Mattvivsound's B20-VTEC on "Pump" gas-part selection
This is just the planning stages of an engine build, winter project.
I currently have a ‘99 Civic with a B20B swapped in it and I’m looking to squeeze some more out of the motor. I haven’t done much work to the engine yet as I am still trying to plan out what I want to do with the engine in terms on mods; also I don’t want to invest into Non-VTEC parts and not be able to use them when moving to a VTEC head. I do have some goals in mind; like keeping my car as daily driver, but being able to go out road racing a few times a year for fun. Being a DD I want to keep it on regular/premium pump gas (87-92 Octane), the closest E85 or High Octane is an hour away.
My Goals:I’d like to keep the B20 block and I’ve been looking at the B16 head.
HP: 200-225 hp (wheels)
TQ: 150-175 lf-ft (wheels)
Redline/Rev Limit: 8000-8500 rpms.
Budget: $3000. Any more than that, I’d look at getting a JDM ITR B18C and I’d be happy.
I’m ready to change out pistons, cams, valvetrain and etc parts.
What Comp Ratio should I aim for?
Knowing my goals; how would you build my motor?
I currently have a ‘99 Civic with a B20B swapped in it and I’m looking to squeeze some more out of the motor. I haven’t done much work to the engine yet as I am still trying to plan out what I want to do with the engine in terms on mods; also I don’t want to invest into Non-VTEC parts and not be able to use them when moving to a VTEC head. I do have some goals in mind; like keeping my car as daily driver, but being able to go out road racing a few times a year for fun. Being a DD I want to keep it on regular/premium pump gas (87-92 Octane), the closest E85 or High Octane is an hour away.
My Goals:I’d like to keep the B20 block and I’ve been looking at the B16 head.
HP: 200-225 hp (wheels)
TQ: 150-175 lf-ft (wheels)
Redline/Rev Limit: 8000-8500 rpms.
Budget: $3000. Any more than that, I’d look at getting a JDM ITR B18C and I’d be happy.
I’m ready to change out pistons, cams, valvetrain and etc parts.
What Comp Ratio should I aim for?
Knowing my goals; how would you build my motor?
Last edited by mattvivsound; Sep 6, 2017 at 03:16 PM.
That's a big budget so you can do this.
I've had no problem running 12.5:1 compression on pump gas, it's all about bleeding down compression with enough overlap in the cam. My latest honda is about 13:5:1, I'll do a pump gas update later, not so sure myself.
If you are dead-set on doing this you need a cam, valvesprings, pistons with reliefs in them. May as well get some lightweight rods with arp bolts because it all fits in the budget. Of course a free flow exh and air filter big enough to support the build.
I've had no problem running 12.5:1 compression on pump gas, it's all about bleeding down compression with enough overlap in the cam. My latest honda is about 13:5:1, I'll do a pump gas update later, not so sure myself.
If you are dead-set on doing this you need a cam, valvesprings, pistons with reliefs in them. May as well get some lightweight rods with arp bolts because it all fits in the budget. Of course a free flow exh and air filter big enough to support the build.
I'd personally go with a slightly milder CR since you'll still be on the stock sleeves. Still aim for 11.5:1 -> 12:1. Pro1 cams and complementing valvetrain would be a good choice.
Definitely invest in some forged rods, ARP rod bolts, and get a block girdle PROPERLY machined and installed. Any remaining cash I'd spend on bolt ons (I/H/E). This should net you right around 200WHP and be reliable as hell if properly assembled/tuned.
What transmission are you using?
Definitely invest in some forged rods, ARP rod bolts, and get a block girdle PROPERLY machined and installed. Any remaining cash I'd spend on bolt ons (I/H/E). This should net you right around 200WHP and be reliable as hell if properly assembled/tuned.
What transmission are you using?
Lots of good advice so far, dont forget to factor in costs for tuning. If you want to save some money there have been lots of great results with the lower cost 84.5mm YCP 12-5-1 compression Pistons and stock rods with arp rod bolts combo. If you don't want to rev past 8500 it might be a good option and all the power is going to be found in the head and a good intake setup plus header and no cat plus 3" exhaust not to be overlooked.
Lots of good advice so far, dont forget to factor in costs for tuning. If you want to save some money there have been lots of great results with the lower cost 84.5mm YCP 12-5-1 compression Pistons and stock rods with arp rod bolts combo. If you don't want to rev past 8500 it might be a good option and all the power is going to be found in the head and a good intake setup plus header and no cat plus 3" exhaust not to be overlooked.
YCP pistons are a great idea, and yeah don't skimp on the tune. If you don't have a tuneable ECU you'll need to account for that as well.
If OP is on an LS transmission though I'd just recommend selling the entire setup you have and getting the ITR swap though, like mentioned in the original post.
I currently have the LS trans, but was planning on getting a B16 Trans.
I do plan on getting a Hondata S300-V3 system and getting it Tuned. But I'm actually planning on doing the Hondata sooner than the engine build.
I do plan on getting a Hondata S300-V3 system and getting it Tuned. But I'm actually planning on doing the Hondata sooner than the engine build.
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