Hello all, please bear with me as the info about problem is second hand. As my wife was leaving gym her Accord wouldn't start ( 2000 Honda Accord SE 6cyl) after a few tries it started and she made her way to do an errand no signs of anything abnormal at this point (other than the previously mentioned occurrence). My wife left the store and that's when she noticed the thread title occurring no speedometer or rpm reading (needle stayed at the resting position) and when she finally got home this is what I've noticed/tried so far.
1. Checked batt cables for corrosion, loose connection etc
2. Tested fuses on driver side under dash, all good
3. Getting ready to disconnect battery and check grounds will update in a bit.
I apologize if this issues already been posted on prior threads but I'm short on time when I can semi diagnose before I leave for work and make arrangements

 

The odometer signal comes from a different sensor than the speedometer signal so I am guessing something is wrong with the connections on the back of the gauge cluster inside the dash. It is not a really big job to take the covers off and remove the gauge cluster from the dash. I have done it on a 2000 SE accord. You can probably find a YouTube video on how to do it. Or, you can subscribe to www.alldatadiy.com for about $30 and get the exact manufacturers procedure for you exact car.

 

That is not accurate.

 

Speedometer and Odometer
The odometer and speedometer drive circuits
receive pulses from the PCM. The pulse rate
increases as the car accelerates. The frequency
and duration of these input pulses are measured
and displayed by the speedometer, odometer, and
tripmeter.

On the automatics, the speedometer circuit gets the pulses from the PCM; which it reads from the output shaft speed sensor (aka countershaft speed sensor).

First take a look at the connector to the Countershaft Speed Sensor on the transmission; any issues with the wires or connector there?


If you have a multimeter/voltmeter and wanted to do some test if you see no obvious issues with the wires at the Countershaft Speed Sensor or PCM:

The signal from terminal pin A9 (Blu/Wht wire) of the PCM to check for are voltage pulses. The voltage should pulse between 0 and to about 5V or more.

The pulse rate increases as the car accelerates. The frequency and duration of these input pulses are measured and displayed by the speedometer.

1. Put the vehicle in neutral with the ignition switch ON (II).

2. Slowly rotate (over 3 mph (2 km/h)) 1 wheel with the other wheel blocked.

You should see voltage pulses.

If there are no pulses at pin A9 at the PCM, with the front wheel spinning, inspect the other connectors to ensure they are firmly connected and terminals and wiring okay at the PCM.

PCM may possibly be faulty if the other PCM connectors are okay.

Another test would be to test pin D10 (Blu wire) at the PCM. This is the blu wire coming from the countershaft speed sensor. With ignition switch ON (II), and front wheels rotating, there should be pulses coming into the PCM.

Pin D10 is at PCM Connector D.

Access to PCM is under the center console. Remove a clip holding the carpet near there and peel back the carpet for access.

 

Alrighty, thanks everyone for their quick responses, I have an update sort of lol. I had to jump it to get it cranked, left the car running for a few mins, and i went to turn the headlights on and it started to conk out so i turned them back off, did it again to make sure it wasnt jist a random rough idle (the car has seen better days, and is coming up on 300k on odometer) and the car started to conk again. So i left lights off, and attempted to back the car up, as i pressed the brake to take it out of gear it completely conked out. I tried to restart car, and it just did the rapid clicking like it would if battery was dead, although no interior lights dimmed. The battery is 6 months old if that. What are yalls thoughts?

 

Get the alternator and battery checked out. A failing alternator can cause issues you've described with the gauges and also where the battery does not get fully charged.

Go to an auto parts store like Autozone, O'reillys, etc. and get the battery and alternator tested for free. This way you can try to rule out the problem as related to the alternator and/or battery. This wouldn't cost you anything other than a little time.