch mark white(loosen other spark plugs to remove compression pressure, it will make turning the engine over easier). Honda F/H engines run 'backwards' compared to other engines including newer Honda K series.
While rotating the crank, watch the dowel/extension to stop moving up, if the dowel is still moving up even when you have reached TDC, keep rotating until it stops moving up. At TDC the dowel should not be moving up nor down. Mark the dowel at TDC and even BDC and verify that you do indeed have the crank at either position fully.

If the crank mark is true and the piston is at TDC, the distributor rotor should be pointing either to #1 or #4 tower on the distributor cap(firing order 1-3-4-2). Being a full firing order rotation requires 720° of crank rotation as the camshaft/distributor rotates at half speed(360°).

If the crank is not aligned with the TDC notch(white) mark on the flywheel, then the flywheel may have been installed incorrectly in the past. This is fairly hard to do as the bolt pattern for the flywheel/driveplate bolt pattern would only allow for all bolts to be installed in one clocking. If it were installed incorrectly at least two bolts would not be used. But people have done stranger things.

TDC pointer is a two part piece. It should have a '>' and '<' that when aligned places the tip of the pointer in the middle of the 'V' which gives you the correct eyesight angle to watch for true TDC alignment. Sometimes the pointer may be damaged/bent or one half, the tip or the 'V', could be missing.

If the dowel indicates TDC while the timing marker on the flywheel notch(white) lines up then it is a timing belt problem.

 

I agree with the above, confirm mechanical timing is correct. Being off a tooth can cause this situation too.