I replaced my oil pan gasket with a myhondahabit one with no stud kit and i used a morroso 4qt pan i torqued them to 100 inch pounds and did a criss cross sequence and dabbed hondabond in the corners it is sweating out and really pissing me off my quest ion is should a remove the bolts and retorque them with a better torque wrenchnin the sequence in the book is it really that neccesary to do it 100% that way

 

If everything is properly torqued give it some time, the MyHondaHabit gasket expands when it comes into contact with oil so there's a good chance that it will stop leaking after a bit.

 

It looks like all on the bottom of the gasket i can see a very small space where it seems to be sweating out the top is perfectly flat and is sealed with the block is it possible i installed this gasket upside down

 

No, it will only fit on one way, you'd have to bend it so much that it breaks to get it on there upside down. It's extremely easy to warp oil pan flanges with the factory gasket since it's so soft, if your oil pan flange is warped then you just have to wait a while and see if the gasket expands enough to fill the gaps. How long has the gasket been on the car?

 

I did the job on saturday and i ran the car hard yesterday when it seemed to seep the most and i did put a brand new oil pan on as well

 

Where is it leaking from?

 

Where the pan meets the gasket not where the gasket meets the block

 

Dunno what to tell you. Might want to take back off and ensure everything is leveled

 

i have a few ideas. Its possible the moroso pan is defective and not flat. Its possible that the torque sequence i did was not able to seal it. I will check the torque and see if they losened up i get alot of vibration on this car.

 

my moroso pan that i ordered in 2009 was warped at the lip for the gasket. I just went back to the oem pan. I would recommend doing that or at least waiting to see if the gasket expands more. As mentioned above.

 

it came like that brand new?

 

i went with the stud kit, it's worth it imho.
it took several months of re-torquing
every few weeks before
things sealed up properly.
oil all over the place doesnt help lol.
one of the threads on the front of
the block stripped out so had to use a
tapered 11mm bolt left over from garage door
install. wtf? used moroso pan too, seems to
work ok.now you can get the honda gs-r
part for the same price on ebay so i'd do that unless you have turbo
plans.

 

i might try ordering a stud kit and doing the job again maybe with a oem one if i cant reuse the hondahabit one i heard alot of negatives about the moroso pan but i work with big hp v8s and we always run moroso pans no problem. Whats the best way without stud removers to take out the old honda studs

 

Thread 2 nuts onto the stud, tighten them into each other, and use a ratchet or wrench to remove it. After it's out, back the nuts apart and thread them off. The stud kit is nice to have but that's about it, they won't do much beyond make it easier to install and look nice.

Unless it's absolutely gushing oil I'd wait a few weeks and see if it stops leaking.

 

I wouldent even care being this is just a throwaway ls but its getting on the exhaust and im worried about the fire hazard. Is it possible the myhondahabit gasket is not compatable with the moroso pan

 

<br />bump i losened and retorqued all the bolts in the book order to 108inch lb this is deffinitly not a user error anybody else have feed back on morroso pans

 

Have you tried emailing the MyHondaHabit guys about compatibility with the moroso pan?

 

afaik all integra b series oil pan gaskets are same shape but rs/ls pans will for sure not fit gs-r or type-r.
had to ship one back on fleabay for refund. 8(

 

If you are re-using the 20yr+ old oil pan bolts/nuts, that can be your culprit, along with the Moroso oil pan.

 

the hardwares old but the threads are still fine and there tightning down today i replaced the my honda habot gasket with a rubber one and ran the car on jackstands to watch the leak and watched it seep out through the rubber so its deffinitly coming from the seal and its still leaking im out of ideas as to that this pan from moroso is defective funny part is most people complain about the bungs or the drain leaking nope those are dry my just wont seal at the most basic part

 

I went to replace the oil pan stud with the stud kit. One\ some of the bolt, while putting on a 2nd nut, to perform the double nut loosen trick, the studs would turn clockwise, meaning they were loose. The stud kit would go all way through on 2 of the holes next to the crankshaft pulley, so I had to use a M6x20 bolt laying around. The stud kit come with the ability to use an Allen key/torx bit. I'm not sure of the Allen key size, but it seems it's most likely 3mm (1/8"). I made sure to apply loctite blue after spraying the holes with degreaser (e.g. Brakleen) and cleaning them with a cotton sway/q-tip, and repeating with water in a spray bottle.

This may explain why I've had to do this project 6 times, in the past 5 years; one long oil change at this point...

I'm using myHondaHabit. Just a note, that these MHH gasket will essentially melt/weld itself to the oil pan but not the engine aluminum mating surface, thankfully. Point is, go on eBay and get a new oil pan for like $30 shipped before tackling this project, 'just in case'.

Consider using laquer thinner and a plastic scraper to remove old silicone gasket from the engine mating surface. Those plastic razor blades are useful for the 'small/tiny' stuff, and even then only last 12 scrapes, so be sure to have a big dedicate scraper on hand. Lacquer evaporates quickly like alcohol, so scrub right away with the scraper. Also make sure you have the proper PPE, including a basic N95 mask, full eye protection and latex gloves.

Finally, there's a brand of silicone called, 'the right stuff', sold by permatex, that supposedly take 3 hours, instead of 24 hours, to fully cure.

 

i know it sounds crazy but try adding some engine restore if there's room.
had the same beef for years.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Restore-000...0AAOSw6VVerMgt

 

I had the same issue as you with the loose studs near the crankshaft pulley and also ended just going back to the OEM bolts on that side. I didn't particularly like how the gasket "welded" itself to the pan...I ended up going back to the OEM gasket since my oil leak was the actual oil pump area itself.