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Map
Cut line I mentioned Does it maybe go to the tiny air filters on the cai and the valve cover? Timing chain cover and one tube of haeder. Looks like something is missing there to me. General picture of the intake. Anything obviously off? Mass airflow I think is behind the intake on the left side near the rubber connector with the 2 worm clamps.
Map sensor code(3 light flashes on ECU obd0 diagnostic). Si d16 5 speed car. Has cold air intake and a header with cat. I only saw one o2 sensor on one of the four tubes of the header not sure if there's another one farther down the pipe. I see one line cut. I'll try to add a photo. Thought it might have something to do with vacuum lines. Car runs super rich black smoke under any throttle. Idle fluctuates 700 to 1100. Misses at constant speed in high gear but under throttle it doesn't miss. Any ideas? Any information advice or thoughts are greatly appreciated joined the forums today thanks. First Honda don't know much about them.
the vacuum lines appear to be correct - code 3 for the MAP sensor is something amiss in the electrical connection to the MAP, not vacuum - vacuum problem with the MAP would result in a code 5 - the MAP sensor is on the firewall where the #21 hose is connected - your car doesn't have a Mass Airflow Sensor - the item on the back of the intake manifold next to the throttle body is the Electronic Air Control Valve (EACV) which controls the idle - if it was not working properly, you would get a code 14
check out the wiring for the MAP
looks like it has a broken stud that holds the header on - remove the piece still in the head (it screws out) and install a new stud
fluctuating idle can be caused by a number of things besides the EACV - PCV valve not functioning correctly, low coolant level, vacuum leak somewhere, are things that are most likely
Thank you I didn't know the difference between code 3 and 5. A lot of useful information there. Greatly appreciated
Got a map sensor off parts car. Doesn't run rich anymore and runs way smoother no missing. I do idle high as hell now though up to 16-1700 rpms usually around 1400 sometimes 900-1000. Check engine light on and off hard to get it to come on and check the obd0. Also someone stripped the damn oil pan plug out what kit works good for retapping that? Should I get a self tapping? Gotta clean all the rubber **** they used to keep it from leaking off.
Got a map sensor off parts car. Doesn't run rich anymore and runs way smoother no missing. I do idle high as hell now though up to 16-1700 rpms usually around 1400 sometimes 900-1000. Check engine light on and off hard to get it to come on and check the obd0. Also someone stripped the damn oil pan plug out what kit works good for retapping that? Should I get a self tapping? Gotta clean all the rubber **** they used to keep it from leaking off.
the check engine light doesn't need to be on to check the codes - whenever you get a CEL, the ECU stores the code and it remains in the ECU until you physically remove it by cutting off power to the ECU by removing the Hazard/ECU fuse in the under hood fuse box - if you get another CEL, the ECU will store that code as well - when you turn off the ignition, the CEL will go off and remain off until another problem (could be the same problem again) triggers the CEL - whenever you get a CEL, you need to look at the ECU to see what the code is, fix the problem and then reset the ECU
best bet for stripped drain plug threads is to find another oil pan