After market strut doesnt fit
I had the left rear coilover spring break couple of days ago.(2004 crv lx).Went to Bond auto,gave them the info,bought Monroe quickstrut and proceeded to spend the next 7 hours in between thunder showers to remove the old and install the new.When slid into position,the bottom was almost two inches lower than it shoudve been.I was prepared to give it a little persuasion,but this was way off.Long story short,returned it,tried different parts stores that all came up with the same unit,which,upon comparison,has 1 more spring winding than the old one.Does anyone have any idea on the correct aftermarket part?171380L is the one that doesnt work.For what its worth,the Oem # is 52610-s9a-a041.
I've never installed struts before, but That definitely is a huge difference. Rock auto shows that part number as fitting, but they also list a Monroe 181380L as fitting, but it's their "economy" line. Maybe that'll fit?
Or its possible you're trying to install it incorrectly? Like I said - I've never installed struts but does the lower attachment point lower at all? Maybe you can pry it down? Persuasion, as you say. I had to do that for front sway bar links on my '02 CRV. J
Or its possible you're trying to install it incorrectly? Like I said - I've never installed struts but does the lower attachment point lower at all? Maybe you can pry it down? Persuasion, as you say. I had to do that for front sway bar links on my '02 CRV. J
I dont see anything I've missed.Jacked up under the designaged jack point,so the front end parts are hanging,top of strut fit up into its recess and bolted-not too tight.Called service departments in three different dealerships who said it should slide right in that way with maybe a little nudge.Parts guy said the same thing.Also checked a couple of youtube vids.To get it even close I would have to use a crowbar,and I've been working on my own cars long enough to know the difference between "little persuasion" and "get ready to spend more money".I also called a dealership to see what OEM would cost,and they said $400 for one,and it was on backorder unil they dont know when.The exact part I took out is discontinued,so I'm guessing theyre maybe waiting on whatever part supercedes or replaces it?I'm starting to feel like I'm on one of those hidden camera shows.Ss many of these things I see around,it shouldnt be that hard.
Personally I would use spring clams (strut off car) then then tie the bound springs with heavy duty cable ties, it should slide right on in then – Once in place and bolted up, it’s just a simple case of cutting the cable ties.
Kev
Kev
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Even as a complete assy (spring and shock) doesnt mean it will slide right in. Ive never replaced a strut that slid out and new one slid right in. Any time you disconnect a strut from a suspension, you will notice that it has tension on it. If you would have remove the strut/spring assy intact the orginal strut would be the same length lower then the mounting hole.
If you cant get a spring compressor in there, disconnect the lower balljoint, bolt in the strut and then jack up your lower control arm and reconnect the ball joint.
Or just use brute force or pry bars to get it in there.
The difference in length in your first pic is because the old strut shock is not full extended out. Look how much higher the spring seat is on the old one. If the original spring was intact the shock would be fully extended and they would be the same in length.
If you cant get a spring compressor in there, disconnect the lower balljoint, bolt in the strut and then jack up your lower control arm and reconnect the ball joint.
Or just use brute force or pry bars to get it in there.
The difference in length in your first pic is because the old strut shock is not full extended out. Look how much higher the spring seat is on the old one. If the original spring was intact the shock would be fully extended and they would be the same in length.
I only put up the pic of the two side by side to illustrate the different number of spring wi dings.Anyway,its in.Tried jacking up the other side too again and it brought both holes closer together.Still had to use a railroad bar a d chunks of two by four to make the fit.Plus the eyelet on the bottom of the strut wasnt square to slide in between the mount.Interesting,doing all that by myself.Thanks for the input.
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